Project Alternate

I'd say the blades are a little long, hard to tell without the rest of the build so may look alright later on..

Again, really liking the build and I'm sure you hate hearing it by now but good job so far!
 
looking interesting, will keep an eye on this one.

great job so far :)

Thanks ED209
:)

I'd say the blades are a little long, hard to tell without the rest of the build so may look alright later on..

Again, really liking the build and I'm sure you hate hearing it by now but good job so far!

Thanks Luke, I think they need a cutting down tbh, will wait until I have the desk painted or wrapped before I make a move :)

& no, compliments on the build help my confidence :D
 
This already looks incredible! Can't wait to see it finished.

I'd go with a dark grey or blue for colour :D

Thanks Andreas, been looking at some more wrap options, im now thinking about mat black wrap, it looks more like a very dark grey.
will order a small sample to check how it looks
 
I reckon if you just cut the vent blades straight across parallel to the hole they will look great.

Nice to see it shaping up so well.
 
I reckon if you just cut the vent blades straight across parallel to the hole they will look great.

Nice to see it shaping up so well.


Thanks mate, yeah going to play with them a bit more later in the build...



A quick mid week update for you,
Started work on the center shelf holder that I plan to also run the water tubing though,

The shape might change slightly later in the build when i have the 2x RES in place.

78_zpsyvxzeacb.jpg


79_zpspall4fje.jpg



Here it is in place, as you can see Iv also started to undercoat some parts, I started this now to see how well it would hold up & to help show imperfections.

80_zpsggdhbms6.jpg



You can see the parts I started to sand down, I have now given the desk 1 coat of MDF primer & 2 coats of white primer, sanding after every coat apart from the last one..
Whether I use a paint or go with wrap the surface will need to be sanded as good as possible. :(

81b_zpsze2nmno4.jpg


81_zpsiin3vz8k.jpg



Sanded down the speaker covers, not sure what colour Im going to use yet.

85_zpswticm7xd.jpg


Decided to make the cones for the front of the desk from clay lol, yes clay... thought why not, I need the practice for a later
none PC related mission :)

86_zpswxelrqm9.jpg


87_zpsnj9ftsbg.jpg



Its air dry clay, so my cats looking after it for me as its out in the sun for the day :)

88_zpssfnpnqx0.jpg



once it was hard enough I sanded them down to a better finish ready to prime & sand once more, I hate all the sanding :(

89_zpsifybhtzn.jpg


I also hollowed out the center to reduce the weight & cut some groves for the bracket.

90_zpsagd3q6rm.jpg



Thats all for now, I will try have more updates for you at the weekend.. :)
 
It's definitely unorthodox. I'm interested to see how the clay parts will turn out.

your wish is my command ;)


here they are fitted, still just the undercoat until the build is complete

20150411_155503_zpsssrng6po.jpg


the gap wont be there when fastened down,

20150412_203123_zpskx0mqahb.jpg
 
Looking good. I like how you opted for the various angular sections, even though in practice they are much more demanding than a paper exercise.
To get a good paint finish, which can be difficult on MDF, I apply a few coats of shellac to act as a filling primer and blinding coat. Any base paint finish can be used over this. Just a denibbing with 600 grit paper between coats will give you a very good finish. Triple application on cut edges if you are to leave them as cut. This MDF core is the most difficult to apply a paint finish to with any success.
Which leads to my next point: Why no edging?
I have built many different cabinets using MDF and always apply a solid timber edging, it makes for a better fixing surface and protects the vulnerable edge...The surface of MDF is very compact and has a good resistance to knocks, but this skin is on a few millimetres thick and the core gets softer towards the centre and lacks the baked toughness of the surface. Catch an edge here, and the surface layer can easily part company with the core..Not too important on a prototype, but could be a disaster on a finished design.
I most often use oak veneered MDF and make and apply solid oak edging and that combination really can take knocks.
Edging is applied with just PVA and cramps, screws, biscuit joints etc not ideal, may fix well but the board will swell at that point eventually.
Unaware of what machinery you have, only seen a table saw and router in the pics. but either of these could be used for another consideration: Rebates.
I host all my horizontal panels ( apart from the top) into rebates in the vertical panels, makes a neat gap free finish and gives greater gluing area on final build. Also makes it easier when constructing for a dry fitting run. assemble on its back lock span with a couple of cramps, or even web straps. and then sit it upright. Plus if you depend on screws for this stage it wears out the holes too much for final build.
Your desk looks well thought out and designed, the cuts show attention and detail and the use of alternatives such as clay show great resourcefulness in achieving what the designers eye sees.
Good luck to you, and most of all enjoy it!
 
