Discussion in '3D Printing' started by Cenedd, 30 Jun 2020.
looks ridiculous dude - can't wait to see the finished product!
So I currently have a FLSun QQ-S pro which originally came with a motherboard with built in A4988 stepper drivers recently I have bought and installed FLSuns HiSpeed board that adds removeable drivers so I now have 2208s which are very silent compared to the A4988s. My next round of upgrades is going to be a full mod to a SKR 1.4T with a raspberry Pi 3b+ running octoprint, the community around this printer is actually quite active so i have been able to download a fews stl files that should be very handy including a way to mount the pi underneath a new custom motherboard tray which then has the SKR1.4T on top with room for two buck converters, should hopefully be documenting this upgrade in the new year but will link the thingiverse page here so you can see what i hope to accomplish. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4290912
Ive been working on this quite a bit these last few days... Its a custom built by @deuse d-bot.
Really all it needs is a rewire, everything works just as it is but if im rewiring it anyway I have decided to use some of the parts i already have so am upgrading it from ramps to a btt skr 1.4 turbo with the btt 35 lcd. I am also going to upgrade the bltouch to the latest version while I am there.
First up I printed these mounts for the psu...
Wired the additional plug out so the board and 220v bed all work off the socketed plug on the device.
Im waiting for a universal ground block and a couple of reels of cable to arrive but im enjoying this. The plan, solder new wire to everything and make the perfect length cables for all of the mounted electronics at the bottom. Just printing a case for the board, distribution board mount for some electronics and trying to plan out all the runs to keep it as clean as possible.
@deuse Just been doing a little more today, again just using all the bits I already have laying around. First of all i made a little shelf out of the old bed for my fake i3 to house the thermostat and some electronics.
I then printed a bracket for the current board as well as the btt 1.4 (I know deuses firmware is good so its going back together as it was just with cleaner wiring before it gets it's updates).
Alongside I have also been flashing the skr board with everything I know it needs. I spent a while measuring the offsets for the bltouch so will just program the new board for the upgraded version straight off the bat. First things first, lets get it all rebuilt with clean wiring and move along from there.
That's coming along great dude
Thanks for the pictures...
I did see the first pictures.
I recently bought a couple of these 0.4mm nickel-plated copper nozzles to try on my CR-6SE. Work well on a cube test print although I think the nozzle temperature might benefit from being dropped a few degrees. They're supposedly non-stick thanks to the plating, but the end is fatter overall compared to the original which required a little surgery to the silicone sock. Hope they last well because I could have bought 10 brass ones for the price of one of these lol.
also... stocked up on a little extra filament over the past couple of weeks thanks to special offer prices
81c is exactly where it was, that was just letting it do it's thing. seemed to settle around 80.
More wiring has been done!! Switched the bracket up, done a few bits! It's coming along nicely.
So far everything is mounted, the bed, power and LEDs all wired in. Call it a night there and go back to it tomorrow.
I will give those nozzles a try. Have you got a link?
I bought some PLA Extrafill Wizard's VooDoo
Worth looking in to?
That is coming along very nice
Copper nozzles I bought: https://www.3djake.uk/brozzl/mk8-nozzle-copper-plated?sai=6178
Those steel ones are really cheap so I guess worth a punt at that price. I have one hard steel Volcano nozzle which I've not actually used and a bunch of cheap stainless steel ones also sat in a bag, it's not something I would use on a daily basis. I only bought it for carbon filament (which I haven't even bought yet lol). Chances of damaging your bed are high if you make a mistake with your Z-offset, and they don't transfer heat well so don't bother trying to print fast with one These plated copper ones are also (alegedly) good for abrasive filaments but have the advantage of excellent heat transfer.
I bought a few.
I will saw one up when they come.
With the CR6 you can't damage your bed.
Have up tightened the screws under the glass bed?
I heat up the bed to 60c and then do the auto calibration.
Always been spot on.
I would think plated copper would be more prone to wear than the alternatives. Anything abrasive is likely to wear down the plating and then it’s just warm copper vs abrasive filament. However, I’m only speculating.
I would agree. Nickel is nowhere near as hard as tool steel but I guess it's harder than brass, so it may survive the odd print with abrasive stuff that would kill a brass nozzle inside a couple of hours.
I don't know how it happened but one of the first 20mm cube test prints went wrong, not only too close to the bed but the Z motor didn't work so it just went over the same outline several times! The marks on my bed from that are permanent Never did it again so I really have no idea what happened. If that had been a tool steel nozzle the bed would have been ruined.
I checked every nut and bolt to make sure they was tight.
The screws under the bed was lose...and a load of other bolts.
You know the 4 things that hold the glass in place.
Look underneath to make sure there is Kapton tape.
It can cause a short if there is no Kapton tape....
And cut the red wire in your usb cable
And cura is missing a M420 S1 after a G28.
Had my CR6-SE just over a week now, checked bed first after reading about it and at first it seemed fine (after adding the above to the cura start gcode) but then had a print that was too close to the bed, not sure if there was nozzle contact or not but it was sticking/breaking (the part) on removal until I investigated and found the lead screw bits on the gantry were loose and allowing one side to lift up during the bed levelling which was the issue, now it's doing the same print perfectly \o/
Struggling to get PETG to print without stringing though, PLA prints fine with the default cura generic PLA... Tried various things and definitely improved it but not perfect, but it's good enough now that with some sanding/filing after printing to remove the stringing does the job...
Up the temperature to 230c for PETG.
Heat you your bed to 60c then do a auto bilevel.
Then press home and make sure you can get a piece of paper under the nozzle.
I am happy with the CR-6, but for a 24V printer it should be faster.
I've tried quite a few temps/settings, 230 did seem to be the sweet spot for temp trying between 210-250, 210 was just plain too low, 220 just about worked but 230 seemed best. Bed temp I settled on 70, although had very few initial layer(s) problems. Also tried retraction distance and speed, coasting etc and a few other options. Made some good improvements over the initial attempts but not been able to completely irradicate the stringing.
What I'm left with is pretty minor, it's like a really fine 'hair' at points that's pretty easy to get rid of, but still PLA seems a lot easier/better...
I used this mod to stop the stringing. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4688613/files
I picked the middle one.
Or this one https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4660795
A great video to help people.
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