Random 3D printing chatter

@Musty Pie

Welcome to the club, I'm new here too.

I prefer my A1 Mini to my A1 which I got shortly afterwards!

I'm still trying to find some software I can gel with. Tinkercad has a good tutorial if you want to try a few basic designs yourself :)

My fav print so far has to be my keyring holder thing, I haven't misplaced my keys once in 2 months!!
 
Just seen this on Facebook, it might help some people.......

⚠️
Security warning for MakerWorld / 3D printing community
I’ve found several recent model uploads containing malware disguised as a “3D File Preparation Tool”.
The downloads typically contain:
• ZIP inside another ZIP
• a .blend file
• an executable called 3D File Preparation Tool.exe
• an AutoHotkey script
• instructions claiming it converts models
There are no STL or 3MF files included.
Inspection of the script shows it extracts a hidden payload from the .blend file, runs PowerShell with execution policy bypass, launches a bundled Blender executable with auto-exec enabled, and then drops another file disguised as a converted model.
In short: it’s very likely malware targeting 3D printing users.
If you see downloads like this:
❌
Do NOT run the EXE
❌
Do NOT run the tool
❌
Delete the files
Only download models that include normal formats like STL or 3MF.
I’ve reported this to MakerWorld, but please spread the word so people don’t accidentally run these files.
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Musty Pie said:
On this, would any model thats auto opened into bambu studio for example, not run another .exe?
or would it always be preferable to download the files manually, then open / import them in after?
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I always download and import the file into Bambu Studio. But there's quite a few people starting out, still learning, and will probably click anything to get the print done.
 
My BIL just got a Bambu H2C, I'm seriously impressed. It's amazing how well it prints so accurately and cleanly put of the box.
What are the chances of there being some kind of sale or discount on these in the future like black Friday?
 
panthro said:
My BIL just got a Bambu H2C, I'm seriously impressed. It's amazing how well it prints so accurately and cleanly put of the box.
What are the chances of there being some kind of sale or discount on these in the future like black Friday?
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I think based on history your best bet is late June to early July for their anniversary sale.

Depending on what you envision using a printer for, a P2S is probably more than sufficient, and even with the AMS2 is less than half the cost

The increased build plate size is probably mostly a nice to have, and the dual nozzle can save time and waste with multi-colour/multi filament prints, but a lot of the other upgrades are really geared towards printing "engineering" materials (ASA, PPS etc) with the better filtering/extraction, higher bed temp, and higher nozzle temperature.
 
Just ordered my first 3D printer (well technically it's at Work)

Went for the Bambu Lab P2S Combo - hopefully a good choice for something that "just works" without too much fiddling.

Got plenty of I.T. related parts to print (rack brackets, pc desk mounts etc) and will hopefully grow from there (could see our site maintenance and vehicle workshop potentially having uses for it)
 
@Cenedd I seem to remember you being a fan of PETG-GF, is it good for making a bunch of in-spool desiccant tubes and for drying afterwards in the AMS2? I don't really want to faff with ABS or nylon buy for just some desiccant holders, though having said that they're about the same price and both need dried before use so maybe it's all the same.
Does the PETG-GF shed fibers in your hands?
 
Definitely a fan of the TinMorry stuff. Reasonably priced (often on offer too), strong, prints beautifully, holds threads, things with low gaps (like 0.1mm) fit together. Printed some tile spacers with it (it was loaded already and I only needed a few) and couldn't snap them by hand. Never had any issues with it seeming spiky or fibrous, never had any irritation. I tend to empty my desiccant out on a baking tray (covered with parchment) and bake it at about 100°C for an hour or so to recharge. That's too high for PETG or PETG-GF. I think you'll get a little higher temp with PETG-GF than straight PETG but not that high. You might well be able to dry it at a lower temp for longer.
 
Yeah I think I'd probably stick with baking them as you can set the oven to a higher temperature anyway. Where are you getting your tinmorry from? The rainforest? I remember someone on here got scammed a while back with an empty spool so just wanted to check :D
 
Yes, rainforest-sourced. Prices fluctuate between about £13 and 17. Think I've seen it has high as £23 but I could be imagining it. It's fairly cheap now conveniently....so another roll fell into my basket.

Edit: black is black, white is white...but the grey is much closer to white than it looks on the listing - could be fine if that's what you have in mind though.
 
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Nope. I started with the Bambu PETG-CF profile and just raised the nozzle temp to 280. There's definitely an argument it could be lower but I'm seeing no issues so I've not messed with it. My bed is 80°C (10 higher than normal) but I'm running a Lightyear G10 bed - great bed bit lousy shopping experience... although they may have been bought out by DarkMoon. Thicker plate, different material, bit more heat needed...good though.
 
Another TinMorry PETG-GF user, use it for nearly all my prints now, I use the Bambu PETG-CF setting for printing..... stuff comes out spot on.(Keep the filament dry I use mine @10-18% humidity)

Order from the rainforest when on offer(very often).
 
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Oh BTW I think I sorted out my bed adhesion problem with pla. I used a random bezos special smooth PEI for a bit but I don't really like the texture so I've gone back to the official textured one. As it happens I've been printing boxes for storing my veg seeds which are large, rectangular and a good candidate for lifting corners. Bed temperature up at 65 from the default 55 has nearly completely eliminated corner lift and the rest of the print looks OK. I wonder how well accurate the heat bed temperature is.
 
A cheap IR thermometer should answer that. I think mine was about 5° shy of what it was reading if I remember correctly.

Got a replacement front for my X1C's extruder. It's the upgraded fan I was after to be honest. The original stock one is known to be weak and the cause of bad overhang performances so I'm hoping this improves it.
Also got a replay filament sensor for the extruder because it keeps loading, rewinding, loading, rewinding and eventually throwing an error. It works if you push it in by hand so hopefully this will sort it - can't work out what else it could be.
 
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