Looks like they chain together and have a connector to break it out to a normal wire. Have you tried a known-good wire from a known good header (motherboard perhaps) and see which of the fans spin when connected only to that and not chained? If only one spins the others must be faulty but if they all spin on their own, there must be a problem with chaining them - like one in the middle or the end shorts out the chain. The end of the chain could also be shorted out if something can touch it and it isn't blanked off. A short or perhaps the first one not passing-through the connection would seem the most likely possibilities. Did you have to have one slightly kinked to mount it? Could that be preventing the connection passing through or even be enough to short it?
Project: THE CURSED BUILD
- Thread starter Vidar
- Start date
I had an issue with my one the other day. I literally have one I got for about a tenner on B grade. Here.
It kept stopping and the RGB was flickering. It was making half of the LEDs in the rig flicker. At first I thought I may have over loaded the RGB header (have had this before) but the board I am using (590 Tachyon) has two. And the other header with more on it was working fine. It turns out the connector (top left, if you are using them you will know what I am talking about) had come loose. The pins on it are spring loaded, and it wasn't making good contact. I took it off, wiped the pads with some alcohol and reseated it. Worked beautifully after that.
It kept stopping and the RGB was flickering. It was making half of the LEDs in the rig flicker. At first I thought I may have over loaded the RGB header (have had this before) but the board I am using (590 Tachyon) has two. And the other header with more on it was working fine. It turns out the connector (top left, if you are using them you will know what I am talking about) had come loose. The pins on it are spring loaded, and it wasn't making good contact. I took it off, wiped the pads with some alcohol and reseated it. Worked beautifully after that.
Soldato
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The odds of 9 out of 10 fans being dead are extreme
Lottery winning odds really
Faulty controller is more likely
Or alxandy said bad connection
Though am guessing you did 3 groups of 3 and 1 on its own
or 2 groups of 3 and 1 of 4 So 3 or 4 different channels
so that would mean 3 bad connections also a bit unlikely
And obviously you have used the sl120 before
So you know how to connect them
though i do think the infinity use a new improved connection?
but youve probably checked 50 times since yesterday the connection
When I got my al120 I had an issue
Emailed lian li and they sent me a firmware tool
And a firmware file
Took couple of days and that's including time zone difference
And over the weekend too
Did you get an extra controller?
Not sure if you could try the sl120 controller or not
Though from memory the sl120 and al120 you could use
Same controller though the rgb might not sync properly
One other option I guess
Connect the controller to another pc
Look in device manager then usb to see if it says inf120
Or whatever the designation is for those fans
mine says al120 in device manager
if it says some weird name which i cant remember at the moment instead
its a firmware issue
Download the lian li firmware for them
And use that lian li firmware tool I sent you to flash the controller
Though don't remember if I sent instructions too
Definitely also email lian li in the meantime mate
Due to time zone difference you may as well do it now
That way while you try stuff your email will already be in their system
It was looking great too
Having to tear it all down to troubleshoot is a nightmare
Big downside to hard Tubing especially sadly
Lottery winning odds really
Faulty controller is more likely
Or alxandy said bad connection
Though am guessing you did 3 groups of 3 and 1 on its own
or 2 groups of 3 and 1 of 4 So 3 or 4 different channels
so that would mean 3 bad connections also a bit unlikely
And obviously you have used the sl120 before
So you know how to connect them
though i do think the infinity use a new improved connection?
but youve probably checked 50 times since yesterday the connection
When I got my al120 I had an issue
Emailed lian li and they sent me a firmware tool
And a firmware file
Took couple of days and that's including time zone difference
And over the weekend too
Did you get an extra controller?
