Purchased a small French lightweight hot hatch - Renault Clio 172 Cup & NOW 182 Trophy

What’s the total spend so far?

Shall work it out once all parts arrived and belts done, but including the car it shall be around £3500, as I am quite a perfectionist so I will change every suspension component for fresh, not just the bits that need doing, in short I want it to drive like it drove the day it was brand new.
As you know just a short list I can remember:
- new Cup dampers all round - £120
- fresher Cup springs all round - £20
- New front wishbones - £150
- Inner / Outer track rods - £60
- New top mount kits - £60
- New engine / gearbox mounts - £100
- Powerflex yellow upper drivers side engine mount - £30
- Powerflex rear beam bushes - £60


That is just the stuff I can remember, but that is £600, then the specialist work shall be around £850 for the full major service and all belts, pulleys, dephaser, water pump changed etc.

When I do something, I do it right!
A guy who did similar recently on a 172 Cup with 79k miles, he advertised his at £4250 and it was sold within a week, so its not wasted money even if my intention was to then sell it, however there is no plan to sell it, but to enjoy the car it shall remain as per original specification as much as possible but of course if the factory cars had an inherent weakness, for example such as RTAB's on E46 M3's really benefit from limiter kits even when brand new, then of course such items shall be added, just like for tyres I am fitting AD08R's which of course are superior to the old factory fit Michelin Exalto tyre Cup's used to come with.

But the intention is to keep it as close to stock as possible or certainly have the ability to make it completely factory stock quite easily in just a few works that I can carry out myself. :)
 
Hi there

So a quick job this morning, as it required no tools, well you need you driving licence or anything that is a similar size, credit card etc.

Popped out the old grotty amber side repeaters and fitted some white/clear ones, also fully cleaned them up before fitting:

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It is one of those cheap (£10) and easy modifications to do which really freshens up an old car. :)
 
More deliveries for the project:


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Full synthetic Renault approved engine and gearbox oil. :)





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New latest revision wishbones which have additional camber, new ball balljoints, now engine mount (more mounts too arrive), fresh wipers all round, new dust boots for new front dampers. :)





So the previous owner at some point must have allowed the wipers to fail resulting in bear metal wipers scraping the glass and thus the glass is deeply scratched. I've attempted to polish out with zero success they are just too deep. Then I tried what I watched on youtube which is use Fast Orange hand wash with pumice mixed with some compound or polish, about 70% fast orange and 30% compound, then use with a 3M polishing pad on a rotary. Well I only have a sponge on a drill end so not proper polishing pad but better than trying to do by hand.

Before on drivers side:

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After on drivers side:

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A vast improvement for sure, it is still there but it is about 65% gone, this was around an hour of constant polishing, another hour will probably improve it a lot or get the proper 3M polishing pad and a rotary.








Passenger side was even worse, really deep scratches and a lot more off them, not just on the outer radius:

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After on passenger side:

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An improvement, about 50% reduced, but needs a lot more effort but after constant polishing for a couple of hours I had enough and now want to get some dinner. Shall try to get proper 3M pads compatible with my drill and see if that helps makes progress faster.




So a question for the Renault experts, I want the car to handle, steer, grip like it would have new, so far I have:
- new cup dampers
- new top mounts
- revised upper top mount nuts
- new grams springs
- new wishbones
- new balljoints
- new anti roll bar bushes and drop links
- new engine & gearbox mounts
- Powerflex upper engine mount insert
- Powerflex rear beam inserts
- new AD08R tyres


Have I missed any bushes that are key, any items I should be replacing on steering, rack etc. to make sure its all tight?
 
Who lets their wipers get in such a state they fail. They'd drive me mad months beforehand with constantly leaving trails of windscreen wash. Good read so far.

Unfortunately some people see a car merely as a means of transport, nothing else and hate to spend money unnecessary.
The good things about the car is the low miles and only one previous owners, but that owner literally had the car serviced by Renault for the first three years, then it never went to Renault again and was serviced by a mate yearly and parts were only replaced as they failed or MOT failure.

