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Random 3D printing chatter

Discussion in '3D Printing' started by Cenedd, 30 Jun 2020.

  1. deuse

    Capodecina

    Joined: 17 Jul 2007

    Posts: 23,489

    Location: Solihull-Florida


    I'll start to print the fixed file in the morning.
    There was a lot of errors in Meshmixer.

    Just hope it works.
     
  2. Cenedd

    Wise Guy

    Joined: 4 Jun 2007

    Posts: 2,189

    Location: Watford, UK

    I'm after some sanity advice please guys. I've got a 0.2mm nozzle on now and a glass bed. I resorted to adding some hairspray to the bed because of adhesion issues. It seems that whatever I try to fix issues seems to make something else worse.
    I've raised the bed to 70 and the nozzle to 220 and for a while, it seemed to be extruding and sticking. Trouble is that it seems to stop extruding properly and start a thinner a less consistent bead. You can see what I mean if you compare the top outer perimeter to the circles in this pic.
    I'm assuming this is a partial nozzle clog? What can I do to stop that? I've already raised the temp and tried bringing retract down from 1.5mm to 0.5mm - which of course resulted in more dribbling. Should I be turning off retract entirely?
    I did notice that the extrusion seemed to be being laid onto the bed rather than extruded onto it - ie it is extruded slightly above the bed and drops onto it. Fine for straight lines but turn a corner and it doesn't stick well. I've levelled the bed to A4 thickness, then moved the entire print to the back edge because the middle still seems like a larger gap than the corners. I've then tried giving all the bed wheels about an 1/8th of a turn to reduce the gap. I've read there are offsets that perhaps I should be looking at instead but I'm not really sure where to go with that. I did try reducing the first layer height in the slicer but I'm not sure if I'm in the wrong place.

    Oh, before I switched nozzles, I printed a calibration cube. 20.0, 20.0, 20.4 (rounding to 1 dp). It would seem the Z axis is off but I'm not really sure what to do about it. Any hints?

    Thanks in advance.
     
  3. bulb66

    Wise Guy

    Joined: 12 Jun 2005

    Posts: 1,634

    Location: Suffolk

    See if this video helps.

     
  4. deuse

    Capodecina

    Joined: 17 Jul 2007

    Posts: 23,489

    Location: Solihull-Florida


    Your bed is not level.

    Look at Bilb66 video. He has a bed leveler fitted.
     
  5. bulb66

    Wise Guy

    Joined: 12 Jun 2005

    Posts: 1,634

    Location: Suffolk

    Little bit of printing.

     
  6. Cenedd

    Wise Guy

    Joined: 4 Jun 2007

    Posts: 2,189

    Location: Watford, UK

    @bulb66 Do you mean the part about a geared direct extruder? Are you saying that the problem is that my extruder isn't able to push hard enough to get it through the nozzle?
    My extruder is single drive (one toothed, one idler) and ungeared. I've definitely had it fail to push the filament when there were too many retractions and it chewed up the filament enough to make it too hard to get down the tube.

    @deuse I think you're right but the immediate issue is that it won't extrude. Have to get over that hurdle before the bed level makes any difference at all. I suspect there is some sort of Z offset where the nozzle is lifted away from the bed after homing and before printing. I'm not sure if this is in firmware or in slicer (first layer height or other) though. I know my bed isn't flat and I suspect the 4mm glass bed I've got either also isn't flat or is dipping where the bed dips. I also think I need to look at bed stabilisers since it's quite springy on the side away from the rail and that makes it hard to level. I may have to mount a dial test indiacator on the head and see if I can do any better.
     
  7. bulb66

    Wise Guy

    Joined: 12 Jun 2005

    Posts: 1,634

    Location: Suffolk

    It's going to be a combination of things, but as E3D say in their blog a geared extruder is essential. You don't say what layer height or print speed your using either they are also important. I've personally not printed with a nozzle smaller than .3 so I don't have any first hand experience of going small.

    What printer do you have? What slicer, etc.
     
  8. deuse

    Capodecina

    Joined: 17 Jul 2007

    Posts: 23,489

    Location: Solihull-Florida


    I was going to get that file.
    But I'm not going to sign up for it.

    Will try and find it free as I want to print it.
     
  9. bulb66

    Wise Guy

    Joined: 12 Jun 2005

    Posts: 1,634

    Location: Suffolk

    It is free?
     
  10. deuse

    Capodecina

    Joined: 17 Jul 2007

    Posts: 23,489

    Location: Solihull-Florida




    Harvesting emails is a no no to me.
     
  11. bulb66

    Wise Guy

    Joined: 12 Jun 2005

    Posts: 1,634

    Location: Suffolk

    So you don't have a Thingiverse, PrusaPrinters or Cults account?
     
  12. deuse

    Capodecina

    Joined: 17 Jul 2007

    Posts: 23,489

    Location: Solihull-Florida


    Didn't see it on thingivers.
    But my mate had, and so do I :)
     
  13. bulb66

    Wise Guy

    Joined: 12 Jun 2005

    Posts: 1,634

    Location: Suffolk

    It's not I don't think, my point is, what makes you think Thangs are harvesting emails? For all you know Thingiverse does (more likely given how it's run)

    Anyway you got the file? Get it printing.
     
    Last edited: 2 Dec 2020
  14. Cenedd

    Wise Guy

    Joined: 4 Jun 2007

    Posts: 2,189

    Location: Watford, UK

    ... and preferably with a 0.2mm nozzle so you can iron out the links and tell me how you did it! ;)
     
  15. deuse

    Capodecina

    Joined: 17 Jul 2007

    Posts: 23,489

    Location: Solihull-Florida


    Nope.

    Would take to long and carer won't be here.
     
  16. Cenedd

    Wise Guy

    Joined: 4 Jun 2007

    Posts: 2,189

    Location: Watford, UK

    Ah, sorry I missed the last sentence some how. Ender 5 Pro, using Fusion 360 as a slicer currently since it's convenient if I'm working on models to directly slice them to gcode. I've stuck a 4mm borosilicate glass bed on top of the existing bed but I'm not sure it's entirely flat still.
     
  17. bulb66

    Wise Guy

    Joined: 12 Jun 2005

    Posts: 1,634

    Location: Suffolk

    Well I don't have experience with Fusion as a slicer because..... Well I'd rather use something specifically made for the job, I had a look this morning and it's seems a bit disjointed to what I'm used to.

    Can you send me via trust a .gcode file you have exported.

    J.
     
  18. ChrisLX200

    Wise Guy

    Joined: 23 Jun 2004

    Posts: 2,128

    Location: Macclesfield

    Recently discovered there is a free MS utility that is pretty good at repairing broken STL files. Included with Win10 but has to be downloaded from MS website. https://www.microsoft.com/en-au/p/3d-builder/9wzdncrfj3t6?activetab=pivot:overviewtab
    It has successfully repaired a couple of files for me - notably a Mars Rover model off Thingiverse where the STLs are non-manifold (have holes in them). The app checks the file as it loads them and offers to fix it.
     
  19. bulb66

    Wise Guy

    Joined: 12 Jun 2005

    Posts: 1,634

    Location: Suffolk

    Join me in around 1hr for the live build & first print on the Think3Dim T22 Max Pro 3D printer. This printers main feature is quad strain gauge bed leveling.

     
  20. ChrisLX200

    Wise Guy

    Joined: 23 Jun 2004

    Posts: 2,128

    Location: Macclesfield

    Working on printing a model of the Mars Rover, biggest thing I've printed so far :) Just got the wheel hubs to finish, the treads are already done (seen to the left).

    [​IMG]