Road Cycling

Roady said:
What's up with them? I was actually looking at a pair as my Treble II's have been superb. Found some for you. :cool:
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I'd say an F felt frame would be as stiff or stiffer than a cervelo R - and won't crack round the bb.
The R5 is closer to the geometry of Felt as its so racey the R3/2 are higher stack and shorter reach.


Re shoes I broke my left foot in 4 places years ago and it sits quite proud where the buckle is and the pointy bone to the left sticks out a bit more than usual. The buckle pushes against that, I've had to go 44 for space but I feel the toe box is too big and my big toe gets chaffed a bit unless I realllly tighten the front velcro strap.

I had old shimano 44 that felt good until they were worn out, like the sole was coming away from the upper. The trans felt awesome in the shop but not on the road. Tried them with the higher arch support and that made my left foot numb but I still have it on my right foot. :o

I tried Shimano RP5 in a 44 and with the reversed buckle I couldn't even fit my left foot in the shoe :confused:

I ought to try an RP9 with the boa to see that goes.
 
On the subject of canyons....

Turned up to the bundy and a guy had a replacement ultimate frame with his old 10 speed kit on it, canyon bars tape et all so I think they built it.

FD wasn't working, the wire into the left shifter didn't have a loop for slack so it has pulled out with his pulling on the tape. Sorted that for him.

Turned up to the southside last night and a good customer(the guy who's wheels I'm using) couldn't get his canyon aeroad into the big ring. Zero tension on the mech. Used the screw on the newer style mech to tension to get him going by the mech wasn't even in line with the rings. :rolleyes:
 
randomshenans said:
Jesus what goes through their heads?
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Saytan said:
absolutely nothing.
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Not a lot, she said a couple of times, it was my wingmirror, was thinking to myself obviously, otherwise I'd be lying on the side of the road. She tried to make a pass when there was a car in the other lane and completely misjudged it, luckily she realised and pulled straight over and admitted

Roady said:
Dang, what an idiot! Glad your hand wasn't smashed into the shifter too! How's the leg?
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Yep, quite lucky she didn't tag my bars properly can imagine I'd have been in a much worse position. Leg is ok, although appear to have gained a bruise to the inner part of my shin overnight!
 
Can I use this thread to ask for tyre recommendations? Or I should start a new thread? I've got 700c 35c at the moment and I'm wondering about something fast, for road obviously in a 32c or 28c? (Need to go and see if rim width is written on the side of my current rims - Boardman HYB 8.9)
 
How much you looking to spend? I really rate lifeline prime armour in a 28 from wiggle about £16.99 or so.

I've worn two rears and one front out with only one puncture and they grip better than a 16.99 tyre has any right to
 
Well I see the most expensive are £40-£50, which I'm fine with. Obviously, I don't want to throw money at something not worth it though.

This is what is on the wall of my rim -

wHOnxe2h.jpg


I'm going to assume that means the wheel rim is 19mm across, so I should be fine on a 28c? I assume 28c have less rolling resistance than a 32c? At the minute I have my eye on the Continental Grand Prix 4 Season 700c 28c? I couldn't tell you why mind... but it seems well rated.
 
AndyCr15 said:
Can I use this thread to ask for tyre recommendations? Or I should start a new thread? I've got 700c 35c at the moment and I'm wondering about something fast, for road obviously in a 32c or 28c? (Need to go and see if rim width is written on the side of my current rims - Boardman HYB 8.9)
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28 GP5000 and run em tubeless if you can.
 
garnett said:
https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/road-bike-reviews

- Good resource for speccing new tyres...
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Looks a pretty awesome website... but... how do I find any 28c tyres?

SoliD said:
28 GP5000 and run em tubeless if you can.
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Noob question time, how does that work? What goes where the inner tube valve comes through on the rim? **EDIT** It sounds like I need a separate value and some sealant, but can be done myself if my wheels are compatible. Is it worth just getting it done at Halfords?

