Project: Silent Overkill

And so it begins...!



Yup, that's more hand lapping of glass for you. It occurred to me that since last time, I had acquired a diamond wheel and made an arbour to fit in the mill so I could just run that across the top and deck it flat and square...and then it further occurred to me that this would be an excellent way to aerosolise the glass getting it into my lungs and liberally coated over everything in a several metre range...so maybe not then! To give you an idea, the white snot you can see is glass dust in water. The tube was out of square by a good mm or more (gap between a square at the highest point across to the lowest) so it's taken a little while. The plate is a DMT Extra-Extra-Course 8x3" DiaSharp and I have to say, it's excellent. Apart from steel, I've lapped glass with it and taken it to the edge of a 600x300 bathroom tile to shave about 6mm off and it shows no sign of any wear at all. The tube is nearly perfect at one end but needs refining as there is slight chipping around the edge. It also needs to be less groovy so a higher grit is called for:



Since this tube is larger in diameter, it will fit on my 3" wide diamond plate but not the smaller (and cheaper!) ones I have in higher grits. I've ordered another that could be fine or could be course - the price was right so, we'll see what turns up! Got my eye on a double-sided Sharpal plate to fill in the gaps too - depends what turns up from the US of A. Lordy lordy the age verification process is a pain though. You surely don't need to be 18+ (and prove it in advance!) to order a sharpening stone though, right?! :rolleyes: A quick Google suggest not in either the UK or US...and yet my sanity clearly needed abrading! In case anyone has this issue, the key is to re-enter your credit card details NOT as requested to match what's on the card but to leave off the Mr/Mrs/Miss/Other and use your full name. So Mr J Smith would be John Smith. Then it works...if you're lucky. Painful...but I digress! Having dug out the link to previous res glass lapping, I can see that previously I used lapping film and that might be wide enough and may have saved me some cash. Ah well, bound to come in useful once it arrives - even if it's for tiling! :rolleyes:
 
Well, I ordered a big chunk of metal (100mm diameter mild steel round bar x 150mm long to allow for some.... 're-tries'!) and Evri* promptly lost it and denied all knowledge of it. Seems it's finally been found and should turn up this weekend. Damn it, I might actually have to do something that resembles progress instead of just procrastinating! :D
Diamond plate has cleared customs (perversely cheaper to import it from US than buy it pre-imported) and should also be here this weekend. So I might be able to finish lapping the glass...or at least find it harder to justify sitting on my arse and not doing it :D


*Surprise! :rolleyes:
 
I had that over summer. I ordered 24 cans of A&W Root Beer (imported) for lots of money. Evri then lost it. I got a refund, and a week later it arrived. Turns out 3 of the cans had exploded. So they literally waited until it stopped dripping then delivered it /roll eyes. Oh well, it was free, and the price was £28 so it turned into a result.
 
Look what finally turned up!



Note that Evri managed to dent even a solid steel bar! Should be able to turn that off quite easily though.
The fun part is that this weighs (calculated) just over 9kg! :eek: so it could be fun putting it in a small lathe! May have to lop it in two first....and that means finding the big (portable) bandsaw in the loft....'cos I sure as hell am not going through it with a hacksaw!!
 
Ok, also the diamond plates have turned up:



That's the DMT Extra-Extra-Course at the back and it's excellent. On the left is a new Sharpal 168H (double-sided Course and Extra-Fine) and that seems excellent too. On the right is a new DMT Diasharp D8F (Fine) and that's going back. It looks to be devoid of diamonds on the edges but I think that may be that the electroplate is covering some as it does cut on the smooth bits. Problem is that it doesn't cut the same on the edges as the middle and there's a marked difference in cut as you go over the logo. The finish was better off the Sharpal Course stone than it was off the DMT Fine so I ended up going XXC, C, EF and this real potato of a pic shows how smooth the finish is now....or rather it simply fails to show how rough it is because there's nothing to focus on, even manually.



There's a bit of chipping round the inside and outside edges where the XXC stone was really a bit too aggressive but it'll be hidden by the glued-on flange and ring so nobody will see that....and I don't feel like taking another mm or two off with a finer stone just to pointlessly get rid of it. I've chamfered the edges slightly so it's smooth to the touch; nothing sharp at all.

Edit: The DMT stone has to go all the way back to the US...which seems nuts. The Sharpal version (which is currently discounted and double sided to give me Extra-Course as well for less money) may have just 'fallen' into my basket.
 
