Red oil light

Chris Wilson said:
DO NOT drive it, the risk of serious damage, or more damage is too great. Engines run with no or very low oil pressure don't last long at all....
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I've no intention of driving, just surprised he suggested that - doesn't fill me with confidence.

Just trying to get through to the AA...not looking good.
 
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Can't get through to the AA...on hold - I'd ask my mum to call a local service and she's booked it (£70+VAT to pick up and drop at garage and can be here just after 1). Still trying AA but I'm not sure I'll get anywhere.
 
Yulaw said:
Isn't that the same as most cars, once oil pressure is low and the engine has been ran parts are going to fail.
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On other cars there is always a chance it is a sensor or something else giving a false reading if the actual pressure is okay.

On the 1.0 ecoboost, unfortunately the most common reason for the oil pressure light to come on is the degradation of the wet belt, which then blocks the pickup and starves the engine of oil.

But yes, either way an engine which has been starved of oil is often knackered.
 
Robert said:
Can't get through to the AA...on hold - I'd ask my mum to call a local service and she's booked it (£70+VAT to pick up and drop at garage and can be here just after 1). Still trying AA but I'm not sure I'll get anywhere.
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I did read that the AA and RAC are getting smashed at the moment, due to the temperature :(
 
Talking of low oil pressure lights one Xmas a few years back an acquaintance rang me to say his VW Passat would put the low oil pressure warning light on when he revved it above idle when cold. As an excuse to get away from the usual junk on the TV I said I'd have a look. I don't usually touch things like that, and he's tight as a drum.

Turned out the oil pump is on the end of the engine and driven by an 8mm (from memory, maybe 10mm) hexagon shaft about 2 inches long. The corners were worn off both ends, but the female hex's were fine. I decided to do a Brinell test on the shaft (hardness test), and found it was soft as ****. So I made him one from a Facom Allen key, which are good stuff.

Engine's still running and turned 200k miles, 90k on a Facom oil pump quill shaft.

The worn shaft would slip when a load was put on the pump, such as revving with cold viscous oil, and the light would come on. It would manage a steady idle or hot oil :)

I was actually expecting to find a blocked oil pump pick up strainer.
:)
 
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Are there any key things that I need to quiz him on when he calls? I was going to check he'd done a pressure test at least.
 
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Robert said:
Are there any key things that I need to quiz him on when he calls? I was going to check he'd done a pressure test at least.
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Not really..

I mean you're at the mercy of the garage, you'll just have to let them work through it and get a diagnosis, until you have a diagnosis there's not much you can do. The garage will likely already know from the symptoms where to look.

It's one of those things which just requires some patience, and not to stress too much in the meantime.
 
I had a 3 cylinder 1ltr vauxhall Corsa that used to leak or burn oil (or both) and the oil pressure sensor was dodgy. I sort of plugged it with garden wire and electrical tape, and the oil light used to come on that now and then, remember running it down the A1 once and I could hear there wasn't enough oil before the light came on.

I also remember servicing it once and forgetting to put the oil cap back on, oooops.

Anyway, I only planned on keeping that car a year but things came up and ended up with it for about 4 years and it still worked.

Morale of the story is they are not that fragile, obvs not a good idea and this car I couldn't care less about, but goes to show you.
 
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