I spent 45 minutes indexing a 10sp cassette on 11sp shifters
the problem is, you can always get it remarkably close. it's not obviously and massively wrong
Road Cycling
- Thread starter FrenchTart
- Start date
the problem is, you can always get it remarkably close. it's not obviously and massively wrong
Amateurs. I spent 'several hours' (days!) trying to understand the intricacies of indexing a front derailleur minute amounts (and wrecked 2 cables) before I realised I'd mounted the BB plastic cable pulley guide thingy the wrong way around so the cable was the other 'side' of the seat tube than designed for the derailleurs arm. Cable tension would be 'all or nothing'. The same time I also replaced everything (inc cable outers) from the bars backwards (inc wrapped bar tape) with the brakes reversed (Euro style!). Rode it like that for several months.
Soldato
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- 9 Nov 2005
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- Southampton, hopefully not too hot, or too cold
But rides done alone get extra kudos, as they don't get reduced aero drag (even the front rider in a group gets a benefit, just not as much as those trailing closely behind).
Somehow ended up doing my first ever 50-miler in my life, nevermind just from Strava records, except it wasn't planned at all! Headed into new territory up by the South Downs Way, didn't realise I had to make a left turn on the descent (not using a fancy GPS gadget with a planned route) and ended up on the outskirts of Winchester, then stupidly decided to head back up to the South Downs border before heading home with heavy legs and rather saddle sore!
I may have gone a bit crazy with raiding the cupboards and fridge in the hours after getting in...
2x mugs of Sainsburys Horlicks
2x chicken drumsticks (needed eating)
Generous portion of wafer thin ham (as above)
Tin of baked beans
2x bagels with peanut butter, Sainsburys low salt Marmite and marmalade
Bowl of Porridge
Small chocolate bar
While I know I'm drinking a lot more fluid before/during/after rides, it's no wonder I'm ~3Kg heavier than my lowest weight in ages earlier this year (now back up at ~79Kg)... I come back from these 20+ mil rides and I get massive food cravings!
Not telling because you're not riding a Bianchi.
Not telling because you're not riding a Bianchi.
How do you know?
Soldato
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- 8 Sep 2005
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- Chichester
I had my sit bones measured about 2 years ago (i think at 153mm) and bought a specialized romin expert 155mm and had no real problems at all. This was when i was fairly new to cycling though and i think the longest ride i had done with that saddle was around 45-50miles. I then changed bikes and sold the specialized saddle with the bike. The saddle that came with the cannondale was ok for 40-50mile rides but does get rather sore once i start going into the 60-70mile+ range. The cannondale saddle is 145mm but being a CX saddle is quite forgiving compared to road saddles. I thought i would try changing to a fizik saddle (it was dirt cheap new and actually sold it on second hand for double, win!) which i later found out was 142mm and it was absolutely unbearable after 30miles
The saddle that came with the giant has a ridiculous 138mm width so i knew i would have to replace it and on the few rides i've done with it (max being 30miles) it was rather painful.
It wasn't until after buying the fizik i realised they actually do different sizes in certain models so the 152mm version may be an option. Unfortunately the only models that seem to come in the large sizing are £££££££. Looks like another specialized saddle could be the way to go...
It wasn't ideal and i pretty much put up with the pain on long rides
Because you've already used your N+1 quota this year
Anyone ride with 46/34 chain rings?
My cross bike has 50/34 at the moment. That's great on the road with slick tyres, but it's heavy going off-road with knobbly tread. I'm thinking of switching the 50 for a 46, assuming I can find a decent looking compatible chainring that doesn't cost the earth. I figure that should give me the best of both worlds whatever I'm doing.
Any thoughts?
My cross bike has 50/34 at the moment. That's great on the road with slick tyres, but it's heavy going off-road with knobbly tread. I'm thinking of switching the 50 for a 46, assuming I can find a decent looking compatible chainring that doesn't cost the earth. I figure that should give me the best of both worlds whatever I'm doing.
Any thoughts?
