Road Cycling Essentials

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[DOD]Asprilla;26456983 said:
Ditchling Beacon is my bitch. That is all.

Shamrock is 7s quicker, but he weighs nothing. After my dismal effort on the simulated Box Hill climb the other day I'm happy with 6.19.

I did a 5:32 up it today.:)

Strangely only captured by 3 out of the 10 or so segments all covering the same bit.
 
That's pretty much it! :) the problem IMO is that if it rubs on the pad it makes you go slower no? :)

Plus the front feels a bit "soft" when you get out of the saddle and start pumping...

I'm sure it does slow you down a very small amount when it rubs on the pad, that doesnt bother me.
I cant feel a wheel flex though. I can peak just over 1300watts in a sprint but i'v never noticed any flex or softness in the wheel. Of course, im certainly not the best bike handler and being in-touch with exactly what the bike is doing is not my speciality.
 
Going from my cheap training wheels to my carbon tubs, I can definitely feel a difference in stiffness but I don't know if it makes me tangibly quicker. I like the more positive feel it gives though.
 
I'm sure it does slow you down a very small amount when it rubs on the pad, that doesnt bother me.
I cant feel a wheel flex though. I can peak just over 1300watts in a sprint but i'v never noticed any flex or softness in the wheel. Of course, im certainly not the best bike handler and being in-touch with exactly what the bike is doing is not my speciality.

I felt it really bad on my stock wheels -; cheap as heck.

Shimanos were quite stiff but current campies flex/move around quite a bit over potholes. I can actually see the wheel flexing all over the place at high speed. I'm sure I'm not the only one.

Then again not many of you ride cheap bikes and maybe triban's stock carbon fork is rubbish but I can't see how a fork can flex this bad.

I don't out put that much power I'm sure, at least not for a good amount of time!
 
I'd be more worried about visible flexing being a result of the wheel being badly seated in some way, like if it was loose in the dropout, or at least loose enough to move under serious effort.
 
I'd be more worried about visible flexing being a result of the wheel being badly seated in some way, like if it was loose in the dropout, or at least loose enough to move under serious effort.

You'd think that.. But I always triple check my wheels after changing a tube/doing work on them.

Its a bit like rubber wheel haha! Hard to explain what happens and I guess at speed its more visible but it does move! :)

On that note.. Its still just as true as it was on day one? Maybe the fact that there's some flex has kept the wheels true after 5k+ miles - that's double the distance other wheel sets lasted.. :o
 
How do you know its the wheel flexing and not the frame twisting?

The difference between my Cervelo and my Giant is monumental in terms of stiffness even ridden on similar quality wheels.
 
Swapped out my Gator Hardshells (28mm) for Michelin Pro4 Endurance (25mm) tyres and whilst I was at it did a full overhaul on my Hy/Rd brakes. Finally worked out how to reduce the required cable pull properly on the Hy/Rds and now their braking is much sharper. Haven't had a chance to ride with the Pro4s in wet conditions yet (oh noes) but they feel nippy and grippy so my initial impressions are good.

Meant to be taking a break this weekend from riding to give my body a bit of a rest but I might head out for a short 20-30 miler later to give the bike a good test run :)
 
So I've narrowed it down to these 2 based on value for money and frame size. Opinions?

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The Canyon, though i am slightly biased i suspect. Lead times may be longer with the Canyon though, they are pretty backed up right now i think.
 
[DOD]Asprilla;26457098 said:
Which one is your 5.32 on?

Found it. Huge effort.

Cheers, good effort from you too. We still need to go out riding together at some point!

The Canyon, though i am slightly biased i suspect. Lead times may be longer with the Canyon though, they are pretty backed up right now i think.

I pulled the trigger on the Canyon last night. Reasons: I've already got a matte black carbon bike, the value of the Canyon at £2000 is hard resist, the Exocet is out of stock currently and would be closer to £3000 with the HED wheels.
 
Terrible race yesterday, after I broke my wheel I missed riding Friday when I was feeling good and it kind of threw me off my routine.

Then it was cold and hammered it down with rain before the start of the race, I was off from the block only a minute ahead of scratch. We had to wait for traffic and lost half that minute straight away. Got on the scratch group which was flying along, started doing turns but blew myself up and my leg felt like it was cramping maybe too much standing around getting cold before the start.

Turned around and watched the rest of the race.

Got out today and had a decent 2 hr ride, super windy making it tough going, but flew back to town. Should try and get some decent Kay's in the legs this week, two weeks until club championships. I have no chance of winning A grade but with any luck I'll be able to keep up!
 
KMC Masterlink - ARRRRRRGHHHH

I remember last time it was a pain to install. I ended up buying some link-removal pliers, but now I can't get it closed. I've tried the trick of installing it and stopping the wheel/turning the crank but it doesn't do anything!
 
How are you putting pressure on the crank?

I get on the bike, apply rear brake and then stand on the right pedal.

Easy.

What is hard is buying a TT bike. The same bike has been on eBay five times and not sold. Each time it goes up I ask if the seat post has been cut. Not had a response yet.

I'm beginning to think its a scam although there are so many retards about that it's hard to tell.
 
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[DOD]Asprilla;26459270 said:
How are you putting pressure on the crank?

I get on the bike, apply rear brake and then stand on the right pedal.

Bingo.

SRAM recommend a similar method when joining their power links, didn't have to put too much pressure on it for it to click together.
 
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