Its a very honest car but it needs a lot of TLC which it is now getting, major service, all belts and pullies this Friday, along with all the fresh suspension/bushes fitted, should drive like new then. Just leaves to then restore anything else that needs doing mechanically on underside of car.

Advantage is the owner did not seem to drive the car hard, or anywhere, just a commuter too and from work, after all to survive 15 years and 55k miles without a single belt change shows its had quite an easy life as to how hard its been driven, plus the cars feels remarkably tight, I probably don't need to change half the suspension as I am, but I don't do things by half and any good parts that come off, I will sell. :)
 
Hi there

Well was expecting a lot more deliveries, but courier drivers must be taking a break, only DPD deliveries on time, so not so much to report.
But ordered a set of car mats to keep the interior carpets from getting worn and I like the blue accents and cup172 branding on them:


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There is also a nice big mat in the boot too which was ideal as the original boot trim mat was ruined and the aftermarket mats are higher quality and better finish.








The Grams lowering springs arrived from KAM Racing which are made in the same factory as the Cooksports to a similar specification. The drop is in theory around 20-25mm on a 172 Cup so nothing outrageous and feedback is a tad firmer than stock but improve handling, as I have no real stock reference to go from the only kind of feedback I shall be able to give is how the car feels on them with a complete suspension refresh, but have nothing to compare too.

Here they are next to some pretty fresh 172 cup springs (20,000 miles) you can see the Grams are a small amount shorter, of course once on the car the originals will compress more with the cars weight whereas the Grams will compress less simply due to being a higher spring rate. (Grams are glossy ones and original cups are the matt ones):


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I also weighed the springs, the original cup springs come in at 6.8kg total, whereas the Grams springs weigh in at 7.9kg total, this again makes sense due to the Grams having more material due to the closer packed coils and thus more coils.
 
Gibbo, I have rear camber spacers for the rear kicking around, along with a new water pump (gen Renault) plus some other bits from my cup if you want them free...

Cheers fella, shall let you know, car is in on Friday for all the major cambelt work, once all suspension is on and fresh tyres, shall get it on alignment and if for whatever reason it can't be put to around factory specification due to been a little lower I will give you a shout. :)
 
Another thing you might want to look into - get the steering wheel retrimmed. Snappy on Cliosport does a great job and is quite reasonable (I think he's still doing them anyway).

I've been considering buying this:
https://www.cliosport.net/threads/snappy-wheel.820936/

Put my blue bit back at the bottom and of course I don't need the cruise control stuff.

Am guessing it is a simple and easy job to fit and will fit my 172, considering its of a 182 FF?

Price good or bad?

I'd keep my original wheel too as its got minimal wear and should I ever sell and next owner wanted a truly original car than I have all the stock items to go with car, such as cup springs, amber side repeaters and original wheel. :)
 
I can't view unfortunately, I'm not a CS member anymore!

Saved the image, here it is:

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It is £160, good or bad price, was maybe gonna offer £140 delivered, it does not come with the trim (buttons and lower insert) which is fine as my car has no buttons and I prefer my blue insert.
 
If you're doing a full refresh are you not better off changing the windscreen?


Can't get them, if I change it, then it shall be replaced with a full weight regular windscreen.
Value reasons the car is worth more with all the original glass. A few more hours polishing and I am sure I can 90% remove those scratches and if I was buying a 172 cup for collection reasons or wanted a genuine car having the original glass throughout would be important to me as its thinner lighter glass from the factory.

The 172cup was vastly lighter than other models, 89kg to be exact which is a lot of weight, particular on a car that weighed only around 1100kg to begin with, whereas the Cup weighs 1011-1021kg depending where you read, I guess the 10kg difference is probably down to options.
 
Hmmm it looks nice, just double check if the fitment is the same (I'm fairly sure it is but wouldn't want to splash out and find it won't work with a 172 Cup!)