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- 16 May 2005
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I used to have 46/36 on my old PX XLS for on-road use and it was pretty pointless. However, I'm currently in the same position as you on my CX bike and I'd definitely recommend swapping your 50 out to a 46. Or even 44 (if that's possible - have never checked)
If you will be predominantly doing off road just get a single chain ring and ditch the front. I used my pinnacle 50 for riding CX and South Downs, its mostly useless. Swapped out my Cannondale 46/36 for a 38 chainring after one race, never looked back. Even going to something like a 40t should cover 90% of what you need if you had a 32 on the rear.
Because you've already used your N+1 quota this year
I take this challenge. Although no idea where it'd go in my garage now having 6 bikes in there.
It needs to be suited to all uses, as in the winter it'll be my main ride, and when it's icy I'll be putting studded tyres on it for commuting.
I figure 46/34 gives me better off road gearing while doing the job on road as well. The cassette is 11-32 so going from 50 to 46 is about the same as dropping to 12t on the fast end of cassette ie never an issue unless I'm going downhill or have the mother of all tailwinds.
Hmmmm.
To be fair, I spent (I reckon) about 75% of that trip to LL on the front.But rides done alone get extra kudos, as they don't get reduced aero drag (even the front rider in a group gets a benefit, just not as much as those trailing closely behind).
When you did your ride, did you bike pack or go full on panniers?
Domestique duties? Who where you riding for?
Ahh, good. I just wanted to check you'd got your specific measurements from a fit of some kind! I know when I had my RETUL & Specialized BG fit the guy measured my sit bones but said they were 'normal' so didn't give me any specific measurements. Sounds like you've pretty much answered your own question anyway? From reading your experiences I think you're correct to continue looking for wider saddles - although we all change as we gain/lose fitness and body-mass (much of my issues come from movement & saddle flex, not width) there's very little which can change with our actual sit bone width.I had my sit bones measured about 2 years ago (i think at 153mm) and bought a specialized romin expert 155mm and had no real problems at all. This was when i was fairly new to cycling though and i think the longest ride i had done with that saddle was around 45-50miles. I then changed bikes and sold the specialized saddle with the bike. The saddle that came with the cannondale was ok for 40-50mile rides but does get rather sore once i start going into the 60-70mile+ range. The cannondale saddle is 145mm but being a CX saddle is quite forgiving compared to road saddles. I thought i would try changing to a fizik saddle (it was dirt cheap new and actually sold it on second hand for double, win!) which i later found out was 142mm and it was absolutely unbearable after 30miles
lol I can only imagine. I'm falling over wheels and bikes with only 4 bikes and 3 spare sets of wheels in mine!
Battered it coming in to work on my single speed this morning. 17.2mph per garmin, 16.9mph after mandatory strava speed reduction. I was wringing wet. Went to go get my voucher for my free bike to work week breakfast and of course the fittie with the red hair from the site admin office is there while I've literally got sweat dripping off my nose onto the paper I'm writing on. Thank goodness I'm married, I'd never pull these days.
Here's what I took:
And this is my winter/touring bike fully loaded up:
Never used a large saddle bag before, it was brilliant, especially up the hills. Never knew it was there.
I never seem to get the same reduction others seem to see from GPS unit to Strava. Using the Elemnt so perhaps this is just a Garmin thing?
I'm more concerned with power metrics than I am speed
but it can be a good short term target towards the end of less focused ride to sustain an average despite a headwind or nudge it up if conditions are favourable.
If you don't bother with a wheel sensor most of the time Garmin / Strava will match up. I only tend to see 0.1-0.3mph difference anyway and generally more likely on routes with more traffic / stops so likely a result of auto pause.
Woke up to losing a 9 mile KOM this morning I'll have to attack it properly sometime. He wasn't solo and it looks like from the 4th/5th placings he's tried to grab it before with someone else.
Woke up to losing a 9 mile KOM this morning
I'll have to attack it properly sometime. He wasn't solo and it looks like from the 4th/5th placings he's tried to grab it before with someone else.