Yes, I just want to be able to switch nozzles with no tools and if the manufacturing tolerances are what they say they are not having to adjust the z offset between swaps will be a bonus.
Once the hardened nozzles come out, come on E3D pull your finger out, I’ll look at more “exotic” filaments and play with them.
Yes, I just want to be able to switch nozzles with no tools and if the manufacturing tolerances are what they say they are not having to adjust the z offset between swaps will be a bonus.
Once the hardened nozzles come out, come on E3D pull your finger out, I’ll look at more “exotic” filaments and play with them.
Yep, E£D Revo Micro. I’ve wanted to try different sized nozzles but after a huge blockage when I changed my Ender 3 S1 to an all metal hot end I had a huge blockage, caused by me being a n00b, which took me ages to sort out, so that put me off changing nozzles. The Revo system is ideal for me.
There is the Trianglelabs CHC Nozzle, and the option to use a 'TUN' nozzle. This is a nozzle and heatbreak in one piece. Not as easy as a REVO it seems, but definitely a neat choice as long as they make a variety of nozzles. https://trianglelab.net/products/trianglelab-unity-nozzle?VariantsId=10279
Thought it worth mentioning if people were looking for a cheaper alternative.
P.S. Been very pleased with my CHC ceramic nozzle system
I have Revo on my large CoreXY. Running a 0.6 on it at the moment.
My only issue with it is that its flow rate isn't amazing. About the same as a V6 with the standard nozzle and so is the limiting factor with print speed - about 120mm/sec with 0.6 nozzle at 0.2mm layer height.
My V6s on my other machines using a Bondtech CHT nozzle can go about double that.
OK, so a little bit of a random idea I had. I have a direct drive on my delta printer, and one of the things is that it needs to pull the weight of the spool to get more filament. That seems like it could affect quality.
I am thinking of designing/making something that unwinds the spool to get some slack to avoid issues of filament tension as the hotend is whizzing around. Thoughts, or ideas? I was thinking something like a very basic micro switch setup of when it gets pulled 'on' then it unwinds the spool some more. Obviously I have some things to contend with 1) Not damaging the filament. This is a LOW pressure application pre-hotend 2) Making sure the spool doesn't get tangled by being too loose. 3) It's another point of failure.
Just finished installing the Revo Micro on my Prusa Mini+ and the self test passed with no issues. Now to set the z offset for both my sheets.
The install was simple enough with the only real issue being unplugging the original hotend thermistor connector on the board. Either I’m useless, I can never totally rule that out, or it is a damn fiddly connector to unplug. At lease the Revo thermistor connector doesn’t have a stupid release tab. Also I hate wrapping cables with the cable wrap stuff.
Whilst I was at it I installed the Mad Monkey MM10 extruder mod so I don’t have to have brass olives on the tube.
Well yesterday was a fun day after installing the Revo Micro and using the MM10 mod for the extruder.
Setting the Z offset took a few goes as it turned out it was lower than the Z offset for the stock hot end which confused me, I am easily confused and get confused with the + & - nature of the Z offset, as I had to lower the Superpinda as it was higher than it was with the stock hotend. This had me convinced the Z offset should be smaller for for Revo Micro (stock on the Smooth PEI sheet was -1.250 and the Revo ended up at -1.300(though I'm now using the 0.6mm nozzle and currently that's at -1.305 but I think I can go a little lower)).
The extruder started clicking quite loudly during retractions and on taller prints I started to get some under extrusion. I swapped the mod on the extruder back to the original part but the clicking, and under extrusion, though not as bad, was still present. Gave up last night but this morning I took the extruder apart, that's the beauty of building my Mini from the kit, I am not afraid to take it apart, and reset the position of the stepper motor, by fractions of a mm I think, so the gears meshed better and this seems to have solved the issue. After some test printing I decided to give the 0.6mm nozzle a go,
0.6 will now be my main nozzle as I am very impressed
, and printed a couple of cali-dragons, one standard size and one at 200%.
These dragons were printed at 0.2mm layer height with a decent time saving for the same layer height with the 0.4 nozzle. I have to sort out the stringing but yesterday evening, after the clicking & under extrusion hassle, I ordered the Bondtech IFS Extruder and when that arrives, and is installed, I'll sort out the stringing.
All I have to do now is change to the textured PEI sheet and set the Z offset for that, but that can wait for another day.
Overall extremely happy with the Revo Micro and I look forward to hardened nozzles for it.
My Bondtech extruder arrived today and I haven’t been charged VAT. Bondtech didn’t take it and Fed Ex never asked for it. Hopefully I’ll never hear about it again. I shall install this on Saturday and then my Prusa Mini+ will be set up the way I decided it would be when I decided to buy one just over a month ago.
Finally got an estimated delivery date on my FLSUN V400 of October 17th. Ordered on pre-sale July 2nd so over 3 months of waiting lol. Most people thought it would much quicker.
I have been holding off advertising my paintball parts more widely due to waiting for this printer
Hi all hope I'm not cutting in here but can anyone recommend any slicing software that is compatible with Anycubic printers? I am having a bit of a nightmare with the anycubic software, though the printer its self is working fine. Any help much appreciated cheers!
Hi all hope I'm not cutting in here but can anyone recommend any slicing software that is compatible with Anycubic printers? I am having a bit of a nightmare with the anycubic software, though the printer its self is working fine. Any help much appreciated cheers!
Starting to feel like I need more print volume. Mk3s has done admirably, and spoiled me with its ease of use/features but I can't justify PrusaXL prices or wait times.
Any recommendations for a larger volume, reasonably priced, well featured printer? (Or is it a case of "you can pick two"?)
Probably yes, personally I'm not a fan of how some of the "budget" manufactures are operating right now so I'm not going to suggest any but it depends what "features" you want. Biggest loss will be customer support and overall quality.
Honestly if you really happy with a MK3S, anything else just isn't going to match it and why not way for the XL?
OK, so my madness with the completely over-the-top-throwing-money-pointlessly-at-it QQ-S Pro delta printer continues, in search of actually getting my delta to be dimensionally accurate.
1. I have now ordered a set of 304mm carbon zero backlash Magball arms from Hadyn Huntley at: https://www.magballarms.com/
I mainly ordered them and paid $100 because it is almost guaranteed to be done correctly, where as I could source the parts myself and have the hassle and risk of messing it up. He's been a supporter of the delta community as well, so heck.. have my cash I am currently designing a new effector for it, as this is substantially different to my setup. The nice thing about it, is I can just put 6 holes for the mag balls, in the plate and not even need to worry about complex angles on the effector side. If the ball had been on the arms side, it would be different. This is a first step. I am also designing 8mm bearing sliders, in lieu of me creating 12mm bearing sliders eventually, but that is a massive upgrade in itself and so this is somewhat half way.
2. I'm also adding 5015 fans into the design if I can manage it, and replacing the measly 4010's that came stock with it. I'm aiming for high-speed in this setup, so I think it will be beneficial in the long term.
3. I've also ordered a USB ADXL345 from Trianglelabs, as the others I wasted money on aren't working as I expected. I have actually bought some shielded thicker gauge cable to try one last time with the original accelerometers, but I'm not expecting miracles.
Once done, I'll put all the STL's on thingiverse as I did with my MKS SKIPR case/enclosure.
By Friday, as long as everyone pays, I should have paid off completely my FLSUN V400, 80% of that paid by printing niche paintball parts. I haven't even received the V400 yet though LOL. Hopefully by 17th of October.
Update: Officially have enough money from printing parts to pay off my V400 as of today Woo. That's pretty cool.
Edit: Still trying to design my own effector. Can't really decide between having the nozzle and heatsink dangle below the effector plate and having the DD sitting flush on top, or having the heatsink sit mostly above with just the nozzle and heater below. Makes the DD sit higher though, whilst making less of a pivot on the nozzle itself
Edit2: oooo received my 304mm magballs and magball arms in carbon fiber
I’m jealous. I’d love to build a Voron 2.4 or Trident but the wiring is not something I’d be comfortable doing even with something like a LDO kit. I’m red green colour blind and all my life I’ve avoided electrics so totally not confident I could do it.
I’m jealous. I’d love to build a Voron 2.4 or Trident but the wiring is not something I’d be comfortable doing even with something like a LDO kit. I’m red green colour blind and all my life I’ve avoided electrics so totally not confident I could do it.
I’m not sure, I’ll have to watch a few of the builds on YouTube for the electrics side. I agree with the building aspect, I really enjoyed building my Prusa Mini+ thought the Voron 2.4 is going to be on a completely different level.
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I am currently designing a new effector for it, as this is substantially different to my setup. The nice thing about it, is I can just put 6 holes for the mag balls, in the plate and not even need to worry about complex angles on the effector side. If the ball had been on the arms side, it would be different. This is a first step. I am also designing 8mm bearing sliders, in lieu of me creating 12mm bearing sliders eventually, but that is a massive upgrade in itself and so this is somewhat half way.