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Ok, I have a design question for you. I think the metalwork for the res is going to have to wait until the Christmas break so I've added the QDCs to the model and started trying to lay out the distro plate. There's some features required for the res to mount to - the strainer is the bottom o-ring to seal the glass and it separates input and output to the res. This picture I've 'borrowed' from the AC forum shows it best:

Res-Glass7.jpg


That's going to eat into the thickness of acrylic I have available and with an 8mm + 10mm sandwich (a starting point rather than a fixed choice) you can see I already don't have room for the pump:

Distro8.jpg


So I'm trying to decide whether I should mount the pumps in the underneath of the distro plate like this:

Distro9.jpg


...or if I should instead mount them more standalone like the flow meter (which isn't precisely placed, just a 'don't forget me'). I could have one pump on the send line to the external rad and one on the receive line. I don't think the lack of a header tank would be a problem on that once primed...but I'm open to being told I'm wrong! :D There would be less complexity this way and they wouldn't be a big visible lump under the distro plate...but they also wouldn't be integrated which seems desirable.
If I mount the pumps in the distro, I've either got to thicken the whole lot or add a third layer round the pumps to thicken it locally. If they're standalone, I need a pair of pump tops - the existing one is two in series and I've got it in my head I want two in series but separate and not at the same point in the loop. Also, the acrylic is showing quite severe crazing that makes me a bit nervous!

Thoughts?
 
15+10 for the acrylic? Hang on, which side are you cutting the channels on? If it was just a distro then you can get away with 10+10, but since you're mounting more than fittings to both sides you might need to go thicker, especially given how much the res assembly eats into both pieces of the sandwich.

That being said though, a 20mm body is a waste just to accommodate the pumps comfortably (8mm volute depth with plenty of material left to cut 5mm deep channels and prevent acrylic from playing silly buggers), and even then the leeway is lost with how that res mount works.

So, pump option C: mounting brackets. Essentially design a pump top that is mounted under the distro body and then mount the pump to that. Make it 15mm thick so you have 8mm for the volute and 7mm for passthrough holes for the inlet and outlet.

But as I'm sketching that sort of thing in my mind whilst typing, I'm starting to think mechanically you're better off just having the pumps in the case floor mounted and tubed up on their own. We've already discussed potentially through-mounting the res assembly, but then you need to screw in the pumps too, and I think those 4 M4 bolts will be awfully close to the bolts holding in the res. The pump top bracket thing compounds this. If you screw that into the distro then you're definitely encroaching on placement of the through-holes for the res. If you have through-holes on the bracket thing so you essentially squish it between the pump and the distro, then you need much deeper threads in the distro to handle the increased stress.

Unless you design the pump top bracket thingy as a single unit that facilitates mounting two pumps and through-hole mounting of the res assembly.

I would offer to draw you a concept now that some of the computers are being moved to the new house (yes, I've moved in finally), but I think Fusion has enforced Windows 11 baseline now and I should be spending the weekends moving crap (no, I've not moved out yet).
 
Look what finally turned up!


Note that Evri managed to dent even a solid steel bar! Should be able to turn that off quite easily though.
The fun part is that this weighs (calculated) just over 9kg! :eek: so it could be fun putting it in a small lathe! May have to lop it in two first....and that means finding the big (portable) bandsaw in the loft....'cos I sure as hell am not going through it with a hacksaw!!
Proper hacksaw will eat that no problems.

Haven’t you finished this build yet? :D
 
Proper hacksaw will eat that no problems.

Yeah, I just need a proper set of arms and an extra bucket of patience to go with that hacksaw!

Haven’t you finished this build yet? :D

Finished? I haven't even finished making life harder for myself in my head yet, let alone in the real world! :D
If I'm honest, it occurred to me just yesterday that I could have designed the bottom flange to screw on to a replacement glass for the res. That has the rings pre-made, pre-glued and ready to go...and would have saved me lapping the glass and both researching and buying the glue. Such is life though - too much planning is indistinguishable from procrastination! :D

@LePhuronn Channels: I'll be honest, at this point I was only doing a rough layout rather than an entirely accurate design. Probably need to go re-watch wassisname's video on block design before I get that far. Your option C is basically what I meant when I said thicken the plate locally to the pump - an extra layer for the pump mount. I think I'm swaying more towards mounting them at the bottom to be honest. I've got the flow sensor to mount there anyway and also the pass-throughs to the external rad so it does make more sense unless I'm just stubborn about it....which you know, is possible :D On the other hand, if I'm not mounting the pump under the res, that might make it easier/possible to mount RGB LED illumination as under-lights rather than the mounted in an elastic band jobby I have as a backup.

Good to hear you've got as far as moving in. Christmas at your place then?! ;)
 
What, a WHOLE one?! :cry:

Fair though. I tell you what, I'll spoil you and give you one of those* THIS week as a bonus for being patient:



Yup, I got sidetracked :D It is for the EPDM hoses to the external rad though so it is on-topic at least :D

*got to be so careful how I word this! :eek:
 
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