**EDIT** Also, this video says wider tyres have less rolling resistance?

 
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a wider tyre has less rolling resistance than a narrower one *at the same pressure*

but as the tyre gets wider, you run progressively less pressure, giving a more comfortable ride with the same rolling resistance.

https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/specials/grand-prix-5000-comparison

the article compares the same tyre in 4 sizes, and crucially does a test with sensible size-related pressures compared (100psi in a 32mm tyre is going to be a lot less comfortable than 100 psi in a 25mm tyre)
 
Saytan said:
a wider tyre has less rolling resistance than a narrower one *at the same pressure*
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Yea, they did a test didn't they. The bonus of a 28 is that you can actually run it at a lower pressure, which is more comfortable, but then you lose the benefit of decreased rolling resistance. Its a bit rattly at 95psi on 28s but hey
 
Jonny ///M said:
On the subject of canyons....

Turned up to the bundy and a guy had a replacement ultimate frame with his old 10 speed kit on it, canyon bars tape et all so I think they built it.

FD wasn't working, the wire into the left shifter didn't have a loop for slack so it has pulled out with his pulling on the tape. Sorted that for him.

Turned up to the southside last night and a good customer(the guy who's wheels I'm using) couldn't get his canyon aeroad into the big ring. Zero tension on the mech. Used the screw on the newer style mech to tension to get him going by the mech wasn't even in line with the rings. :rolleyes:
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Doesn't surprise me. I love the bikes but they're often shockingly put together. I redid a lot of the stuff on mine.

@Roady that's pretty much what was up. My FD was pointing outwards (I've never adjusted it) and when putting the oval rings on, just couldn't get it to shift ot the big ring. I didn't see the well hidden adjuster screw right inside the FD that was pushing it outwards. Changed that, all sorted. :rolleyes: Felt like a right tool.

The crank arm on the De Rosa was my fault. I did a check before I went out on it, but missed the 2 bolts on the crank arm. Ended up spinning it round up a hill and it came out. Rounded off the spines though in the process. Like I said, it was a cheap old one anyway and it had rub marks on, which annoyed me as everything was new, so secretly pleased I'm having to change it. At least everything will be nice and new now.
 
randomshenans said:
Yea, they did a test didn't they. The bonus of a 28 is that you can actually run it at a lower pressure, which is more comfortable, but then you lose the benefit of decreased rolling resistance. Its a bit rattly at 95psi on 28s but hey
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I'm fat and running panniers most of the time at the mo and I only put 75-80 in a 28
 
Hi guys, thought I might as well ask in here as opposed to starting a new thread.
I have a Planet X Stealth that I have used exclusively for the last 2 years to get me through Ironman. Now that phase has passed, I'd like to get rid of the TT bars and fit some roady drops and proper brake hoods/shifters. SRAM Red 22 mechanical medium cage as I ride a 11/32 53/39.
Why you might ask? Well the Stealth fits me like it grew there, I've ridden it all over the place over mountain ranges, bike packing trips etc etc and I love it.
It has the Red Quarq cranks so that's why I'd like to stay with SRAM.

Question is... Where's best to buy used parts? I have been looking on eBay but very reluctant to buy off there really. Not really in the market for new as then it becomes more cost effective to just buy a new Force 22 equipped Planet X!

Thanks for your thoughts :)
 
Tt forums is usually good for parts. As much as you like it, will the geometry work on the stealth as a road bike? Although if you've done all that in its current guise I suspect you'll be able to ride anything set up any old way! :D
 
I only sold my Tarmac as it stood doing nothing for so long. I am comfortable on it and don't find the geometry is particularly aggressive towards the TT style so therefore have some respectable times up Teide, Tabayesco, local climbs and various Vietnamese Mountain passes. Also, handles just fine hitting switchbacks at 55mph+

Since 'roady-ing' increasingly I find myself wanting a road setup, I've started riding socially which is obviously a problem on TT bars... I've pushed the saddle back, I'll get some angles, but I dare say the fit will be very similar to that of a road frame.

I'll check out the ttforum... Although I expect I'll find more TT parts over there :D
 
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