Road Cycling

So in laymen's terms and one who probably wouldn't know the difference, how exactly are they cack? I won't upgrade it, because from the winter the bike will be used to cover 5 miles a day so it seems a waste of money to spend on it other than maintenance. Just interested really.
 
Mostly they're cack in terms of being made of cheese and having overly expensive replacement parts (e.g. the BB, chainrings). They're also not the stiffest.

Once it is worn just get yourself a HT II BB and crankset and enjoy the improvement :p
 
New to cycling, have been out a couple of times with standard pedals but will be first time tomorrow with cleats, I can see myself falling over at a red light but other than that I am looking forward to it. Any advice or experiences to share of first time with cleats/ clip in pedals?



I survived my first outing, the only proble with falling was leaving the house and getting going. I didn't have any issues on the ride getting unclipped to stop but found it tricky to get clip back in after setting off a few times. Hopefully that gets better with practice.
 
I survived my first outing, the only proble with falling was leaving the house and getting going. I didn't have any issues on the ride getting unclipped to stop but found it tricky to get clip back in after setting off a few times. Hopefully that gets better with practice.

It comes with practice, I can get in within a few seconds, but still at times I struggle. So much better cycling with cleats though that the few moments of pain are soon forgotten.
 
It's ALWAYS harder to clip in when starting from the front of a queue at traffic lights when there are cars behind, than it is any other time. Even when getting started from a standstill on a 1:4 hill.
 
Mine has the hy/rd brakes and I'm pretty sure it's the 105 chainset. Unfortunately I have lost the original invoice but I'm fairly certain it's a 2015 model.

I know the 2014 had some pretty bad reviews, specifically with frames cracking.

I'll be getting something to replace it with for road cycling but I'll keep it for commuting.

I'm probably harsh on it as my other steed is a Canyon Ultimate CF SLX.. I'll see how it is after the wheel upgrade!

Interested in how you find the wheelset and tyres. I've been looking at wheelsets with the intentions of running 2 - current for some trails with some grippy tyres on, new light (& deeper!) set for fast road/club riding.

Also tubeless, I'm really interesting in at the moment after feeling how firm the Roubaix pro my Diverge came with 'snapped' to the rim (they're both tubeless ready but came with tubes anyway).

Well the wheels feel good in the hand.. I'm a bit surprised how narrow they seem to me though, I'm used to 26-27mm rims and the difference is quite noticeable, hopefully the tyres won't bulge out too much.

I was a bit unsure about tubeless but the latest Schwalbe really do seem to be top notch and don't have a weight penalty compared to a normal tyre/tube combo
 
My mistake, it is FSA. Is that a particularly bad thing?

Mostly they're cack in terms of being made of cheese and having overly expensive replacement parts (e.g. the BB, chainrings). They're also not the stiffest.

Once it is worn just get yourself a HT II BB and crankset and enjoy the improvement :p

What FT said, basically FSA use a cheaper alloy so the crankset/chainrings flex a little more and wear out faster. But are much cheaper to produce so you see them on many midrange 105 setups. They generally use the same bottom brackets as Shimano so when the time comes for new chainrings it's cheaper to change the whole crankset over to Shimano (Hollowtech II) rather than just buying new chainrings.

The FSA crankset on my Giant Defy 1 2015 has done 5600 miles and I expect it'll do 8000 before I really need to change it. Now the bikes not being ridden in as bad conditions, that'll be a couple of years.
Well the wheels feel good in the hand.. I'm a bit surprised how narrow they seem to me though, I'm used to 26-27mm rims and the difference is quite noticeable, hopefully the tyres won't bulge out too much.
Which rims are they?
 
You've all spooked me with the 'skaterskins' I do remember having a wee skid when I ran them on my old Allez, but it was only once and was peeing down.

Have also ordered the RibMo's - I'll see which ones I like when they're in front of me.
 

Ah misunderstood, thought you'd got wider rims! They're 17mm internals IIRC, would be nice to go up to 19mm or something wouldn't it! :)

EDIT: Sun is glorious here now (after being cool until lunchtime). Going to head out for 'Bike Club' with some friends, shall see if my 'easy-turned-into-an-effort' ride from last night was too much of an effort! ;)

Sidenote. Oakley CAVENDISH Jawbreakers arrived. Utterly awesome shades and the big size fits my head well. Going to be good to try the extra vents on a hot day with some efforts! :D
 
Last edited:
With FSA cranks and BB's etc I've not had good experiences.

