Project; Turbo GSXR Slingshot

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Passed the MOT with 1 advisory for a noisy exhaust, strange...

Taxed it this morning so its all legal.

Tiff took it for the MOT as I couldn't get out of work, he got caught in traffic on the way back and the bike cut out, wouldn't start until it had cooled down for an hour or so. Need to try and keep some heat out of the engine/intake area.

Also need a longer clutch line as its a little melted from where its slipped onto the turbo, and a heat shield on the exhaust as it melts trousers! Knew about that though.

Ordered the parts so I'll try and get some miles on it and monitor temps, may also check the ecu settings to see if any temp limits have been set and might check ignition timing too.
 
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Been out, the vid isn't great as I struggled to find anywhere good for the camera and the bike still has some running issues.

It gets hot, very quick. Coolant was up to 60c within half a mile, stayed there ok as long as I was doing 60 with low rpm's. As soon as I opened it up a little it was up to 70c and stayed there then cut out when I had to stop for some lights.

Clutch isn't right as it doesn't like changing gear at higher rpm, thought I was in 5th as it wouldn't change up but when I slowed a bit it changed fine..

The rev counter still doesn't work right either so I don't know what rpm its reaching, need to get that sorted before the next run out.

The run back was better but didn't record it as I expected it to cut out again, still sat at 70c but made it home fine. Did try out the quickshifter though and it works lovely, little pop from the exhaust and a nice smooth gear change. Will be using that all the time.

The breathers are spraying a bit of oil out which is ending up on the right side of the rear tyre, there's also an oil leak under the seat which is making its way down the left side of the bike and ending up on the left side of the rear tyre.

Vid to follow once its uploaded.
 
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Don't be expecting too much!


I've flushed the coolant out and checked the thermostat, it works but I've left it out for now to see if it helps having a better flow.
 
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Its not far off, a few tweaks and a few bits to finish.


Found a cause for it cutting out, one of the bolts that mount the turbo had fell out and its one that the hole breaks through into the compressor housing.


Would have been drawing too much air in on closed throttle which is why it cut out when I shut the throttle when warm.
Would also be causing it to run leaner than normal and hotter.


Sounded a little better on the new ignition map and even better once the bolt had been replaced.
New ignition map replaces the complex 3D map that John put on which didn't have full ignition timing coming in until 4-5k rpm. The new one is 2D and more like the standard timing. There's a MAP correction table that pulls timing a set amount increasing for higher boost levels.


Heat wrap and a bend for the exhaust shield should be here tomorrow to stop me burning my leg for the next test ride.

Heard from the owner of a standard K4 and he says his bike runs at 85c-95c depending on traffic so I think I'm worrying too much over coolant temps, will still keep an eye on them though.
 
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change your coolant to this stuff http://www.evanscoolants.co.uk/;)

its not water based so it wont boil

It also raises the temperature of the engine due to it's greater viscosity and lower specific heat capacity. Not a great plan on something that's likely to be more prone to detonation than the standard engine.

It's also banned from tracks as it's almost as slippery as oil, and it's stupidly expensive.
 
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I've heard of that coolant didn't know its negative sides though.

Another run out today, got the same distance though!

Sat at lights for a minute and watched the coolant temp creap up, cut out exactly on 100c


While I was sat waiting for it to cool down I reloaded the ignition map it came back with, seemed to run the same temp on the way back but sat with it running and the temp didn't rise as quickly. Definitely felt quicker though.


Will try it with that map but without the retard on boost.


Need to keep plenum temps down so will wrap the last bit of up pipe. Considering putting some heat reflective mat on the plenum, thing is I don't want to insulate it and keep heat in.


The heat shield on the exhaust worked well but it still gets pretty warm.
 
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This thread has dropped behind a bit.

Whilst checking the fueling over I couldn't get a reading from the lambda sensor.

Spent a week or so going back and forth between John and Specialist Components trying to get the lambda working only to find John didn't fit a lambda controller so it was never going to work.


I'm using the 4.2 lambda and typically Specialist Components no longer make the controller for the 4.2 as they only use the new 4.9 lambda.

Decided as I'd already replaced the 4.2 sensor I wasn't going to spend out again on a 4.9 sensor and controller. It wasn't my problem to sort out and I'd already spent enough time and money on trying to sort it.
John offered to supply a new 4.9 sensor and controller in return for the new 4.2 sensor I'd bought. Sounded the best deal I was going to get out of him so I went for it. Had another week or so wait as the 4.9 controllers were on back order!

But its in and working now so its moving forward.

Done a few low rpm data logging runs and had some big lean spots. Started sorting them out but the auto correction masked a lot of the problem areas, without seeing a screen whilst riding its hard to see what areas are being corrected and by how much.

I could turn it off but then I can't see whats happening while I'm riding, I'd have to data log a run then see how bad it is. Really risky because I know the map isn't that good.

Decided I need a professional and a dyno.
So done some research and asking around and I'm booked in at RTR Motorcycles in Bingham for a day on the dyno.

See how much better he can get the bike running and maybe get a more realistic power figure.

Got loaded up tonight and locked the bike and trailer in the garage, ready to hook up in the morning for hopefully a good day.
Really want a good dyno vid as well!



Looking forward to working with Dan from RTR and will be interesting to see how much the tune gets changed and how much better he can get it running.
 
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Actually didn't realise how far behind this thread was.

Spent a fair bit of time previously going through ecu settings putting a lot of things to basic settings, like a bike on carbs would be. Got it running ok and kept temps under control, would start from hot and warm as well which was nice.

There's a limit to how much you can do in a shed though so it was definitely time for a dyno.

Arrived at RTR, got that weird nervous feeling you get when someone is about to give your homebuilt engine a stress test.
 
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100c really isn't very hot, My R6 sees temps over that sat in traffic here, my dad's R1 sees 225f (107c) regularly.

FYI my KTM overheated so I replaced with Engine Ice, not overheated since, may be worth a try (no idea actual temp as it has no sensor, it just boiled over)
 
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The over heating problem wasn't so much the temps reached it was how quick it got there and wouldn't come back down.
The fans on the oil cooler used to come on as well and they don't since I stopped it pulling timing everywhere.

Dyno day started with a few pulls as it rolled up, 193bhp.
Finished at 11ish, coolant temps were creaping up in the dyno room and it was sitting at 90-100c which is too hot for accurate mapping.
The killer came when the little monster can my breathers run into filled up above the hose lines and it threw oil all over the dyno! That was it for dyno time as we had some oil to clean up and I had a list of things to improve.

Clearly need to sort something better out for the breathers but it was concerning just how much oil it had blew out in the first place.

Got back and unloaded then rang Dave Dunlop, his opinion is something isn't right inside the engine, bhp figures are down and even a fresh built engine shouldn't breath anywhere near that amount. Pistons/bores are number 1 suspect.

Asked a friend for a second opinion and pretty much the same answer.

So will start with basic checks that would've been done sooner or later anyway, valve clearances etc then dig deeper.
 
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