Road Cycling Essentials

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Continuing from this, my mate has had a look and the rear mech is foobar, dropout bends back but needs replacing and all the other little bits.

However, instead of the Tiagra I'm upgrading is to a 105 rear (to match the 105 front). Hopefully I will see the difference but it's a difference of £20 to me so not too bad if I don't. I just like the idea of an upgrade :D

Also, you may all disagree with me but it's getting warmer and my bib tights and craft base layer are getting unbearably hot. The thing is, I'm mostly just commuting and I'm a bit self-concious. I want to get some summer gear but I'm not so sure on the really skin tight clothing. Anyone use anything more casual with success, without looking too stupid?

I've had a look at shorts like these. They are obviously MTB orientated but could they work for the road?
 
Get lycra; it's a convincing motivator to continue getting fit. It also makes you ride faster as you don't want to hang around long enough for people to point and laugh.

Some people try to take the micky at work but it's like water off a ducks back since by definition I'm better than them because I cycle.

If you do wear casual shorts then just make sure you check the location of the seams.....
 
6thElement said:
They're DH shorts, no padded chamois. You'll crash and die in a fireball wearing DH shorts on a road bike while commuting :(
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:D Even if I'm commuting on mostly country roads and the air I'm breathing consists mostly of cow **** fumes? :(

These look a bit less DH. It's hard to weigh it up online. My mate sells RaceFace clothing, might have a closer look. I'm not scared of peeing off the purists!
 
Dup said:
The thing is, I'm mostly just commuting and I'm a bit self-concious. I want to get some summer gear but I'm not so sure on the really skin tight clothing. Anyone use anything more casual with success, without looking too stupid?
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Don't be a fanny! :)

Just buy some fairly plain road clothing (Altura or similar), and wear a gilet over the top of your jersey. You'll be fine :)
 
[DOD]Asprilla;18531457 said:
Get lycra; it's a convincing motivator to continue getting fit. It also makes you ride faster as you don't want to hang around long enough for people to point and laugh.

Some people try to take the micky at work but it's like water off a ducks back since by definition I'm better than them because I cycle.

If you do wear casual shorts then just make sure you check the location of the seams.....
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I suppose you're right. It's water off a ducks back to me too. I look like a gay ninja terrorist with my full winter outfit and buff, apparently :D

I suppose the real bonus is I can't see myself so if it feels good then it's all good. Wearing the tights at first was really weird, then a skin tight base layer and fleece lined jersey. Got used to it though. I'm just not well proportioned. Skinny calfs, decent thighs, little belly and boobs and all attacked to a 6gt frame with size 11 feet. It will force me to work on the boobs and calfs away from cycling I suppose, and it is something I want to do.

I just wanted an easy way out, pleasse don't hurt me :(

Are you trying to say I look stupid? http://www.rghjones.co.uk/files/scottjersey.jpg :p
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No, I would eat my dinner off you, but then you're well proportioned!

I might have to steal your look seeing as we both have a Boardman ;)
 
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Dup said:
Anyone use anything more casual with success, without looking too stupid?
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Yep :)

I commute in either 3/4 or full length running tights underneath shorts or some black trousers from Trespass that roll up and button at the knee. On top I usually wear either a hi-vis yellow or a black long sleeve lycra running top or a t-shirt if it's warmer. When it's really cold I put a windproof North Face Torpedo jacket over the top which really works well. Converse All-Stars on my feet because they're narrow enough to fit in my toeclips.

I also have some Gore Windstopper gloves and a black merino wool Buff.

I look like an urban cyclist basically.
 
I had no idea if what I wear looks stupid or not, however it consists of a cheap jersey and a cheap pair of 3/4 shorts, under which I wear a pair of padded shorts. At this time of year I wear an Altura Cropton wind-proof jacket and some Altura winter gloves. In the summer, I wear a normal cotton polo shirt instead of the jersey. I prefer to look like an urban cyclist; wearing the full lycra kit would look strange on my bike :)
 
I've been wearing cycling shorts under light baggy shorts with leg warmers if its colder and a black cycling top (again with arm warmers if its chilly) and a loose wind/rain jacket when its very cold so totally not a full Lycra man - far too slow round Richmond park to get all kitted up ;)
 
Some **** in Croydon has had a go at my lock. While my bike wasn't even there :confused:

I guess it was only time, being as it's Croydon we're talking about (kind of surprised it has taken this long if I'm honest). I've added a second lock to my repertoire of security just in case...
 
Going to do a turbo session tonight, followed a couple of guides online and probably going to do something like this:

10 min warm-up
2 min effort
1 min recovery
2 min effort
1 min recovery
2 min effort
1 min recovery
2 min effort
1 min recovery
2 min effort
1 min recovery
2 min effort
1 min recovery
10 min warm-down

Only question though, is what should I base the effort sessions on/what should I try and target? A certain wattage perhaps?
 
Doesn't sound like enough recovery time to be honest.

Have a look at some of the sufferfest videos if you have access to a screen on the turbo. A typical session, say the downward spiral is:

5 min light warm up
5 mins higher efford with a couple of 30 second max efforts to start bufferring lactate
then:

2 mins max effort
2 mins recovery
1:45 max effort
1:45 recovery
1:30 max effort
1:30 recovery
1:15 max effort
1:15 recovery
1:00 max effort
1:00 recovery
0:45 max effort
0:45 recovery
0:30 max effort
0:30 recovery
0:15 max effort
0:15 recovery

5 min recoovery

2 mins max effort
2 mins recovery
1:45 max effort
1:45 recovery
1:30 max effort
1:30 recovery
1:15 max effort
1:15 recovery
1:00 max effort
1:00 recovery
0:45 max effort
0:45 recovery
0:30 max effort
0:30 recovery
0:15 max effort
0:15 recovery

5 min cooldown

As for effort, these intervals should be between 9-10 out of 10 on the rpe scale - basically by the end of it you should be ready to fall off your bike in a puddle of sweat. If at the end of each effort interval you fee like you could go another 10 seconds you weren't doing it hard enough.

Edit - I just typed all that out from memory then remembered they have it on their site: http://www.thesufferfest.com/video-sufferfests/details-downward-spiral/
 
That's great Sagalout, thanks. Just knocked up a custom MP3 that alternates between a high and low BPM song with fade ins for the max effort so I know when to start and stop. Total track length is 57 minutes :). Will see how I go!
 
So how did you get on? I went out for a 30 mile nightride with a small group. Quite weird cycling in the pitch dark countryside - descents were exciting, especially as I was on my TT bike as the road bike is in for a service.
 
Didn't go to the gym last night as was out for a flatmate's leaving meal. Did an hour cycle at lunch, doesn't compare I know but it's made me realise I definitely do need to raise my handlebars!

I'm just adjusting them as we speak. I've flipped my stem 180 as it was pointing down slightly, so now it's pointing up. Should be 1/2cm difference. I'm just wondering through what the technical differences are between pivoting the handlebars upwards or downwards within the stem?
 
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