And yeh offer less, I think snappy charged £120 for the service.

Cheers m8, don't mind paying a touch more as it includes a wheel. :D
 
Great project and admire your attention detail. These lighter variants bring back fond memories of the couple of Peugeot 306 Rallye's i had.

Yes I am also on the look out for a 106 Rallye or 106 GTi as well, just waiting for a spot on example at not crazy money that needs little to no work and I shall just put that in storage at another property and enjoy from time to time as I believe 106 GTI's in spot on condition will be worth big money in years to come as they were and still are so good, also one if not the best looking small hot hatches too. :)
 
Did an MOT history search on both my 106GTi and Clio 182. Seems both are now on the scrap heap :(

I had a snappy wheel before, he does amazing work. That and the short shifter on my 106 made the biggest difference to me as you touch them so often!

Yep that is unfortunately the way, they are cheap French cars, many get scrapped just for failing an MOT as the owner either can't afford to fix it, or simply cannot be bothered and gets another car.
Also searching for 106 GTI, so few examples are unmodified, nearly all of them have been heavily modified or turned into track or rally cars, that makes finding one even more difficult. The few stock ones for sale either need lots of work, are rotten, silly high miles or a stupid high price.

If anyone does come across a nice 106 GTI that looks wise is stock let me know please, I don't mind power modifications as long as its still factory engine, just nothing to crazy like turbochargers though.
 
Hi there

Quite a few deliveries today including a new rear upper brake light, chipex platinum kit and the front steering components:


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- Renault inner track rod kits x2
- Lemforder outer track rod ends x2
- Powerflex steering bushes x2
- Powerflex anti-roll bar bushes x4
- Upper spring seats
- gearbox sump plug and washer
- engine sump plug and washer
- Damper dust boots










So I got to work with Chipex kit and to start with removed old rear brake light as there was a lot of paint flaking behind it, so cleaned it all up and removed any flaking paint:


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So did not make this perfect job as once the light is in, hard to see in there, so just made sure I applied plenty of paint and left it to dry:


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I then did the chipped of paint on door edges and the deep scratch on the door:

Before:

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After:

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The results are not perfect, if you look close you can still see, but you now have to be close up and looking, all in all a great improvement and its my first attempt at touching in big chips and scratches, I was having some success and on other ones not so much. The Chipex Platinum kit is quite large so I'd used only 15-20% doing all this, so I can have another go or find someone with more experience to try and perfect for me.


The car is at Birchdown Auto Services tomorrow for the belts/pulleys and full service:
http://www.birchdown.com/


If all goes well, next week or following week wheels refurb and a set of AD08R's all round, looking forward to driving the car. :)
 
Hi there


So 8am this morning I dropped the car of with Birchdown Auto Services who are a highly recommended Renault specialist, they provided me with a courtesy car so off I went to work:
http://www.birchdown.com/

Gave them the list of work I wanted doing knowing they would never get everything done in one day but to do their best with of course belts, pulleys and service taking priority.
Also requested they wipe and clean every as working on the car and thoroughly inspect and drive the car to give me a list of any issues or advise they find to get done on the car.


So come 17:30, I arrive back at Birchdown, the first thing I notice is the car parked outside looking incredible, the grams lowering springs aesthetically are spot on, not slammed, the huge arch gap that could previously be used for smuggling is now gone leave a 2-3 finger gap, they may settle a little more further but the car was full of original suspension in boot too so probably won't much, some pictures I took before chatting with Andy and Steve:



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So they basically told me I am lucky as the pulley had broken which normally leads to the auxiliary belt slipping off and taking the cambelt with it, destroying the engine, not just that but the cambelt was very heavily cracked and did not have much life in in and was one of the worse they had seen. The dephaser was also totally knackered, but I knew that from how loud the engine was at warm idle.

Of course this was expected, hence parking it and keep RPM's very low, I enquired as to what other issues they found and they said the only issues they discovered was knackered rear dampers and a little play in the inner track rods, which you already have all the parts for.



