Road Cycling Essentials

Status
Not open for further replies.
Good grief, my Kryptonite New York M18 came today and I didn't realise how heavy & big it would be.
I'll have to go work in the car tomorrow because I'll never get up the hills carrying that :D
I'm going to leave it locked to a metal fence at work.
The cable is 12mm which will go round my front wheel.

kryptonitem18.jpg
 
PardonTheWait said:
I ended up with a Boardman Road Team (the alu one) and it's really great, I like it a lot.

While they're quite plain it's a really nicely done frame and looks way better up close than from a distance, the attention to detail is excellent for the money.

All the finishing kit is really nice and the Carbon road team has all the same bits but a different saddle I think?
Click to expand...

I have the Road Team Alu too and would give the same feedback. Careful of the stem though, mine didn't seem to grip too well and needed just a tiny dab of carbon paste to keep it snug.

The only differences between the Road Team Alu and Carbon is indeed the saddle... and obviously an all carbon frame. I maintain though that the carbon seatpost and full-forks offered by the Alu still make it a surprisingly comfy ride for an alu frame.

Dimple said:
Good grief, my Kryptonite New York M18 came today and I didn't realise how heavy & big it would be.
I'll have to go work in the car tomorrow because I'll never get up the hills carrying that :D
I'm going to leave it locked to a metal fence at work.
The cable is 12mm which will go round my front wheel.

http://www.disturbinthepeace.co.uk/pics3/kryptonitem18.jpg
Click to expand...

Ya big wuss! :p I often cycle with an Abus Granite X-Plus (which weighs just a little bit more) and an Abus chain lock in my backpack. They don't add any noticable time to my commute at all, they barely add any weight in comparison to the huge mass that is a human being. Will admit though, after more than 8 miles they do start to make my back ache a bit, but a 5 min break usually sorts that.
 
Last edited:
I've just been looking at the Tour of Britain route, specifically the 2nd stage on Monday 10th as it passes through Derbyshire not far from me. There is a climb they have classified as Category 1.

The first Category One SKODA King of the Mountains climb of 2012 takes the race into the Derbyshire Dales, with a steep opening through the village of Turnditch before levelling off considerably towards the top at Cross o ‘th Hands.
Click to expand...

http://www.tourofbritain.com/_ns_race/default.asp?section=stage2_route

Is that the easiest or the hardest?

Strava classify it as Category 4. http://app.strava.com/segments/1045375

:confused:

I rode up it tonight.. http://app.strava.com/rides/20856437

...And saw this on the side of the road. :D

Wig.jpg


Cav.jpg
 
Dimple said:
Good grief, my Kryptonite New York M18 came today and I didn't realise how heavy & big it would be.
I'll have to go work in the car tomorrow because I'll never get up the hills carrying that :D
I'm going to leave it locked to a metal fence at work.
The cable is 12mm which will go round my front wheel.

kryptonitem18.jpg
Click to expand...

Good lock.

Make sure you fill the void in the U with as much frame, spokes and crank arm as possible. That will stop anyone putting a jack or lever in there.

Not sure about the cable; although it says 12mm that includes the sheath of transparent plastic. The plastic acts as a prism and makes the metal look wider than it actually is. Usually you can cut them with tin snips.
 
[DOD]Asprilla;22704203 said:
Good lock.

Make sure you fill the void in the U with as much frame, spokes and crank arm as possible. That will stop anyone putting a jack or lever in there.

Not sure about the cable; although it says 12mm that includes the sheath of transparent plastic. The plastic acts as a prism and makes the metal look wider than it actually is. Usually you can cut them with tin snips.
Click to expand...

not New Yorks you cant
I have one (not the M18 one) and they are rated to the highest security, extremy hard to cut and very expensive locks
 
Streeteh said:
I have the Road Team Alu too and would give the same feedback. Careful of the stem though, mine didn't seem to grip too well and needed just a tiny dab of carbon paste to keep it snug.
Click to expand...

Funny you should say that. I get very occasional, very quiet headset clunking. I'm using a different stem but I just can't seem to get rid of it. I can lock the brakes and heave it about with all my strength (grr!) and get no movement at all - then part way through a ride, or at the beginning of a ride, I get a very slight creak that I'm positive is coming from the stem/steerer.

I've tightened it up to what feels like spot on, get no movement, then later... clunk.

Will a bit of assembly paste help?
 
Last edited:
PardonTheWait said:
Will a bit of assembly paste help?
Click to expand...

Exactly the same problem I have and apparently not uncommon with the bike. I read it was something to do with connecting an alloy stem to a full carbon steerer, dunno if there's any truth to that. However I do notice that most other manufacturers that have a similar frame/fork setup opt for an alloy steerer, perhaps the reason for this is related.

A teeny dab of assembly paste sorted it instantly for me. A few people simply move the stem down a spacer, giving it more room to grip the steerer. Personally I liked the handlebars where they were so opted for the former.
 
I've dropped it down two spacers two days ago (not to fix the problem, but I did wonder if it would). I still got one clunk this morning.

I'll grab some paste and see if it does the trick, cheers :)
 
ShiWarrior said:
not New Yorks you cant
I have one (not the M18 one) and they are rated to the highest security, extremy hard to cut and very expensive locks
Click to expand...

Can't what?

I've lost a front wheel from my local station car park using one. They are relatively easy to cut.

U-locks are a reasonable level of protection but even hardened chains below 19mm can be cut with bolt croppers in under 30s.

I use an Almax Immobiliser IV motorcycle chain. Not portable in any way.
 
Last edited:
[DOD]Asprilla;22704322 said:
Can't what?

I've lost a front wheel from my local station car park using one. They are relatively easy to cut.

U-locks are a reasonable level of protection but even hardened chains below 19mm can be cut with bolt croppers in under 30s.
Click to expand...

really? thought they were stronger than that!
 
[DOD]Asprilla;22704203 said:
Good lock.

Make sure you fill the void in the U with as much frame, spokes and crank arm as possible. That will stop anyone putting a jack or lever in there.

Not sure about the cable; although it says 12mm that includes the sheath of transparent plastic. The plastic acts as a prism and makes the metal look wider than it actually is. Usually you can cut them with tin snips.
Click to expand...

Kryptonite suggest removing the front wheel and putting it at the back so that fills more void in.

http://www.kryptonitelock.com/Pages/HowToSecure.aspx
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom