Road Cycling Essentials

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physichull said:
In another note, just watching the Tour of Dubai highlights, seeing Peter Sagan throw his bike down in disgust because he crashed off REALLY grinds my gears (excuse the pun). So he may have buckled a wheel when he crashed, but really, people would kill for a bike like that! It really annoys me when people treat things like that with such contempt when things go badly.
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I do agree, but I guess if you've trained all winter and raced for a few hours to get in a winning position and you get a mechanical/have a fall then that would be extremely frustrating.
 
Haven't been back out (besides commuting) since a few weeks ago so thats like 1 ride in 2 months. Think I felt a bit down/lost after selling my R5. Also the awful weather hash't helped. Last Fri was lovely blue sky and the first time in a while I've actually looked forward to commuting in and home.

Starting to think about a new bike build/project for this year.
 
Look how the aluminium bike fails in the test.
A gradual bending of the tubes that would cause cracking of the paint and be clearly visible if it had been damaged.

The cf frame is incredibly strong. You could take it right to the point before it fails and remove it from the test rig and no damage would be evident.

The MAIN issue for me is the Roubaix costs £950 new, this is about the cheapest I have seen it, it comes with a lifetime warranty on frame and forks.

This is only valid, however for the original owner.

Buying a second hand CF bike is risky at best.
 
Carbon fibre is very strong in the direction it's designed to be strong in, but I believe it is weaker in other directions.

For riding a bike this means you're unlikely to break it just by riding the bike, but any crashes are more likely to break it compared to aluminium as you apply forces in directions it wasn't designed for. Second hand you want to be careful to check it for signs of any crashes and hope the owner is truthful in what they say.
 
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So then, that's a problem... but what type of bearing are they and what can I replace them with? FYI it's a 2010 Boardman Road Comp with an FSA branded headset. I also need to replace the bottom bracket. Tempted to strip the lot and get it painted while I'm at it. Poor things in a right state.
 
Dup said:
So then, that's a problem... but what type of bearing are they and what can I replace them with? FYI it's a 2010 Boardman Road Comp with an FSA branded headset. I also need to replace the bottom bracket. Tempted to strip the lot and get it painted while I'm at it. Poor things in a right state.
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Loose bearings like that are easy to service.

You just need to removed them all, clean the headset with something like WD40.
Looking at the state of the balls I would replace them.

Either use a set of vernier calipers to measure them or take them into a bike shop.
 
SkodaMart said:
Loose bearings like that are easy to service.

You just need to removed them all, clean the headset with something like WD40.
Looking at the state of the balls I would replace them.

Either use a set of vernier calipers to measure them or take them into a bike shop.
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this won't be a loose bearing headset.. it simply is so bad that the actual plastic seal to hold the bearings in place is gone too :)
 
It's easier to fit a seal bearing headset providing you have the tools to do so.

(rocket tool and headset press)

Otherwise its a bike shop job.
 
That looks like a semi integrated job to me! I'd not bother trying to service that as it looks ****ed.

I'd replace with a semi integrated headset with cartridge bearings.
 
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