Not sure if you could try the sl120 controller or not
Though from memory the sl120 and al120 you could use
Same controller though the rgb might not sync properly
One other option I guess
Connect the controller to another pc
Look in device manager then usb to see if it says inf120
Or whatever the designation is for those fans
mine says al120 in device manager
if it says some weird name which i cant remember at the moment instead
its a firmware issue
Download the lian li firmware for them
And use that lian li firmware tool I sent you to flash the controller
Though don't remember if I sent instructions too
Definitely also email lian li in the meantime mate
Due to time zone difference you may as well do it now
That way while you try stuff your email will already be in their system
It was looking great too
Having to tear it all down to troubleshoot is a nightmare
Big downside to hard Tubing especially sadly
It's a pity none of you guys are in Liverpool, physically I could use the assistance at this point as trying to move that pc around full of fluid with my disability has bloody hurt.
@ALXAndy I'm going to try each fan individually on the one working cable I know of. It's strange though, one lose contact pad maybe but 3? Unless it's a bad batch of fans ad the working one was a single and not from a 3 pack. But I've checked the contact pads and they're all securely in place. I'll try cleaning them with isopropyl alcohol though.
Frustratingly I found something on the Lian Li support page saying about rgb working but fans not spinning being normal until updated with Lconnect but I'm not even getting the rgb on 9 of them which is ridiculous.
Fortunately atleast I have the other PC I can connect them to to see if that works but it's more lugging about.
@ALXAndy I'm going to try each fan individually on the one working cable I know of. It's strange though, one lose contact pad maybe but 3? Unless it's a bad batch of fans ad the working one was a single and not from a 3 pack. But I've checked the contact pads and they're all securely in place. I'll try cleaning them with isopropyl alcohol though.
Frustratingly I found something on the Lian Li support page saying about rgb working but fans not spinning being normal until updated with Lconnect but I'm not even getting the rgb on 9 of them which is ridiculous.
Fortunately atleast I have the other PC I can connect them to to see if that works but it's more lugging about.
Soldato
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even if i was in liverpool
wouldnt be able to lift the thing anyway
thats the reason i put mine on that floating shelf
and attached castors to it
and why its sitting on a bit of furniture 18 inches off the floor too
even something as simple as plugging a cable into rear of pc
becomes a nightmare if youre in bad health
wouldnt be able to lift the thing anyway
thats the reason i put mine on that floating shelf
and attached castors to it
and why its sitting on a bit of furniture 18 inches off the floor too
even something as simple as plugging a cable into rear of pc
becomes a nightmare if youre in bad health
Well, I've figured it out! This is partly carelessness on my part but mostly down to poor design and lack of proper instruction by Lian Li.
The contact pads where on backwards, doh!
To be fair they slot in both ways, there's nothing in the instructions that clearly indicates which way they go and either way the pins make contact with the pads. I only figured it out because of a YouTuber called Gibby's World of Tech who talked about this very issue with the fans. I've not seen anything else anywhere to suggest this as the issue so props to the guy, he's made a subscriber out of me!
Suffice to say though that's more of my loop coming apart as the side fans simply aren't accessible without pulling the rad but at least now I know...
The contact pads where on backwards, doh!
To be fair they slot in both ways, there's nothing in the instructions that clearly indicates which way they go and either way the pins make contact with the pads. I only figured it out because of a YouTuber called Gibby's World of Tech who talked about this very issue with the fans. I've not seen anything else anywhere to suggest this as the issue so props to the guy, he's made a subscriber out of me!
Suffice to say though that's more of my loop coming apart as the side fans simply aren't accessible without pulling the rad but at least now I know...
Soldato
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yeah i knew 9 fans wouldnt be DOA
hopefully connecting the pins the wrong way around
hasnt caused any damage to the fans
but hey you put 1 on the right way at least lol
i bet theres been a few ##### flying around up there
hopefully connecting the pins the wrong way around
hasnt caused any damage to the fans
but hey you put 1 on the right way at least lol
i bet theres been a few ##### flying around up there
I'm really angry mate to be honest as it could be easily resolved with a noticeable arrow or key. On the plus side it means I can change a few things.
