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God.
Road Cycling
- Thread starter FrenchTart
- Start date
Yup, both pads can be adjusted individually.
Undo the mount bolts, pull the brake on, tighten the mount bolts whilst the brake is engaged, then adjust each pad as required to get a decent distance from the rotor.
Option two, buy hydros and join the cool gang
Thanks, have told him to do the loosen caliper, apply brake and tighten to centre technique.
No, both pads can be adjusted individually.
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Of course, pads being adjusted individually is mutually exclusive with them being dual piston.
Actually.
ACTUALLY.
There is some method to the madness here.... Although I am not agreeing with you in the way you are making your point.
Kenyan runners run around in serious heat wrapped up like nutters and must sweat a lot. Their reasoning is psychological, in that they do this so when it comes to a race, they strip off all the layers and in nothing but shorts and a vest they feel light, nimble and fast.
This logic is applied in cycling all the time too. Dudes will train on their race bike with heavier wheels/wider tyres and swap their lighter race wheels with narrower tyres for race day or have a totally separate bike purely for racing. They will remove a bottle cage from their bike for a race and wear their decent kit for racing in which they wouldn't train in. All these little things give you a "race mode" feeling and while arguably a bottle cage off and race wheels do save weight, the psychological benefit of these things is a large benefit.
The mind/brain in any sport is the majority of the battle really. If you can get 1% benefit in your mind from any little (LEGAL) thing, then go for it.
Regards the way you present your point though. Watts is watts. That's why people train by it as no matter the circumstance or situation, watts is watts, whether that be 200w on a fat heavy bike or 200w on a 6kg super lightweight race bike it's the same energy expenditure output and results are of equivalent. I think what you hint at is more along the lines of that if someone riding at 200w on a road bike would then jump on a bike heavy bike and burst themselves that bit more to train at higher speeds and match roughly what they were doing on the road bike. In that case though they would be training at a much higher intensity, not simply training to the same level yet yielding more strength/fitness results. What you suggest is no different from telling a guy who is training at 200w on a road bike to just start riding around everywhere at 300w instead as it'll make him stronger whilst totally neglecting the other factors involved with doing so, i.e fatigue/injury/ability!
Caporegime
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yea thats my point. you train harder on a mtb/heavier gear vs a road bike
Incorrect. Consider someone doing MEGAsquats in the gym, then they go on a rowing machine, they're not going to be a better rower than someone who's training is only on the rowing machine. Even if they've done 10 hours in the gym that week to the rowers 3. They will probably have stronger quads, but they won't be a stronger rower.
The same way a 100m sprinter isn't a better 400m runner. Even though they're 'stronger' than the 400m runners.
Throw any MTB rider on a road bike and they'll have more 'power', but that power will be for short periods of time at low speeds/cadences with high torque. A road rider will generally have lower overall 'peak' power & torque but they can sustain power levels for much longer at higher cadences & speeds.
Think my hydros need this adjustment still, got loads of noise last night even just from the disc spinning when wet. It sounds as if 'things' are inbetween the pads/disc when all it can be is water/rain.Yup, both pads can be adjusted individually.
Undo the mount bolts, pull the brake on, tighten the mount bolts whilst the brake is engaged, then adjust each pad as required to get a decent distance from the rotor.
Option two, buy hydros and join the cool gang
How do you adjust them individually then? Couldn't see anything when I had the pads out of my RS685's...
I had to do the 'piece of paper behind the caliper' trick to see the gap between pads & disc, it was uniform both sides but very very close, around the width of a hair or less, I actually struggled to see it and had to get my glasses & a torch. The clearance is much closer than the rear which I can see with the naked eye without the paper behind. The pads seem self adjusting/aligning/centring, but how can I increase that gap to see if it reduces my noises?
TLDR; basically my front pad:disc clearance is so tight I'm not convinced it's the cause of my front being loads noisier than the rear.
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Caporegime
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100mm sprinters train with weights on there back when sprinting...
Which is different from riding at 200w on a road bike and 200w on a mountain bike.
xdcx makes a point about the difference in training mental aspect, but power is power no matter what. The only thing to add to his point is training in position, so as I TT during the summer, my winter training when on the turbo is in my TT position to ensure that I can hit the power I need to in that position. Its all well and good being able to hit 300w for an hour on a road bike, but if this only translates into 220W on the TT because your body can't sustain the power in that position its no good.
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Spinny spinspin!
It's responses like this, along with your lack of consideration of some of our descriptions and explanations which lead me to think you're trolling in here.
Apologies if not - please read back and understand our responses. If you don't understand them, then please say so, otherwise it seems as if you're asking questions you don't fully understand, regardless of the responses you're going to receive.
Basically - there's much more than 'leg power' which governs 'how fast you go'.
Speaking of this I decided this morning that I might need to graduate from 50x34. Spinning at 35mph on the flat using the car ahead as a target in 50-11 and couldn't really get any more speed out without crazy fast spinning.
The worry is that I won't be able to get up some of the steep climbs with the 36 and 6800 chainrings aren't particularly cheap..
I'm a bit of a spinner generally averaging 95-100 on most rides unless particularly hilly but tend to sit in the 80-95 range at speed. 100+ is a little too fast for my legs (or my lungs!) at that kinda speed.