It does drop the price, but as soon as I stick in some details on the left side it removes the discount.
Edit: added image
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Random 3D printing chatter
- Thread starter Cenedd
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It does drop the price, but as soon as I stick in some details on the left side it removes the discount.
Edit: added image
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Something to do with adding a shipping address ? This is mine after entering all detailsIt does drop the price, but as soon as I stick in some details on the left side it removes the discount.
Edit: added image
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Elegoo Centauri Carbon down to £259.99 now for their black friday deals. Shame it doesn't look like they will have a decent multi-filament system for it any time soon or I'd pick another one up to replace my A1 with AMS
It's 239
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Postage is not free....
This weekend I finally got around to converting my Ender 3 V2 to belt drive Z, been meaning to get it done for months.
Before, with the standard lead screw setup.
Lots of parts printed ready to go, all in PETG-CF. Bought a kit with the rest of the parts from Aliexpress.
Assembly
Once back together I printed some extrusion covers to help hide the cable running up the back for the Z motor now up top.
Great little upgrade, Z movement is now much quicker, no gantry sag, will eliminate any z-banding. Plus I think it looks really cool
Before, with the standard lead screw setup.
Lots of parts printed ready to go, all in PETG-CF. Bought a kit with the rest of the parts from Aliexpress.
Assembly
Once back together I printed some extrusion covers to help hide the cable running up the back for the Z motor now up top.
Great little upgrade, Z movement is now much quicker, no gantry sag, will eliminate any z-banding. Plus I think it looks really cool
Interesting. I'd always thought that a leadscrew would have been the higher standard there. I guess you're going to have some backlash on the screw and maybe less stretch on the belts than in my head.
Been fighting with some DIY to replace a single cracked tile in the bathroom. Got it off, THEN found the spares I DEFINITELY have in the loft, don't exist. *Facepalm* Found an almost perfect match so will have fun trying to cut that to size today. The 3D printing connection? I needed four tile spacers but with only two legs, so obviously I 'designed' and printed some...out of PETG-GF. Do they need to be that strong? Well no, but that was the lightest colour filament I had loaded (tiles and grout are white) and I couldn't be bothered to swap it out
Now that I've done that, of course a bag of tile spacers appeared...but that's life.
Been fighting with some DIY to replace a single cracked tile in the bathroom. Got it off, THEN found the spares I DEFINITELY have in the loft, don't exist. *Facepalm* Found an almost perfect match so will have fun trying to cut that to size today. The 3D printing connection? I needed four tile spacers but with only two legs, so obviously I 'designed' and printed some...out of PETG-GF. Do they need to be that strong? Well no, but that was the lightest colour filament I had loaded (tiles and grout are white) and I couldn't be bothered to swap it out
Now that I've done that, of course a bag of tile spacers appeared...but that's life.
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I went to Elegoo's website to pick up a couple of spare hotends for my Centauri Carbon as it was £16.99 for the first one and £16.19 for the second. I put two in the basket and went to checkout only to find they want £11.90 for postage. What a rip off!! I can get a couple of genuine ones from China for less and they will be with me in 7-9 days. I detest companies overcharging for postage so Aliexpress it is.
Yeah, belt drive doesn't immediately strike me as being more accurate initially. But as you said, there's backlash on the screw, and tensioned belts are extremely accurate.
Since switching to Klipper at the beginning of the year, this printer has been performing amazingly. 150mm/s with 3k accel with really nice quality prints. For what I use it for, I can't see myself ever needing an upgrade. I'm not interested in multi-colour prints.
Slicers then people. I've heard people mention (on this thread and elsewhere) Cura, Prusa and Fusion 360. What do you use and more importantly, why? An "I use slicer A because it's the first one I tried and it seems to work" is perfectly fine but "I use slicer B because I tried A and found it made the extruder fall off*" is probably more interesting.
SuperSlicer. Extremely customisable, and it's what I've become used to over the years having tried S3D, PrusaSlicer, Cura. The catch is PrusaSlicer is often ahead in terms of shiny features, but SS will give you more flexibility to tweak. Your choice.
To be fair, I mainly use my changer to select from four different colours/materials rather than for muticolour in one print. I have used it for inlaid text and it works very well as long as either the text is large enough or you switch down to a 0.2mm nozzle for more detail. Made some nice coasters to go with what I'm drinking
I can see multi-material being useful on occasion, and I'm thinking specifically a combo of say PETG and TPU in a single part. You'd need the two nozzle H2D and to use material interlocking (as I don't think they directly stick to each other) but for things like dust extraction nozzles it would work well.
The upgrade I wouldn't go back on is hardened gear and nozzle with a hot end that will handle higher temps. I'm getting really good results from TinMorry's PETG-GF (glass fibre) and it prints beautifully at 280°C although I believe it can go lower.
@Makhaira I'm currently using a combination of Orca Slicer and Bambi studio. Bambu because it goes with the printer and the alternative is to export G-Code to SD card (nope!). Lately though I've shifted to LAN mode with Developer mode so not everything goes via Bambi's cloud; it's all local. Printer was always on a guest network (either a trust or paranoia issue depending on your viewpoint!) but now is isolated from both my LAN and the internet. Location is done via MDNS which needs repeating across VLANs. Orca seems to handle it better with being told where it is once and the access code but Bambu seems to need the code for the X1 every time...but handles the A1 Mini fine. So Orca for the X1 and Bambi Studio for the A1 Mini.
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Sunlu's black Friday sale starts tomorrow so there should be some decent deals on there.
I just took delivery of the Bambu A1 AMS hub and an AMS2 Pro. I order these now that the A series supports the full AMS.
I've got two AMS2s on my H2D and an AMS1 on my X1C. I have an AMS Lite on my A1 Mini.
The plan is to put the new AMS2 on the X1C and then put the AMS1 on the A1 and ditch the AMS Lite.
I've got two AMS2s on my H2D and an AMS1 on my X1C. I have an AMS Lite on my A1 Mini.
The plan is to put the new AMS2 on the X1C and then put the AMS1 on the A1 and ditch the AMS Lite.