That drain port under the pump is no use to me like that, I can't get my hands in there to attach a pipe with the gpu in so going to try a 90 degree adapter etc and see how I get on
That drain port under the pump is no use to me like that, I can't get my hands in there to attach a pipe with the gpu in so going to try a 90 degree adapter etc and see how I get on
Soldato
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yeah usually i do 90 degree adaptor
so drain ports aimed towards the rear panel
underneath the 3 rear/side fans in this 011d xl that is
sounds like poor design from lian li though
so drain ports aimed towards the rear panel
underneath the 3 rear/side fans in this 011d xl that is
sounds like poor design from lian li though
What an absolute ordeal! But, I'm finally up and running. Minus a few finishing touches like bleeding the system, trying to find and internal usb-c extension cable etc I'm done. I'm very pleased with how it looks and sounds... It's not too loud under load and if I'm understanding things right my temps are pretty good! CinebenchR23 Multi thread run saw temps instantly hit 92c instantly from an average of 49.3c at idle, at it's highest 93c exactly with a score of 36638! And damn was it fast compared to my old 9900k! I can't tell you what my last score was on that but it wasn't anywhere near 36638. As far as my understanding goes, this 7950x is designed to run at 95c under load and CinebenchR23 hits it damn hard, harder than anything I could normally throw at it anyway. So is this good? I think it is.
I haven't run much in the way of GPU benchmarks yet, the steam page is down for me so no getting the installer to try games or 3Dmark but Heaven sits happy at around 50c, I believe I was around 75c under load on heaven with this card at stock on air so quite a noticeable drop there! I should have benched it before building this one but I didn't think. Ah well, live and learn.
So, picture time... forgive to rainbow puke, my 5 year old loves it and wants to see it before school!
Getting the stock cooler off this card was an absolute ball ache! I'm convinced EVGA mixes superglue with their thermal pads and paste as it took a lot of twisting and swearing to get it loose. The amount of tension they put on the mount was worrying also and when it gave it up the audible crack it made had me thinking the dye had just been destroyed.
Cleaning all the residue off took ages with a mix of a plastic spudger, isopropyl alcohol and ear buds. But I got it looking respectable and managed to get the GPU block and active backplate on without too much fuss.
Didn't notice the dirty great whopping finger prints on the inside of the plexi until it was installed and all lit up though!
After discovering that Youtuber and discovering my mistake, I got this when the first of my 9 fans came alive!
Tearing down the loop was a god damned nightmare, mostly due to the fact I couldn't get a tube or fitting on the drain valve with such little space to move thanks to the vertical mount being in. I had to spew X1 fluid out the front and get some soft tube on with the help of Mrs Vidar which was fun... not! X1 is sticky and horrible!
So I came up with this, yes, yes... I know that's an old Barrow 90 degree adapter but it saved me from waiting another 24 to 48hrs and is the only compromise I made.
So, while I really like the quality of EK's products their product designer needs a bit of a slap! They seem to be happy with, if it barely fits, it's good enough... one example of this is their damn vertical mounting bracket, with the riser cable this has a tendency to pull out cable mounted to the bottom of your motherboard and with such little space to get your hands makes it impossible to reseat them without pulling the whole frame out. The RGB connectors being a particular problem.
EK recommending a P360 for the side radiator is also a bit silly and tricky to install. as it leaves no space to route the front panel connectors, which have to be forced down the side and under the radiator which requires brute strength to get the rad and fans to line up. it also renders a few of the cables far to short such as the HD front panel audio (Which I don't use anyway) and the USB-C connector which I do use.
Here's another potato pic. This time, finally, of the system up and running! Marvel at the rainbow puke and dirty finger prints on the inside of block which I'm not sure are mine or belong to the previous owner of the block. Rejoice at the great whopping dirty mark on my desk I didn't notice before I took the picture! lol
Things I might change in the future, possibly removing the single exhaust fan and replacing it with a sensor panel, though I could just run one externally perhaps. I think replacing the fluid with mystic fog would look great but that depends on long term use reviews.
Also adding another couple of NVME drives further down the line, I have two Samsung 980Pro 2tb drives (Update to latest firmware) but wouldn't mind another 2 in the future.
