ramthor's monster build

There's a problem with their location....they're not in MY machine! :D ...and they need to be underwater (after testing!).
 
What programs would be best for testing?

That is why you bought two, right? One for you and one for me?! ;)

When I said testing, I meant more to make sure they're not faulty rather than benchmarking them. I'd try each one individually and 'test' them thoroughly with your favourite game...and maybe a beer :D

You'll need some sort of benchmark either as fps from a demanding game on ultra settings or something like Unigene Heaven or 3D Mark.

Then get both in, SLI them and check that it works and that the score/fps goes up significantly - it is unlikely to be double but it should be markedly better than a single card if the SLI is working properly.
 
If you're overclocking, it's also best to put the best overclocker as the top card due to it running a bit hotter than the bottom card.

A good time to do quick tests on that is while you're testing the other components while still on air
 
A few more bits arrived today:

5565ccf055.jpg

Guess where they came from?
5565ad1717.jpg


5565b92716.jpg


5565a03e6a.jpg


556586c6e7.jpg

Apologies for the quality of the pictures. There will be better ones from tomorrow on.



*** Please spoiler tag large images - thanks, Armageus ***
 
Last edited by a moderator:
If you're overclocking, it's also best to put the best overclocker as the top card due to it running a bit hotter than the bottom card.

A good time to do quick tests on that is while you're testing the other components while still on air

I know. That's one of my worries when building the parallel water block and have output on bottom. The hottest card gets the least water flow. But that's only theory. I will put it to the test.

Any idea where can I find a working board so I can use the holes in the mandrels to nail them to the board when bending?
 
Sorry. What Crinkleshoes said. Should have made it clearer that I meant test them on air before you go stripping the heatsinks off and watercooling them. In theory most manufacturers will honour the warranty if you put the heatsink back on for plausible deniability (they know) but you don't want all the work of stripping it, building it, swearing at it, stripping it again and rebuilding it with the air cooler!

They finally got the heat guns in?! :rolleyes: I gave up in the end and had to buy one from a DIY store - had to resist the temptation to buy the fancy one with digital adjustment of temperature for four times what I needed to pay for one :D

You might want to check the size of the Monsoon bending cord. I got the 13mm set and the cord was only about 8.5mm so too small for 10mm ID. Could be fine for the 16mm set, not sure. The cord should be a good fit; too loose and you'll get flattening of the tube at the bend. Too tight and you can't get the damn thing back out again after the bend. The cord I used eventually was a Barrow cord and it came in at 9.5mm - so olive oil only needed for double bends :D
 
I know. That's one of my worries when building the parallel water block and have output on bottom. The hottest card gets the least water flow. But that's only theory. I will put it to the test.

Any idea where can I find a working board so I can use the holes in the mandrels to nail them to the board when bending?

In theory the cards should get equal coolant...but that does rely on them being of equal resistance. In and out on the bottom card might skew it a little (vs in bottom and out top and parallel in between) but probably not all that much. It's one of those suck it and see things I'm afraid...but it's going to be much better than air anyway.

Board you can probably get from a DIY place. Both the major green and orange branded places often have a cut-to-size service so you might get an off-cut as you're not fussy what it is.
 
They finally got the heat guns in?! :rolleyes: I gave up in the end and had to buy one from a DIY store - had to resist the temptation to buy the fancy one with digital adjustment of temperature for four times what I needed to pay for one :D

I went through a similar process. The fancy guns look cool but then I realized I will not use it all that much for anything else so I calmed down. Not worth it! :)
You might want to check the size of the Monsoon bending cord.

It's fine. I also ordered the EK saw kit which comes with 2 cords for 10 and 12 ID. Since the tubes were bought from them I expect the cords to fit perfectly.
 
Shouldn't the Monsoon heat gun have come with an UK plug adapter? It hasn't. But there were the gloves in the same box with the gun which was unexpected.
 
Looks like no. Bought separately, yes but as part of the kit it's not mentioned. Either a separate adapter required or lop plug off and wire a UK one on - presuming you're a qualified electrician for safety reasons, obviously.

If you're using the cutting mandrel be careful, it's really easy to start cutting into the aluminium.
 
The title reads: "Hardline Pro Heatgun w/ Adapter" so I assumed it's the plug adapter but it's actually the nozzle adapter. It's no biggie because I happen to have lots of plug adapters but maybe future buyers be warned.
The gloves were an unexpected bonus as they are not mentioned anywhere in the description.
 
I know. That's one of my worries when building the parallel water block and have output on bottom. The hottest card gets the least water flow. But that's only theory. I will put it to the test.

Any idea where can I find a working board so I can use the holes in the mandrels to nail them to the board when bending?

The difference between in and out on the bottom card and in bottom out top should be minimal.

The only real difference there will be gravity... but given the pressure from the pump overcomes gravity significantly, the the g factor is so small it will be negligible.

The fluid will follow the path of least resistance... so as the bottom card starts to fill, the pressure will increase and it'll start to fill the top card then as the top card fills more and the pressure is higher, it'll fill the bottom card etc until both are full.

When they're both running and full... the pressure to each will be practically the same, so the liquid will go through both.

The difference between top/bottom output will be minimal, I'm sure.

In theory the cards should get equal coolant...but that does rely on them being of equal resistance. In and out on the bottom card might skew it a little (vs in bottom and out top and parallel in between) but probably not all that much. It's one of those suck it and see things I'm afraid...but it's going to be much better than air anyway.

Board you can probably get from a DIY place. Both the major green and orange branded places often have a cut-to-size service so you might get an off-cut as you're not fussy what it is.

Yup :)

Shouldn't the Monsoon heat gun have come with an UK plug adapter? It hasn't. But there were the gloves in the same box with the gun which was unexpected.

Mine came with EU plug, too.




My custom cables arrived today :)

IMG_0402 by CosmicLogos, on Flickr

IMG_0418 by CosmicLogos, on Flickr

IMG_0420 by CosmicLogos, on Flickr

IMG_0425 by CosmicLogos, on Flickr

IMG_0404 by CosmicLogos, on Flickr
 
Last edited:
Looking really nice!

I see you went with EVGA HB Bridge. Slim chances of EK to come up with one eventually even though they announced it a while ago, I think.

I will probably have to go same route since the original nVidia ones don't fit with the EK blocks but now I see they are out of stock on EVGA EU site.
 
Yeah, I like the look of the EVGA one and there was no ETA on the EK and didn't want to wait. I like that you can change the colour of the EVGA bridge - so you can set it to red or blue for your build.

EVGA have been out of stock of it since before I started thinking about this machine... signed up for notification, but none have become available.

I got mine from elsewhere.
 
Just a polite reminder, but can we ensure all large images are Spoiler Tagged and that images shouldn't be quoted in this subforum - relevant rules are here.

Thanks - Armageus
 
Back
Top Bottom