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They said they could not find any other issues with the car and said it was rust and corrosion free on the underside as well, commenting its a fantastic honest example just in need of TLC, which it has now had by myself and them. They did say on their test drive they were surprised at how strong the car feels, more so than normal and how tight it felt even though they did not complete the full suspension refresh. Again they said this was surprising considering the miss-matched tyres but it drove beyond expectations. They think the previous owner did not really drive it hard as even though were replacing all bushes, wishbones, the ones on there are in good condition and they said though the dog bone mount and lower mount were worn it was not typical wear of 50,000 miles, so its had an easy life, probably why the belts did not snap.
He also said that the oil leak was purely from the power steering valve which they fixed and that the engine had no oil leaks which is rare on them and now with a new rocker cover and re-seal should all be good.




So then I got the bad bit, the bill. :D



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Very fair price as a full days work plus they also supplied a lot of the hardware, all paid up and time to look forward to the drive home which was all pretty much national speed limit country roads, oh boy is the car a huge amount of fun, its pretty damn epic, crazy how much fun can be had for so little money!

Car idles silent, no more rattle or diesel type noise. I never opened it up before but car at low RPM is smoother and feels like stronger torque. So I finally got to enjoy opening the car up and it pulls really strong through entire rev range but at 5500rpm area it seems to come on cam and pulls harder to around 7300rpm and is eager, it feels much stronger than 160HP they supposedly all run, of course it does not weigh much which will help but its quite torque for a petrol 2.0l, certainly in something only weighing a tonne.

Car has great corner grip once into the corner, you can then just make the tyres scream, I'd forgotton how easy and fun FWD can be in sorted chassis that just begs to be driven hard, huge fun.
Only complaints are steering is a bit vague and loose feeling over undulations which am putting down to track rods, steering rack bushes (still yet to do).
Brakes do the job, could be better though, going to look into what is available here.
Back-end feels planted now and turn in is fantastic, feels like it just holds on for deer life even with 4 budget tyres and one been a winter, lol.
Did I say, GREAT FUN! It gets to 100mph pretty swiftly too!


So time to give it a full tank of Vpower, £52, nice I cannot believe how good on fuel this car is, even driving it hard the consumption seems to good to be true, but in comparison the SVR and M3 absolutely drink fuel unless cruising, but the Clio on a cruise nearly returned 50mpg, but its not a cruising car as gearing is not suited to 70-80mph at all.



shell5.jpg~original


shell1.jpg~original


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The drove home on some of my favourite roads, its amazing how you can chuck it in way too fast, my the tyres squeal through a corner or roundabout, then just bury the throttle with it giving a tad torque steer and the tyres screaming for mercy as you slide and accelerate down the road, a lot of fun, but also capable, can't wait to refresh suspension and get a set of AD08R's on the car!



So got home, emptied all the old stuff out the boot and parts they had not yet fitted, plus a spare litre of oil:



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Plus a picture of the engine bay after some more cleaning and new header tank in place:


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So its booked back in at Birchdown next month by which time the wheels will have been refurbed and have the AD08R's fitted to have the remainder done which is:
- Renault inner track rod arms x2
- Lemforder outer track rod arms x2
- Powerflex anti-roll bar bushes x4
- Powerflex steering bushes x2
- Upper engine mount and Powerflex insert (may do myself)
- Powerflex rear beam bushes
- New front pair wishbones
- Alignment to factory settings
- Might do a full brake refresh for some higher quality disc and pads, or maybe a Brembo conversion? Whats available?
- There is either a lot of tyre/road roar or a wheel bearing is a little dry as around 40-50mph got the typical wheel bearing humm/drone noise of a dry bearing, did typical clutch in neutral, no change so either bearing or tyre roar.





So now I can use the car, which I shall be doing, its a lot of fun and its only going to get better. :)
 
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Good to hear it was the Pas pressure switch and rear dampers as thought. And great news you've basically saved the engine...

