Nah it just looks like it dished to the right 6mm, so gives an evenly tensioned wheel. Luckily no fancy dancy wheels needed, just tuned slightly different.
Ahh, yeah that does make life loads easier!
In theory my 30 Course are off centre by approx 2mm due to my mixing of endcaps. They don't look it and you can barely make it out even lining up the centre line of the tyre with the middle of the mudguard. Although 6mm is much further over, you'd probably notice if you didn't redish! Should all be ok with spoke lengths as I've offset a wheel much worse than 6mm when playing around building up tension wrongly lol
Specialized scs if you have QR scs just needs the gear hanger changed to non scs and you can choose wheels normally. The bolt through version is a bigger pain.
The majority of the Specialized frames with SCS are Carbon and use thru axles (Roubaix, Diverge, Crux), only the generally cheaper alu versions of the same models have QR and they are generally not SCS! Think only the Crux alu is QR & SCS.
I can confirm that plush is a good description! That is despite me having to run them at a very slightly higher pressure than my old 35's as the minimum recommended pressure is 45 PSI and I used to run my front at 40. They looked pretty huge once fitted, much more so than I'd have imagined coming from tyres that are supposedly only 3mm smaller.
They take a noticeable amount of effort to get rolling from stand still but it is rare that I come to a complete stop even on long rides. Once on the move though they roll incredibly well and intercept so much roughness from the road. Unless I get a lot of punctures to sour the relationship these are keepers!
Weird advantage I wasn't expecting is that the little pins on them don't hold on to mud and water like my other tyres so the bike stayed much cleaner than normal despite taking it on some very mucky sections and some light off road stuff.
3mm isn't a huge difference but the air volume behind that is, hence the higher pressure! Much weight difference? If they're heavy with much more rolling resistance due to the different tread that might explain the extra effort required.
Anyone had trouble with their wahooo tickr? Mine stopped working assumed it was the battery, so changed it. Connects ok to the wahoo utility app but it won't register my heart beat.
I did have a communication issue with mine, it's well worth cleaning the popper contacts. I found with mine as I generally only unpop the one side the other gathered some 'fluff' and eventually some of it had worked it's way into the contact. Good clean and it was back to normal!
Worth trying a known good battery, I had a bad batch at one point with 2-3 duff ones (tend to buy Panasonic ones in a card 'sheet', 10 a time). My PWM & cadence sensor also use them so I tend to have a stock!
...and I just cancelled it and ordered an Elemnt Bolt instead
Good choice! The change Garmin->Wahoo is quite weird, you'll get to the point of asking yourself 'Have I set up eveything? Feels like I've missed a load of things', but that really is it.
Had fun today going downhill at about 30mph, hit in the side by a strong wind and hail storm.
Oooosh! Good job staying on! I hid inside this weekend as things where miserable saturday morning... Got some stick for turning into a 'fair weather rider' from the usual suspects, but then they cut their planned ride short from 40 to 28 miles (and only 2 of them even complete that!) I knew I'd made the right choice!
Emptied myself on a
Zwift 160km 3.0w/kg endurance ride on saturday morning, couple of drops & losing a wheel or two I was really struggling to jump back to the group each time. Eventually gave in at around 45 miles and rolled around solo to clock it to 62 miles (100km). Good volume and hopefully just what I need to get myself back on track.