Road Cycling Essentials

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[DOD]Asprilla;21100705 said:
The main disadvantage of MTB shoes is that they are much less rigid. Flex contributes to hot spots and wastes energy.
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MTB cleats are also easier to get out of. Which is good if you need to get your foot down quickly on a muddy corner or if you are nervous of clipless pedals. But the lower tension which makes them easier to release also means they can pop out accidentally if you push too hard on them.

If you're using them for your commute where you wont be pushing too hard and you might have to walk more, mtb pedals probably make more sense.
 
Following on from the "**** Mountain Bikers say" video in the Big Bike Thread, there is now a road cyclists version.
I wont link to it because there are naughty words in the title (although the mtb was posted in the other thread and wasnt taken down).

Search on youtube for videos from "peopleforbikes".
I dont think it's as good as the mtb one, maybe its because they say different things in USA?
What would you guys include in the vid if you made it?

My vote would be:
"I'v been on the front all day"
 
touch said:
There should be a 'BCD' (or sometimes 'PCD') stamped on the chainrings. I would guess it's either 130BCD or 135BCD. Once you find that, you just need to find new chainrings which match the BCD and the number of gears you have on your cassette (8 speed?).

Depending on how small you want to go with the new chainring, you might want to get a whole new crank which can take smaller chainrings. You should be able to pick something up pretty cheap on ebay if thats the case.
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I couldn't find a BCD stamped on it anywhere, but looking up the info stamped on the cranks it would appear that the BCD is 130 (http://velobase.com/ViewComponent.aspx?ID=5d1f43ed-82ec-48d0-b6e2-65f92ecdfcbe)
So 39T is probably as low as I'll go, will that be significantly noticeable from the 42T?
If I was to look at new cranks that might not be square taper is the BB shell width and spindle length the only things I need to know if I wanted to change the BB too?
Finally any ideas how this would affect my front mech?
 
bam0 said:
So 39T is probably as low as I'll go, will that be significantly noticeable from the 42T?
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Yep, i think 39 is the smallest you can get with 130BCD. It wont make a massive difference. In the smallest sprocket on your cassette (assuming 11 tooth) pedalling at 90rpm, with a 42 chainring you'd be going 27.8MPH and with a 39 you'd be going 25.8MPH. The 39 would be slightly easier for going up hills, but not by much.
bam0 said:
If I was to look at new cranks that might not be square taper is the BB shell width and spindle length the only things I need to know if I wanted to change the BB too?
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Technically, you should check the threads (you can get english or italian threading) but it wont be an issue for you (you'll have an english thread).

bam0 said:
Finally any ideas how this would affect my front mech?
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Might need some slight adjustments, but you wont need a new one.
 
Bit of a strange one...

Has anyone got or can find actual pictures of the Specialized Allez Compact 2012 Road Bike in black or red (not the stock images... I always find they look different).

Turns out my frame is beyond repair and this is their recommended replacement^
 
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touch said:
MTB cleats are also easier to get out of. Which is good if you need to get your foot down quickly on a muddy corner or if you are nervous of clipless pedals. But the lower tension which makes them easier to release also means they can pop out accidentally if you push too hard on them.

If you're using them for your commute where you wont be pushing too hard and you might have to walk more, mtb pedals probably make more sense.
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I agree with you on the lower settings, however i've got my pedals set to 1/4 of the tension they are capable of and haven't had issues at all, even when standing and fighting with a steep hill. On the highest tension i can't see accidental unclips being an issue.

Do agree though that the shoes do flex a little which will obviously be wasted energy, but for me the ability to not have to carry spare shoes when i go everywhere outweighs this. But i cycle primarily for transport (but give it 100% wherever i go) and secondarily for sport.
 
I've got a pair of Shimano R077s already so I'm assuming I can just fit the Eggbeater cleats to those (I'm already using MTB pedals). And I could then buy a second pair of MTB shoes and a spare pair of cleats for commuting.
 
H0ax! said:
Bit of a strange one...

Has anyone got or can find actual pictures of the Specialized Allez Compact 2012 Road Bike in black or red (not the stock images... I always find they look different).

Turns out my frame is beyond repair and this is their recommended replacement^
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No, but a couple of thoughts:

- Ask them how you're meant to answer that without knowing what it looks like. Probably in a slightly more diplomatic way :p.

- Email Specialized and ask them for some.
 
Robbie G said:
No, but a couple of thoughts:

- Ask them how you're meant to answer that without knowing what it looks like. Probably in a slightly more diplomatic way :p.

- Email Specialized and ask them for some.
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Turns out my local bike shop have the red one in stock, just need to get down there... Not quite sure on the white tape and seat from the pictures lol^

Never thought about emailing them though, will do!
 
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Can't wait! Hope the brakes fits.
RDCYU.png
 
Russinating said:
I've got a pair of Shimano R077s already so I'm assuming I can just fit the Eggbeater cleats to those (I'm already using MTB pedals). And I could then buy a second pair of MTB shoes and a spare pair of cleats for commuting.
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Looking at those shoes they seem to be the 3-bolt road cleat style shoe, is this correct? If so Eggbeaters need the two bolt type. I believe you can buy an adaptor to make them work though.

How are you using those shoes with M520s already? I'm getting a little confused.

[EDIT] Just did my commute in those Nalini bib shorts everyone was recommending marked down from Planet X. Holy moly they're comfortable, way better than the DHB padded boxer shorts i usually wear. Shame they make me look like a weight lifter from the 60s. These are the ones, strongly recommended:

http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/CLNAPAS/nalini_palma_bib_shorts

Made the mistake of cycling this morning in the same underlayer that i cooked dinner in after a 4 mile run yesterday. I smelt like a bad Indian Takeaway.
 
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Streeteh said:
Looking at those shoes they seem to be the 3-bolt road cleat style shoe, is this correct? If so Eggbeaters need the two bolt type. I believe you can buy an adaptor to make them work though.

How are you using those shoes with M520s already? I'm getting a little confused.
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They've got holes for both 2 and 3 bolt types:

qDk6c.jpg
 
Ahha, perfect image that makes life much easier.

Yes those will work perfectly with eggbeaters then but obviously the cleat will be exposed. You can buy a cheap set of MTB shoes (like the ones i linked above for example) with some recessed eggbeater cleats which you should be able to walk around in. As you've previously said this will then make a good combo of having proper road shoes and shoes you can walk around in if you pop to the shops which will both work with your pedals.

With that said i don't know how 'tall' eagbeater cleats are, if they're taller than SPD cleats then they'll still make walking a bit of a nightmare as obviously the recessed bit is only as deep as a SPD cleat. If they're the same height it'll be fine, though you will get a very slight amount of grinding on concrete surfaces, but this won't damage the cleat or anything, it's just a bit of a worrying noise at first!
 
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I'd like to point out that for the Eggbeaters you can buy a 'rebuild kit' where you can replace and rebuild all of the delicate little parts that have broken. There is a reason for this and it's mainly down to them having a reputation for being made of cheese.

For commuting you are much better off with some spuds and M520s.
 
[DOD]Asprilla;21107046 said:
I'd like to point out that for the Eggbeaters you can buy a 'rebuild kit' where you can replace and rebuild all of the delicate little parts that have broken.
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Thats hardly fair. They may not be as durable as M520s, but i think you're making them out to be worse than they really are. The rebuild kits include bearings and dust seals, which will wear out on any pedal (or anything at all that has bearings) not "delicate little parts".

I would choose eggbeaters over M520s for commuting due to the ease of getting clipped in. 4-sided entry means the pedal is never the wrong way up.
 
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