Not got much time but just to jot down some thoughts:

1) Wheel bearing drone - probably the cheap tyres as the fronts in particular rarely go (mine are still original at 126k). Rears are easy to change as they are built in to the discs.

2) Brakes - some people do the 4 pot conversion but you will get a slightly longer pedal feel unless you change the master cylinder and in reality it's a light and lowish power car. It's not underbraked like a standard M3. Give it a fluid flush (ate type 200 or similar), change for braided lines and refresh the discs and pads. No point getting anything more than plain discs, they perform excellently on road or track. Get Brembo or Pagid. Brembo discs can be had for about £45 for the front pair with a gsf weekend discount.

Pads - have a chat with George at RTR parts on the Cliosport forum. Some ds2500s or similar but be a good upgrade for road use with some extra performance. On track I use Ferodo DS1.11 which are phenomenal but very noisy.

Hi m8

1. So if I buy genuine rear disc, those come with new wheel bearings included? Do the Brembo rears include rear bearing too? As I see Renault genuine rear disc include it but also have an ABS ring, whereas Brembo mention bearing been included but no ABS ring and should purchase separately. I don't have ABS.
2. So a pair of front Brembo HC disc, DS2500 all round, braided lines all round and a brake fluid flush.

The above will give a full brake refresh essentially and just give the calipers a good clean, I do spot a rear caliper is brand new, its bright silver, whereas the other three are black/dirty.
 
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Remembering when I stuck some Brembo HC discs, yellowstuff pads and braided lines on the front of my old 172, went from stopping well to stopping better :).

Wife didn’t like it after that though, said it felt like it broke ‘too hard’ :p

I loved my old phase 1, wish I’d been able to keep that at the time.

Part of me would like another, but not sure if it’s a case of remembering it being better than it was! (Plus I’d have to actually find a decent one, no easy task).

Did have a lot of fun in that car.


It is a lot of fun, just given it a full on paint cleanse, polish, wax and then sealant, plus all door hinges and stops etc.
Then took it for a drive, it is huge amount of fun for sure, has some quirky handling characteristics due to the 4 miss matched tyres, particular in fast right hand corners you can feel the front tyre been pulled of the rim with it been a soft winter tyre on front passenger side, still fun.

Yes shall probably use EBC yellows too, I'd not normally recommend such a brand but I've always found the yellows to be a great pad, excellent road manners, low noise, low dust work great from cold but are also pretty good for track work too.
 
Hi there

No real work progress on the car today as no parts arrived, still waiting on upper engine mount and a new number plate lens for rear bumper, probably land next week whilst I am in Germany.

So today it was time to properly clean the car further, so washed all the hard to get places like boot shuts, door shuts etc.


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Then the car had the following process, all by hand:
1. Meguiars paint cleanse
2. Meguiars polish
3. Autobrite filler wax
4. Carplan no.1 sealeant


The car has gained so much more depth to the paint, not only that the paint is full of a pearl effect that was not showing so much when I collected the car, but now it really pops in the sun:



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Then decided to go and drive some of my favourite roads, can really make the tyres squeal for life when throwing the car around corners, it skips, understeers and then just holds on like crazy, the best word to use is fun. Then driving home I parked up and grabbed a few more quick photos:


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The miss matched tyres can certainly be felt, fast right hand corners the car is less stable, no doubt caused by the soft winter tyre on the front left which also has a smaller contact patch. Also a little squirmy under heavy braking again no doubt the tyres and no doubt same reason for torque steer. The brakes are good though, as I think there is maybe a wheel bearing issue am planning to just fit Brembo HC disc all round, the rears come with new bearings and fit EBC yellow all round.

Once rest of bushes, wishbones and track rods are done, with wheels refurbished with some stickier rubber should be even more fun. :)
 
Gibbo, interested to know if hooning around in this today made you question/rethink your approach to choosing your more expensive car at all?

