Dehumidifying a garage is a fools errand IMO, they are anything but air tight.
Don’t overthink it, I use zip lock bags with a small amount of desiccant inside a 3d printed pot inside. Quick, easy, cheap.
For the cost of a single plastic cereal container I can get 10 spool sized bags with valves to suck the air out (I don’t both most of the time) delivered. Job jobbed.
Can I get a bit of help on a recurring end/corner lifting problem with my x1c again:
The part is the fronts for drawers for an under storage/poop bin. It is a thin long tall strip so is probably one of the worst shapes for lifting. Object is about 10mm deep and 200mm wide and 120mm tall, ish, I haven't measured it just eyeballing it.
Setup and conditions: x1c, door wide open and top window halfway back. Room temp 20C, chamber 28C. Bambu textured PEI plate at 55C. Aux fan 80%, part fan 100%, chamber fan 0. All stock bambu settings for bambu filament. Filament Bambu PLA white and green, freshly dried the night before inside the AMS2 for 8h at 55C.
Measures so far:
- I always clean the plate with hot water and fairy, between every print at the moment because of the lifting so it's not a dirty plate.
- dried the filament in the AMS2 with the spinning according to manufacturers instructions.
Where do I go from here? I've seen a lot of overlapping discussion and individuals' recommendations but nothing systematic and each has its own potential downside so isn't there a hierarchy of increasing interventions to try?
- raise build plate temperature but I'm already at 55 so quite close to heat creep, I don't want to just substitute one problem for another
- turn off aux fan but there's a reason bambu have it on as standard for PLA. Also, both parts lifted, one near the fan but the other one at the opposite end of x axis. On the timelapse it was around 60-90 mins you could start to see a bit of lift.
- print with a brim would probably do it to be fair but it wasn't in the profile and a lot of other people have printed these drawers and don't seem to mention needing to add a brim to the designer's profile.
- use a cool plate but that's just buying more parts, isn't the textured PEI universal?
The part:
Printing, both straight ends lifted within first 60-90 mins
Afterwards, also is there a bit of overextrusion halfway up the one in front? It didn't happen on the other part nor on the prime tower. Would you put this down to random luck or something wrong with calibration? I thought all the purge lines on the x1c automated that.
Slicer:
I'm reluctant to just do everything altogether at once because some of them can make their own problems and maybe somewhat naively I thought this part would work like everything else normally just does with bambu, no fiddling generally required.
This was attempt 2, the first one I abandoned because it was much worse. The only things I changed was clean the plate again again, and dry the filament, and it has turned out better as shown in the photos but still would like to reprint it as it'll be obvious
Dehumidifying a garage is a fools errand IMO, they are anything but air tight.
Don’t overthink it, I use zip lock bags with a small amount of desiccant inside a 3d printed pot inside. Quick, easy, cheap.
For the cost of a single plastic cereal container I can get 10 spool sized bags with valves to suck the air out (I don’t both most of the time) delivered. Job jobbed.
I’ve got two lots, some sunlu ones which the white valve and yellow/green press seal. The others are the generic ones with the blue press seal an and ‘sticker’ valve sold by hundreds of sellers.
It doesn’t matter if they don’t hold a vacuum (IMO), you are not going to be getting loads of airflow though a tiny pinhole somewhere and you’ve got desiccant in their to wrap up any moisture. I don’t even bother vacuuming them most of the time.
I’ve got two lots, some sunlu ones which the white valve and yellow/green press seal. The others are the generic ones with the blue press seal an and ‘sticker’ valve sold by hundreds of sellers.
It doesn’t matter if they don’t hold a vacuum (IMO), you are not going to be getting loads of airflow though a tiny pinhole somewhere and you’ve got desiccant in their to wrap up any moisture. I don’t even bother vacuuming them most of the time.
Thanks I'll check out the Sunlu ones, it's just for PETG colours I only use once in a while and while I've got desiccant in there I'm getting fed up of re-heating etc.
You might be fine; depends how well it was sealed and for how long. Give it a go and see if it's horrible. If it's soggy you might get more stringing or it could go brittle. If it prints perfectly, you've saved yourself a dryer cost.