The FSA evo BB didn't last very long on my bike from new and when I went to replace it I found there were cracks in the shaft of the Gossamer crank too :eek: Bike was just over 12 months old so no warranty replacement either.

Getting much better durability with Shimano Ultegra BB's and 105 cranks.

Couple of searches on the web brought up lots of similar experiences with the BB, not sure if same was being said about the crank.

Going back couple of days posts here the garmin 1000 that's gone belly up is a replacement unit after my first one died :mad:
 
However FSA do make some great products, but generally not the ones made from metal.

DSC_0012_zpskn3tp61l.jpg
 
Attempted another climb tonight, this time I made it up so I'm feeling pretty chuffed, although completely knackered now. I knew it would be easier than Birdlip especially with a working granny gear. I stopped 3 times but I'm pretty chuffed I made it. Two cat 4's and a cat 3 as part of the same hill really.

https://www.strava.com/activities/695875437

What FT said, basically FSA use a cheaper alloy so the crankset/chainrings flex a little more and wear out faster. But are much cheaper to produce so you see them on many midrange 105 setups. They generally use the same bottom brackets as Shimano so when the time comes for new chainrings it's cheaper to change the whole crankset over to Shimano (Hollowtech II) rather than just buying new chainrings.

The FSA crankset on my Giant Defy 1 2015 has done 5600 miles and I expect it'll do 8000 before I really need to change it. Now the bikes not being ridden in as bad conditions, that'll be a couple of years.
Which rims are they?

Thanks for the explanation.
 
One thing about Gatorskins that you lot never seem to mention is how bad they are in the dry let alone the wet - I have never had a tyre give me less confidence than I currently do with these :o

Corners I used to whip round flat out on my ultra sports are like skating on ice, the worst thing about them is the feel is so bad you have no idea where the limit is - they sound like they are about to give way but as yet I haven't fallen off but thats mainly as I slow down so much due to lack of faith.

I will never buy them again and will likely replace them long before they are worn out just to get my bike back!

Not had a puncture with them to be fair but I think I will go for the 4 seasons next.
 
One thing about Gatorskins that you lot never seem to mention is how bad they are in the dry let alone the wet - I have never had a tyre give me less confidence than I currently do with these :o

Corners I used to whip round flat out on my ultra sports are like skating on ice, the worst thing about them is the feel is so bad you have no idea where the limit is - they sound like they are about to give way but as yet I haven't fallen off but thats mainly as I slow down so much due to lack of faith.

I will never buy them again and will likely replace them long before they are worn out just to get my bike back!

Not had a puncture with them to be fair but I think I will go for the 4 seasons next.

Fair point. To be honest I found them so scary to ride on in the wet that I slowed down in the dry too "just in case". They're horrible tyres.
 
I have only had a puncture once with 4000 s2s, and that's because I hit a small pothole at 30-odd mph down a hill. That, and I've been lucky with thorns, I guess... but ridden over loads of bits of broken glass/parts of roads where they've just cut the hawthorn hedges.
 
You havent lived until you've tried a gator hardshell. All the grip of a gatorskin but with the bonus of feeling like you have hosepipes* instead of inner tubes





*stripping a scrap bike at my local co-op recently, i actually found one with hosepipe instead of inner tubes
 
You havent lived until you've tried a gator hardshell. All the grip of a gatorskin but with the bonus of feeling like you have hosepipes* instead of inner tubes





*stripping a scrap bike at my local co-op recently, i actually found one with hosepipe instead of inner tubes

For my sins I've ridden on them. They do make regular gators look awesome in comparison.

Also...what the fudge /re the hosepipe?
 
For my sins I've ridden on them. They do make regular gators look awesome in comparison.

Also...what the fudge /re the hosepipe?

people who dont know will do almost anything to keep a bike going

I've seen cracked frames taped up with gaffer tape, and even one guy who'd snapped his downtube so he'd wrapped a stout steel cable between the headtube and the BB to keep it going

see #yourbikehatesyou on instagram for all sorts of silliness
 
Back
Top Bottom