Road Cycling

Legs are actually feeling quite good today after my moaning earlier! Took it fairly easy at lunchtime and still 18mph avg (with a headwind back to work). 19.5mph avg both ways if I exclude the slow start/ends! :D

I've got a problem with my front disc, pads are quite worn/noisy so figured I'd change them, pads were new in September. I've only taken the pads out once and when I did I maybe refitted them with the 'pad fixing bolt' done up a little tight... Fast forward to now (guessing some oxide build up) and I can't get the bolt undone and the screw driver twisted out the the head starting to damage it... I've tried twice and it's not shifting. Any tips? Clearance is so tight I can't get a hacksaw in there to cut a bigger socket. I could dremel it off and then drill it out but I don't have a replacement fixing bolt anyways (my uberbike replacements didn't come with one).

TkCuVkU.jpg

touch said:
Poor attempt at understanding 'gradient', too? :p
100% gradient = 45 degree slope.
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Haha, obviously! I won't even try and fathom that out today. My brain hurts already! Is it friday yet?
 
I have a terrible cough and I have 90 minutes of track work tonight.

I hope I don't get asked to do a wizz test because my pee is going to be 65% Covonia (for dry tickly coughs). :p
 
Whatever you do Roady you're going to need a replacement bolt so source that before you attempt it.

Last time I had something like that I used chemical metal to bond a screw driver bit onto the screw head - waited till it set hard then it came out no trouble at all.
 
BennyC said:
Missed this. Depends what level you were/are at as to how much of a challenge it'll be and if you're happy finishing it solo (presuming it's a drop ride) or are looping round so you can cut it short if need be :)

Long as it's clear then nobody can get their knickers in a twist.
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I've done several (?) Century rides now, or thereabouts. I really struggled in the last 10 miles or so of all of them, but it was mostly hadn't eaten enough and ran out of energy, as much as legs were shot.
The last one I did, I hated - but the one prior to it I really enjoyed - but only set out for about 50... but it was a nice day.
This will have at least one cake stop on it, possibly two. And only going as fast as the people that can keep up. Looking at the route, I could always cut it short and take myself home in the last 20 miles... But I'd be driving to the start and then have to get back to my car at some point later in the day.... so there's that to consider.

This is the route
http://www.strava.com/routes/8317050
 
merlin said:
Whatever you do Roady you're going to need a replacement bolt so source that before you attempt it.

Last time I had something like that I used chemical metal to bond a screw driver bit onto the screw head - waited till it set hard then it came out no trouble at all.
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Ok thanks. Think I've found replacement.

touch said:
Did you take the retaining clip off the other side of it? Try turning the retaining clip side with pliers, sometimes it's easier to get at.
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Of course! The thread is the head end, very similar to this but with a flat head, not hex. I've ordered anyway!
 
Jonny ///M said:
I've only ever cycled Edinburgh to Glasgow parallel to the M8 so through Livingston and Whitburn but that will put you into the city centre.

I'd try stay further north and take in roads over the crow road way, try to head to Falkirk, Denny, Kilearn and then down to Balloch.

If you get out on the bike once you're here then that neck of the woods is good for the Crow road, Tak ma doon road, further north gets you to the top of the world climb towards Kippen or even the dukes pass from Aberfoyle to Callander.
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Well my difficult alternate route goes through:

Newbridge
Kirklison
Queensferry
Crombie
Cairneyhill
Clackmannan
Alloa
Craigmill
Bridge of Allan
Doune
Buchany
Callander
Lendrick Lodge
Duncraggan
Aberfoyle
Gartmore
Dalnary
Drymen
Gartocharn
Balloch
Loch Lomond Aquarium.

Not convinced I'll be able to do it given the length/elevation after the preceding 6 days, but we'll see. The route looks pretty beautiful.
 
It doesnt matter which end the thread is at? It's a solid bolt so you can turn either end. Just remember that when you turn the wrong end with pliers that you're going the opposite way and not tightening it.
 
Good point, I could even try getting something through the retaining clip hole, to turn it.

Read online somewhere about a brake cleaning/stripping fluid that'll eat away any aluminium oxide. That is obviously if it's aluminium...!? Think I'd rather dremel it off and then drill it out... As I've got the tools for that!
 
Sledgehammer. Or possibly it just needs more cowbell? Kill it with fire!

Colourful language, works 20% of the time, ALL THE TIME! :D
 
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Jono said:
I've done several (?) Century rides now, or thereabouts. I really struggled in the last 10 miles or so of all of them, but it was mostly hadn't eaten enough and ran out of energy, as much as legs were shot.
The last one I did, I hated - but the one prior to it I really enjoyed - but only set out for about 50... but it was a nice day.
This will have at least one cake stop on it, possibly two. And only going as fast as the people that can keep up. Looking at the route, I could always cut it short and take myself home in the last 20 miles... But I'd be driving to the start and then have to get back to my car at some point later in the day.... so there's that to consider.

This is the route
http://www.strava.com/routes/8317050
Click to expand...

You're the only one that can really judge if you're fit enough to do it. I attempted a 100mile 6500ft ride in april after having done only 90miles in 6 months! If you pace it and don't push to hard on the climbs you should be good! Unfortunately i had to cut mine short at 80ish miles due to a knee injury, but i just hopped on the train to the nearest town to home.
 
Roady said:
Legs are actually feeling quite good today after my moaning earlier! Took it fairly easy at lunchtime and still 18mph avg (with a headwind back to work). 19.5mph avg both ways if I exclude the slow start/ends! :D

I've got a problem with my front disc, pads are quite worn/noisy so figured I'd change them, pads were new in September. I've only taken the pads out once and when I did I maybe refitted them with the 'pad fixing bolt' done up a little tight... Fast forward to now (guessing some oxide build up) and I can't get the bolt undone and the screw driver twisted out the the head starting to damage it... I've tried twice and it's not shifting. Any tips? Clearance is so tight I can't get a hacksaw in there to cut a bigger socket. I could dremel it off and then drill it out but I don't have a replacement fixing bolt anyways (my uberbike replacements didn't come with one).
Click to expand...

Split the caliper in half using the two torx bolts on the back of it, take the pads out, stick the caliper half in a vice and use some pliers to get the pin out. Reassemble caliper, you'll probably need to bleed the system.
If you cant find a pin a cut down spoke with the ends bent up will work for the time being.
 
Haha, Strava premium is one of my little luxuries, can't say I use it much but the couple of times I've stopped it I've missed parts of it (goals & fitness/freshness).

Had an attempt on a local 10 mile TT course last night with a westerly headwind for the return leg. Hurt. Lots. Full write-up here.

kieranv said:
Split the caliper in half using the two torx bolts on the back of it, take the pads out, stick the caliper half in a vice and use some pliers to get the pin out. Reassemble caliper, you'll probably need to bleed the system.
If you cant find a pin a cut down spoke with the ends bent up will work for the time being.
Click to expand...
Good tip, thanks. Will investigate if I can't get the pin out with pliers on the other side. Hopefully the part I've ordered from Wiggle will be the right size so it doesn't matter how much I damage it. Going to test by removing the pin on my rear caliper & swapping. Saw from googling some shimano calipers have a split pin rather than a bolt? I'm assuming the bolt doesn't need to be tight as it's just a carrier to keep the pads 'in' the caliper?
 
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