Folks, I got my Sunlu PETG recently and I'm not sure of one thing as I tend to use PETG for single colour prints only. Am I correct in saying that mixing PLA+ and PETG on a single print via my AMS is a no-no? Ie a small multicoloured model that will use blue and white PLA, and black PLA for small details.
New Creality K2 Combo turned up over a week early, had to get it set up and fire out a couple of prints. First impression at standard speed is that it is lightning fast compared to my ender 3 V2 Neo.
It even had its first poops..aaah.
No but it depends what you're trying to achieve. They don't stick to each other well so if you're trying to use them as different colour parts of the same print, it's liable to go wrong either during or fairly shortly afterwards. On the other hand, if you want to use one as a support interface material (single layer between column of support and the actual model so it breaks away nicely but with no gap left like normal support) then it ought to work quite well. The caveat there is that you need to purge really well between filaments or you'll end up with it falling apart again.
No but it depends what you're trying to achieve. They don't stick to each other well so if you're trying to use them as different colour parts of the same print, it's liable to go wrong either during or fairly shortly afterwards. On the other hand, if you want to use one as a support interface material (single layer between column of support and the actual model so it breaks away nicely but with no gap left like normal support) then it ought to work quite well. The caveat there is that you need to purge really well between filaments or you'll end up with it falling apart again.
Spot on, most appreciated. Yes the print was going to be a single model consisting of multi-colour filament types. Essentially its a small cute shark that would consist of PLA blue and white with PETG black eyes/mouth as that is the only black I currently have. As you said layer adhesion would be an issue as well as the purge length between colour swaps so this is a no-go.
So what I'll do is use PLA Grey for the eyes, and a black marker to colour it in afterwards
I need to print the models in a hurry so new PLA won't arrive in time if ordered!
You might be fine; depends how well it was sealed and for how long. Give it a go and see if it's horrible. If it's soggy you might get more stringing or it could go brittle. If it prints perfectly, you've saved yourself a dryer cost.
I'm not sure if it was appropriate or not but I raised the roll of PETG over oil radiator for several hours, turning it every so often before loading it up. Seems to have printed fine!
I know that Bambu do a drying facility where you print a cover with some vents in the top and then use the heated bed to dry the filament. May work for you if you your printer can/will heat the bed and leave it hot without printing. Details here: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/general/bambu-filament-drying-cover
PETG wants about 60°C for a few hours to dry and ideally some airflow to carry away the released moisture. It might be that your rad gave it about the right temp and some airflow through convection. At the end of the day, if it printed ok, it's all good.
I'm not sure if it was appropriate or not but I raised the roll of PETG over oil radiator for several hours, turning it every so often before loading it up. Seems to have printed fine!
I'm looking to print a couple of accessories for the internal bits of my P2S. I want to start with some dessicant holders for the ams 2 pro and then an internal fan modifier to even the air flow internally. I'm thinking I'll print with ABS so I can continue to use the filament dryer function for pla and petg without worry of deformation etc. What's the best model on maker world people have used for the ams 2 pro? Quite a few options so would be interested in opinions here.
Lastly are there any other useful items for the printer I should consider whilst I have the ABS filament loaded?
I'm looking to print a couple of accessories for the internal bits of my P2S. I want to start with some dessicant holders for the ams 2 pro and then an internal fan modifier to even the air flow internally. I'm thinking I'll print with ABS so I can continue to use the filament dryer function for pla and petg without worry of deformation etc. What's the best model on maker world people have used for the ams 2 pro? Quite a few options so would be interested in opinions here.
Lastly are there any other useful items for the printer I should consider whilst I have the ABS filament loaded?
Download this free 3D print file designed by DjangoCashflow. AMS 2 Pro – Desiccant BoxRemixed and redesigned for the next generation of multi-material printingThis model is a remix of the Spillproof AMS Desiccant Box + Round Hygrometer by AeonJoey, adapted specifically for the AMS 2 Pro.The lid...
Honestly I've spent ages on the Bambu forums and facebook groups and I would avoid printing anything for the inside, from what I have seen they generally cause more harm then good. Bambu know what they're doing and all you're likely to do is introduce potential issues, desiccant holder in the AMS is obviously a non issue though.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
