Last longer ride before this weekend's etape Loch ness
Have a good one, same to touch/Lethal and whoever else from here is riding it! Hope the weather is kind to you all!
Say I have a bike that has a crankset on it that costs about £750-£1000 depending on where you bought it from. (Cannondale Si SL2) and I wanted a power meter... what would my best option be?
Am I stuck with Vector 2s? I don't really want a single sided stages thing.
Why no Stages or other single sided? The only basic 'extra' you get from a 'dual-sided' PWM is your pedalling balance. There's very little difference in accuracy as the way any PWM works has a margin of error (within the data) which would largely offset any minor difference between pedal strokes.
I actually went with my C1 due to price/situation. It handily measures power from both legs combined (not technically 'dual sided') and 'calculates' pedalling balance. I've never found my balance exactly 50%/50% and I doubt many people are without training/coaching. I wouldn't let it worry you, a Stages/SRM/Pioneer 'doubles' the data from a single side, but it should still be within ~5% accuracy of the real power figure you're outputting. The 'imbalance' should only account for something like +/- 5% of the total without some weird pedalling going on (which you would know about from knee injuries/odd cleat/shoe wear and comments from riding companions). Maybe as much as 10% maximum (thinking 45%/55% balance which I see on some of my rides).
As Ben mentions, a hub might be the best cost effective option/alternative to pedals. New wheels!
I'd glide through and give him shelter, then he'd surge passed at about 4mph faster up the road time and time again. Best tactic is let him do it, wait until he's heading to the back of the bunch and attack then. Should sort him out but I'm not there yet.
What you're describing isn't a good chaingang (as touch mentions) and it was exactly the same as what I experienced - everyone burying themselves to 'chain' which just means riders blow as they can't recover and the groups overall speed is lower. The group I was with started with 7 and finished with 3 (of the original riders)!
Most certainly will make a difference. Used Panasonic AAA's in my P1's and barely saw 40 hours. Energiser Lithiums seem to still be going after 70+hrs and Lithium is what Powertap recommend. Not sure if CR2032 (is this what your C1's use?) come in Lithium form or not?
Yeah CR2032 (coin cell). I've not really seen different battery types mentioned in talks of the C1's but I am aware of them being available for people using them for lights? You can get rechargeable ones too (Ni-Cad)?
All CR2032 are lithium cell, the C meaning lithium, the R meaning 'round', 20 meaning 20mm diameter and the 32 meaning 3.2mm width. You can get other 'types' (Zinc, Silver, Alkaline) but they're less common in the 2032 format. Duracell use their own DR designation rather than CR for some reason (I've never bought them as thought them different), but they should still be 3V lithium cells.
My science lesson for this afternoon:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Button_cell#Electrochemical_system