Retro console and games thread

dannycivic02 said:
Ok excuse the obscure highlights the red bits are what to me look like cracks the yellow is the flow as it is and the pink looks to me like it should have flow but doesn't due to the cracks as you have bypassed with the wire. Hope that makes sense but im sure you have done a continuity test right?
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The two upper red bits are not cracks, they are just the lacquer starting to wear away/or been scratched. There's continuity there as well, so even are they are small bits of damage, they aren't effecting the circuit.The lower red circle was a crack and had no continuity, hence the bypass with the wire, as that track should be connected to gnd via that cap, which is is now.

They wouldn't effect start anyway. Start is bypassing them to go to gnd through the cap, as it's set now, if they were broke (they are not), select would not work. Start would still be fine as it has a path to gnd through the wire.

Continuity is fine across everything now, the gnd pad of start has continuity to gnd, just refuses to work . Other side of start has continuity to the ic leg it is suppose to. Should work, but does not :(, thinking of just going from the ic leg for start, to gnd, if it works, still damage on board somewhere, if it does not, ic is damaged/dead.
 
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Ah I see misinterpreted the picture, worst case find a ****** looking controller and swap out the parts then at least you would still have majority of the original controller rather than replace.
 
dannycivic02 said:
Ah I see misinterpreted the picture, worst case find a ****** looking controller and swap out the parts then at least you would still have majority of the original controller rather than replace.
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Success for now :D. Problem fixed, start works great. Problem was I screwed up on my first look :(. Cap is not what takes the contacts to gnd. Gnd is coming from the other side of the board through the via. Cap + the gnd for start and select is connected to that. Even so, connecting to the cap, still should have been a solid connection to gnd. I think what was happening is the marks highlighted in red are hairline cracks, so when board is out and I'm testing, they are fine, when board is in and there is a bit of flex, they are opening up. Ran wire from cap to another gnd and all is fine :).

~>Dg<~ said:
not worth messing about snes pads are cheap

ive been down the repairing pads path like you :p
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Most snes pads I've seen online, seem a bit manky :(. Don't like admitting defeat either :D.
 
So all of my Megadrive gear arrived this week........i am utterly loving playing it again

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Super Off Road is still epic!
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Managed to win boxed versions of castle/world of illusion, zool, sf2 ce, mickey mania, skitchin, sonic 2 and Ecco 2 for £13.95 delivered as a bundle, so just waiting on those and another series 1 MD i won in Air Ambulance auction :)
 
I'm trying my damnedest to get an arcade cabinet for my original arcade games. I found a picture of the kind I'm after on Flicker . They are a Neo Geo MVS cabinet called Lordvale.

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Seems about the right size for an apartment to me. Weather or not I die trying to get one in my place will be another thing but it's a gamble worth taking if ones a real gamer.
 
Anyone know if anyone makes a decent shielded snes scart lead? One I have has an annoying buzz on the audio, that is proportional to the brightness of the picture :(. From a quick check online, seems it's because it's unshielded and so picks it up from the video lines running next to it.

All the ones on ebay seem to be the same cheap, unshielded leads. I know I can remove the caps from an official gamecube scart and that will work, but would rather not do it (removing the caps will stop in working on the cube).
 
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Meatball said:
Buy another Gamecube scart and modify it? :)
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Official gamecube scarts are hard to come by and are quite expensive. I see two official leads on ebay at the moment. One is used and £25, the other is new, but £40. The rest are the same cheap horrible ones like the snes ones. Too expensive. Can buy 8 core individually shielded mini coax for £3.99 for 1 metre. So would be cheaper to crack open the cheap one and rewire with that if I'm going to have to modify something.

Was hoping I wouldn't have to :(. Can't believe no one sells decent leads, it's like no one cares about picture/audio quality.
 
I grew up playing on SNES and 64, but sold them at the time to buy a PS1 and really got into Final Fantasy on that, so I've collected the PS Final fantasy series and a few other games on PS as I've gone on.

I miss some of my old nintendo games though so bought myself a SNES last Christmas and the GC and 64 just this month, so currently visiting the occasional car boot and putting cheeky bids in on ebay to see what I can get.

To answer your question though, not really loyal to either Nintendo or PS :)
 
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