I really didn't enjoy this build at all, the months of waiting for parts to come in because of that ******* Matrix 7 nonsense, the ball ache of actually getting it built with all the problems I had. What happened with my daughter that really took my focus away from less important things like this and just generally how my disability progressing has made everything so much harder. I just don't think I enjoy PC building the way I used too. Part of the reason I wanted to do this I think was to rekindle my passion for the hobby but it's just emphasised how little pleasure I get from it now.
I think if I build again in the future, this will certainly be my last hardline watercooled PC but more likely I'll get one built for me.
Not sure on the dimensions of what's available and what space you have but could you put that display along the bottom edge between the rad and the glass? Where the red "Attention" sticker is in that last pic.
I've always gone with a friend of mine's pearl of wisdom when it comes to coolant. "What colour would look best when it's all over your carpet?!" Clear colourless it is then!
I've 'tested' this wisdom more times than I'd care to admit to!I'll definitely give you that your build has had more grief than most. But on the other hand, at least for me, it's not entirely about enjoying the build process but about being proud of the result (which you should be!). To a certain degree, if it's all smooth sailing, you've not pushed the boundaries of what you can do...and that seems to me to be part of the point.
Oh, and personally, I rather like the rainbow puke. Yeah it may have been done but if your lighting can do loads of colours, surely you're failing to take advantage if you just set it to one colour?! Mine are non-addressable RGB and I've got those set to change from blue to red with the temp of each component...and then (thanks to an office re-arrange) I've completely hidden the window-side of the case so nobody can see it *facepalm*
Soldato
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After a few weeks the blood,sweat and tears of the build
Will be a distant memory
Then you will start getting the update itch again
Once that happens
You know where I live so just send that pile of junk here
Now the kids are at school
Let's see some pics with some non rainbow puke lighting
For an external sensor pick up an old lenovo yoga tab
It has a really good built in kickstand
Should be next to nothing if can find one
@Cenedd Signalrgb and even to a lesser extent L-connect
have plenty presets that use multiple colours
but arent rainbow puke
with signalrgb sometimes I set that
But switch some of the leds to just white as well
It really is an amazing piece of software
Especially given that the free version still allows amazing customisation
Will be a distant memory
Then you will start getting the update itch again
Once that happens
You know where I live so just send that pile of junk here
Now the kids are at school
Let's see some pics with some non rainbow puke lighting
For an external sensor pick up an old lenovo yoga tab
It has a really good built in kickstand
Should be next to nothing if can find one
@Cenedd Signalrgb and even to a lesser extent L-connect
have plenty presets that use multiple colours
but arent rainbow puke
with signalrgb sometimes I set that
But switch some of the leds to just white as well
It really is an amazing piece of software
Especially given that the free version still allows amazing customisation
@Mcnumpty2323 Interesting. I think I've stumbled across that before but it's worth remembering.
I avoided Corsair in my last build because of their proprietary system that doesn't play nicely with others.
I wanted everything 'standard' and used a Farbwerk 360 as the ARGB controller.
It's worth mentioning that the Farbwerk uses a mix of standard 4-pin (with 3 present) headers and their own pico-blade variety.
The pico-blade is not standard but the signaling across it IS - it just doesn't have the tendancy to fall out like the standard ones!
SignalRGB supports a Farbwerk so it could be the link to sync things like keyboards etc if those come along in future.
I avoided Corsair in my last build because of their proprietary system that doesn't play nicely with others.
I wanted everything 'standard' and used a Farbwerk 360 as the ARGB controller.
It's worth mentioning that the Farbwerk uses a mix of standard 4-pin (with 3 present) headers and their own pico-blade variety.
The pico-blade is not standard but the signaling across it IS - it just doesn't have the tendancy to fall out like the standard ones!
SignalRGB supports a Farbwerk so it could be the link to sync things like keyboards etc if those come along in future.