Having owned a Clio 182 previously, and then owning/driving more powerful cars since I still haven't had as much fun on a drive as I experienced on a daily basis in the Clio. Just curious as to whether you still enjoy the big powered Jag/Mustangs as much now on the roads. Sinking your foot to the floor and reaching instant ban speeds within seconds can't be as exciting as throwing this cup around at legal-ish speeds can it?


There are different aspects of fun, not one single car can give you everything, let me try and summarise the three cars:

Clio: a small twisty back road, National speed limits and even roundabouts. Your in the throttle so much longer, your driving way beyond grip nearly all the time and generally throwing it around like a go kart. Yes it’s lacking on the straight bits even though it’s not slow hits 60 in around 6.5s and pulls to a 100 quite well. But on a back road your on it 110% and it’s a thrilling ride, it’s just the right amount of raw to compare it with a Caterham, but still OK to cruise. Best of all it cost a couple of grand and can pull 50mpg on a run plus it’s not bad when thrashing it. Fun factor on a country road is epic and your generally around the speed limit. The Clio attracts no attention apart from annoyed pedestrians giving you hand jestures for having the tyres screaming for mercy, I respond with a thumbs up which just puzzles them. :D
The fun come from how it revels to be driven so hard and is such an enjoyment to do so and of course it’s easier and more fun at low speeds, it’s rare you break into triple digits.

M3: the induction noise is on another level, it so firm, so flat, yet rides better than Clio but that is the result of expensive coilovers they ride better on the road and perform better. Doing skids, drifts and the sequential gearbox all make it such an incredible car but on the road it’s more a wet weather fun car to keep speeds lower and to enjoy some sideways action. The M3 has incredible ability but is also silly fast, but as a track car it’s amazing but it should be I’ve spent thousands on it. The M3 also gets a lot of recognition and respect from other motorist which I guess shows what a recognised pedigree of car the M3 is.

SVR: The looks, noise it’s a car that is shouty and gets a lot of recognition from all road users and pedestrians, it’s on a par with the Mustang there. It’s ability is insane, it handles like an EVO but goes like a GTR, but it’s playful so you don’t need to drive flat out all the time. The acceleration is mind boggling and the whole theatre of the car on another level, plus it’s an incredible place to sit.



That’s a quick summary, they all deliver in different ways but they should as one is AWD V8, RWD S6 and a FWD 4 pot.


P.S. can’t write much as in the airport. :)
 
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Sorry for the delay getting back to you!

Yeah I'd recommend going with genuine on the discs as they have the bearings built in and will last. A lot of the cheaper bearings don't last too long. Alternatively you can try and find the discs made by SNR as they make the gen bearings.

One thing I did notice from the engine bay pics is the positive battery terminal cover is broken. I know you like the little details so when you get round to it -

https://www.kamracing.co.uk/car-tun...lt-oe-battery-terminal-cover-rs172-rs182.html

or

https://www.renaultpartsdirect.co.u...clio-172-182-battery-positive-terminal-cover/


The genuine disc have the ABS ring included though, so are they the same?

Assume I can just remove the ABS ring?

So would you recommend then:

Front Brembo HC disc with yellow stuff
Rear genuine disc with yellow stuff
Ate blue fluid
Goodridge hoses
Rear disc bearing spacers
Rear hub nuts

Missed anything?

Yep noticed battery cover was leaving the little touches until last like that :)
 
Yeah they are the same, just leave the ABS ring on it won't do anything.

Looks good, I've never used EBC pads so up to you on that. Rear pads I would just run standard as they record so little effort its not really worth uprating. Can get Pagid rears for about £17.

Your old rear discs should already have the spacer already behind them and they are reusable.

Get the hub nuts, torquing to 175nm is essential.

Ok don’t need to worry about brake balance by running a track pad up front and a standard pad in rear?

Assume you ran DS2500 front and stock pad in rear then?

Also I see Brembo fronts that are grooves or drilled, same size but double the price so are these just same disc but with holes for twice the money or is there more to them than that?
 
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