Looking good. I like how you opted for the various angular sections, even though in practice they are much more demanding than a paper exercise.
To get a good paint finish, which can be difficult on MDF, I apply a few coats of shellac to act as a filling primer and blinding coat. Any base paint finish can be used over this. Just a denibbing with 600 grit paper between coats will give you a very good finish. Triple application on cut edges if you are to leave them as cut. This MDF core is the most difficult to apply a paint finish to with any success.
Which leads to my next point: Why no edging?
I have built many different cabinets using MDF and always apply a solid timber edging, it makes for a better fixing surface and protects the vulnerable edge...The surface of MDF is very compact and has a good resistance to knocks, but this skin is on a few millimetres thick and the core gets softer towards the centre and lacks the baked toughness of the surface. Catch an edge here, and the surface layer can easily part company with the core..Not too important on a prototype, but could be a disaster on a finished design.
I most often use oak veneered MDF and make and apply solid oak edging and that combination really can take knocks.
Edging is applied with just PVA and cramps, screws, biscuit joints etc not ideal, may fix well but the board will swell at that point eventually.
Unaware of what machinery you have, only seen a table saw and router in the pics. but either of these could be used for another consideration: Rebates.
I host all my horizontal panels ( apart from the top) into rebates in the vertical panels, makes a neat gap free finish and gives greater gluing area on final build. Also makes it easier when constructing for a dry fitting run. assemble on its back lock span with a couple of cramps, or even web straps. and then sit it upright. Plus if you depend on screws for this stage it wears out the holes too much for final build.
Your desk looks well thought out and designed, the cuts show attention and detail and the use of alternatives such as clay show great resourcefulness in achieving what the designers eye sees.
Good luck to you, and most of all enjoy it!


Ok thats the longest response iv ever had :D
But very helpful,Thanks!
I'm going to save this to my computer for any future MDF projects.

I'm using some MDF primer that seals the ends very well so they can be sanded down without that fluffy finish, I just used screws on the bottom without glue, just encase I have any problems when moving, all parts on the middle & top section have been glued & screwed in place.

Its a good job I just used screws on the bottom because I decided to take it apart to reduce the size by 2".

I to started undercoating a bit sooner so I could see if I would have any problems.
only problems I had was with the white primer as it was causing the ends to swell about 0.5mm so I used some MDF primer first

yes I just got the table saw for this project, also have a dremel router but its not very powerful, should have invested in a proper one :(

"Which leads to my next point: Why no edging?" Never thought about it until you mentioned it :eek:

The angles was a challenge & I though I was done with them, forgot that all the inside has LOTS more angles :(
just one part I did today had 6 on one piece & 16 in total :O
 
A plan from the start but not shown to everyone was some front lighting, I decided to keep it on the down-low encase I failed,
as Iv never done Plexiglas with LEDs..

Anyway, I think its looks good for now, should I change my mind later in the build when iv
painted or wrapped the desk I will cover them over :(

your thoughts on them would be appreciated, good or bad about anything on the build, constructive criticism can be a great help :)

don't want it to look too cheesy, but as there at my side I think they could act as nice room lighting :)


Started by cutting some plexi to the same angel as the front corners,

82_zps6xgwn3ps.jpg


83_zps1mqnockn.jpg




Sides move out the way so I can cut some groves for the plexi.

84_zpscb6s1p10.jpg




Did a bit more undercoating & the groves are now cut on both sides, top shelf still not completed as im awaiting the RES before
I make final cuts.

