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- 27 Sep 2004
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Carbine said:
Pure Innovation
- Thread starter Carbine
- Start date
That's cos all the parts folks buy with Alu in are available elsewhere made in Delrin, therefore problem removed... those who tend to go out and use Alu without researching who haven't heard of the "problem" tend to be those who don't research their additives either, and thus later down the line end up with ridiculous amounts of corrosion whereas a bit more patience and reading would tell them exactly how to do it and what to use and not use. Basically, Alu in loop means you're never gonna keep your tubes clean, as it means you HAVE to use additive, and you WILL get buildup. Ultimately the more alu you use the more additive you need, and the more frequently everything will need draining and flushing to keep the entire system clean and running optimally in comparison to a system with no Alu and therefore no additives. If precautions aren't used in a rig containing mixed metals, eventually rad tubes and water channels in blocks end up blocked with manky sludge... aluminium surfaces end up pitted and dotted with corrosion (whether anodised or not - tis irrelevant - none of the anodised hardware out there is anodised perfectly enough. Slightest spot not anodised perfectly, corrosion gets through and eats away from beneath the anodised layer)
Then there's thermal expansion differences. Aluminium reservoirs with threaded perspex tubes tend to split over time due to the difference in the rate the two materials expand and contract under heat... and this can also cause problems in lesser quality blocks using copper bases and alu tops.
S'a balance of buying for looks, buying for efficiency all round, and buying for performance. Alu parts just fall into the "looks" bin, none of the others. Far easier just to avoid any Alu in the first place when all the same or similar parts are available without Alu.
Carbine said:Coming
Just fixed the pump. i Just need some more de-ionised water now and i'm strapped for cash as my phone bills have arrived.
Pics hopefully tomorrow
Which is better de-ionised or distilled water?? always wanted to know... and where do you get it from mate??
Also you better have pictures tomorrow
Stelly
I always use deionised, its soooooo cheap (battery water basically) and very readily available, asda, tesco, halfords etc etc.
I keep 2ltrs spare all the time (about £2 worth) because you never know when you might dream up a stupid idea at 1am..
iirc seeing as its deionised its also non conductive although it will pick up ions over time, its handy to know your initial leak testing can go pretty disasterously wrong and not affect much.
I keep 2ltrs spare all the time (about £2 worth
) because you never know when you might dream up a stupid idea at 1am..iirc seeing as its deionised its also non conductive although it will pick up ions over time, its handy to know your initial leak testing can go pretty disasterously wrong and not affect much.
matt100 said:I always use deionised, its soooooo cheap (battery water basically) and very readily available, asda, tesco, halfords etc etc.
I keep 2ltrs spare all the time (about £2 worth
iirc seeing as its deionised its also non conductive although it will pick up ions over time, its handy to know your initial leak testing can go pretty disasterously wrong and not affect much.
What is the difference between distilled and deionised??
Stelly
well... I'm no scientist but iirc deionized has been passed through some sort of a filter to remove all the ions which purifies it a bit and makes it non conductive.
Distilled (again iirc) is boiled and all the condesation is collected and rebottled, during the boiling process all the impurities etc are removed along with the ion content.
Basically its purer but a lot more expensive and in the long term does very little to impede algae etc.
Distilled (again iirc) is boiled and all the condesation is collected and rebottled, during the boiling process all the impurities etc are removed along with the ion content.
Basically its purer but a lot more expensive and in the long term does very little to impede algae etc.
Or you could just say both are pretty much the same thing( pure water without all the mineral cr*p in it)... does the same job anyway.
There are plenty of places where you can get this water. Most obvious are car shops/Halfords/Petrol Stations.
Just buy Car battery water or something. They are very cheap. Local places near me sell them around £1 for a big bottle.
EDIT: BTW just curious why is 'F T W' aka For The Win swear filtered??
There are plenty of places where you can get this water. Most obvious are car shops/Halfords/Petrol Stations.
Just buy Car battery water or something. They are very cheap. Local places near me sell them around £1 for a big bottle.
EDIT: BTW just curious why is 'F T W' aka For The Win swear filtered??
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Hehe.. no new pics at the moment.
Not till tomorrow anyway, my new Logitech G15 and my Aquadrive arrives tomorrow.
One thing which bugs me is whether to spray (fliptone/prismatic) my case now or later? Ideally i want it to be ready berofr i head off to i28 :/
Not till tomorrow anyway, my new Logitech G15 and my Aquadrive arrives tomorrow.
One thing which bugs me is whether to spray (fliptone/prismatic) my case now or later? Ideally i want it to be ready berofr i head off to i28 :/
fliptone and prismatic is the same thing. Just Prismatic is the proper work for pearlescent colours.
No need for explaining, there are many examples... say a TVR Tuscans colour:
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From the local dictionary:
No need for explaining, there are many examples... say a TVR Tuscans colour:
From the local dictionary:
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Soldato
- Joined
- 7 Feb 2004
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- 8,228
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- North East
its the colour change as you look at it at a different angle thing
and actually, these are not TVR colours, theyre Rover colours ...
Reflex Purple:
Chameleon Blue:
Spice:
Though obviously other companies mix em with the same effect
and actually, these are not TVR colours, theyre Rover colours ...
Reflex Purple:
Chameleon Blue:
Spice:
Though obviously other companies mix em with the same effect