Soldato
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Yeah all the proprietary stuffs a nightmare
I buy from whatever manufacturer sells what I want
That's why I started looking into finding something that would control it all
As running all different rgb softwares just conflicts
Signalrgb is currently controlling my
Ek,corsair, phanteks,lian li,thermaltake and asus rgb all with one software
Even devices that aren't in support list
You can add them as custom led strips instead
Just a case of figuring out how many leds are in the device
Usually I do that by just increasing the number
Until all the leds in a device are lit up
I maybe could have done with that for a couple of builds.
I avoided RGB RAM because of having to run some random software to control it
and a motherboard had some LEDs on it that you could control with some mobo software
but the mobo software was massively over-the-top in size and complexity....so I think I used duct tape to make the issue go away
I avoided RGB RAM because of having to run some random software to control it
and a motherboard had some LEDs on it that you could control with some mobo software
but the mobo software was massively over-the-top in size and complexity....so I think I used duct tape to make the issue go away
So dear readers, I've hit a snag! My fluid temps are 42c after a few hours of gaming which is over deformation temperature of the Petg tubing I used... so I'm switching to Pmma. Hopefully this is the last **** you vidar this build has for me.
Yeah, 42 is a bit higher than comfortable and you're probably getting to around max rated temp for the pump too. I prefer acrylic over PETG because it doesn't go cloudy. It can be a bit more brittle but it's not usually a problem unless you can step on it or it's taking mechanical forces it shouldn't - ask me how I know
I'd say it sounds like you don't have enough rad but 2x360 ought to be enough. Could you have an air bubble blocking part of the top rad? Otherwise, can a third rad fit where the side fans are? You know, just for complete overkill
I'd say it sounds like you don't have enough rad but 2x360 ought to be enough. Could you have an air bubble blocking part of the top rad? Otherwise, can a third rad fit where the side fans are? You know, just for complete overkill
Yeah, 42 is a bit higher than comfortable and you're probably getting to around max rated temp for the pump too. I prefer acrylic over PETG because it doesn't go cloudy. It can be a bit more brittle but it's not usually a problem unless you can step on it or it's taking mechanical forces it shouldn't - ask me how I know
I'd say it sounds like you don't have enough rad but 2x360 ought to be enough. Could you have an air bubble blocking part of the top rad? Otherwise, can a third rad fit where the side fans are? You know, just for complete overkill
Don't scare me like that, D5 pumps are rated to 60c Liquid temps so fortunately it's just the tubes that need sorting. And I've already got 3 x360 rads in here, two quantum 360p's one in the side hidden by fans and one quantum 360s. without adding an external rad in the future I've got as much cooling capacity as this case can possibly manage.
As for trapped air, it's possible I'm still bleeding the system and have noticed a big fluid drop over night indicating a big amount of air has moved, my idle fluid temp has also dropped to 25.05c this morning so we'll see if that was the issue.
But go on how do you know? lol
Sorry, the temps on a DDC that I'd previously looked up (a long time back) seem to have been revised upwards - I think they used to quote either 45 or 50°C
Performance doesn't sound right to me though. With your CPU putting out more like 230W (from a quick search - the TDP is a fantasy these days) and your GPU putting out 350W, that's a total of 580W - lets say 600W. According to EK here it should handle about 300W per 360 rad at relatively low fan speeds (1100 rpm is their lowest). Three should comfortably handle the load unless there's something else stopping it like conflicting airflow or air bubble/lock. The static pressure on those fans seems good too so it shouldn't be that they can't push the air either. I tend to run older hardware of late so I'm maybe not the best judge here....but it doesn't sound right to me. Have you had the system de-cursed yet?!
Performance doesn't sound right to me though. With your CPU putting out more like 230W (from a quick search - the TDP is a fantasy these days) and your GPU putting out 350W, that's a total of 580W - lets say 600W. According to EK here it should handle about 300W per 360 rad at relatively low fan speeds (1100 rpm is their lowest). Three should comfortably handle the load unless there's something else stopping it like conflicting airflow or air bubble/lock. The static pressure on those fans seems good too so it shouldn't be that they can't push the air either. I tend to run older hardware of late so I'm maybe not the best judge here....but it doesn't sound right to me. Have you had the system de-cursed yet?!