20150412_131804_zpskocvdk3y.jpg


20150415_224445_zps5execcwe.jpg


20150415_225343_zpsq3zstsww.jpg



Oh, Im just using super bright white LEDs for the front, its possible I could change them for RGB at a later date?

20150415_230057_zpsdyqipxue.jpg
 
The ASUS Sabertooth X99, the most tidy looking motherboard iv ever seen, should be quite easy to mod to my colour scheme.
Will be using this MB along with some DDR4 & the Intel i7-5820k.

Done some shots with & without the caps/covers

20150416_143340_zps5xdedqdl.jpg
20150416_143720_zpsxpgi9fbi.jpg
20150416_143808_zpseqc9i11m.jpg
20150416_143934_zpsx4lsfviq.jpg
20150416_144250_zpsyz8klmh8.jpg
20150416_144456_zpsx5lm8igv.jpg
20150416_145158_zpson7ifka1.jpg
20150416_145133_zpscbeeelr3.jpg
20150416_145304_zpseozb4ah2.jpg
20150416_145523_zps8uojhuev.jpg



P.S 1st page has been updated with some specs
 
Last edited:
Iv stopped working on the outside of the desk for the moment as Im awaiting the reservoirs so I can complete the top shelf
& start to fasten things into place,
but with the arrival of most of the other Phobya & OCOOL parts & the X99 motherboard, I could start working in the inside,
so Iv fitted a motherboard tray & sorted the housing for the 2X RADs.

I'm not following a design for the inside so I tend to spend hours just sitting looking at the empty cavity & trying
to picture ideas in my head lol
however I have worked out where the main components will be going.


here's one of the packages I received thanks to Phobya & OCOOL (Alphacool)
All sorts of goodies, RADs, controllers, cables, hard tubes, switches, GPU & CPU blocks & many more that I will show in more detail
as the build progresses :)

20150416_122307_zps8bw0phex.jpg



Another secret I keep to myself & a couple of people was the idea to have the sides lift away from the desk to make room for
storage & also make use of all the available space...

As both the secret ideas worked out ok I will show you one of the original designs for the desk, kept them a secret encase things
went wrong with the plan.

Speaker%20OPEN%202_zpsb7c2ljqr.jpg



I played with lots of ways to accomplish the task, the first two ideas FAILED :(
but after one more attempt I cracked it :D

So now the side will lift up & out to the side making room for my gamepads & other bits that make desks look a bit untidy.

20150415_233537_zpsletepshw.jpg



Almost all the parts inside the desk are removable, no screws used so as to make it easyer to MOD at a later date & also reduce the
weight when moving.

This double platform will hold the pads & bits, can be lifted out from the top or from the side.

20150420_141643_zpsme3bjddy.jpg


They all still need tidying up a bit & sanding down,
waiting until most of the desk is complete so if anything gets damaged as im working I wont have wasted too much time.


Cutting up a cheap old case for the parts, MB tray & front drive bays.

20150416_162213_zpsjir9ypzt.jpg



MB in place, will MOD more at later date.
For now I just want to make sure everything has a place.

20150417_155608_zpsbwsas2oa.jpg



MB back plate is just temp & will also be changed later in the build.

20150417_140623_zpsoftw8neu.jpg



Cutting 4 holes for the RADs exhaust.

20150417_173259_zpsgsj9vz32.jpg


20150418_131210_zpshysul0oz.jpg



I will be using 2X Phobya RAD mounts to fasten the RADs to the underneath of the desktop.

20150417_162217_zps8gmpsryk.jpg



As Im wanting the RADs further away from the back I added some barriers for the hot air, raised as high as possible.

20150418_140542_zpsr5gi0w76.jpg


20150418_142210_zpss1l6sdpg.jpg



The RADs are attached to the desktop but the exhausts are attached to the back of the desk, I made the fittings as tight as possible
but to eliminate any small gaps that hot air could escape though Iv added some padding that's been coated to help keep the softness but also create a thin skin.

20150418_152804_zpsnyzzxn9y.jpg


20150418_160039_zpsmajoxjtd.jpg
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom