Rockclimbing!!

I need to get out and climb more, ive climbed so much indoors lately haha. Need to start ticking off some climbs!! climbing 7a indoors now, bit its always a reality check when you go outdoors!
 
Jonnybmac said:
how experienced would you say you would need to be to tackle something like that?
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I wouldn't say you need to be that experienced. As long as you can set up an ab, build a belay and know some basic self-rescue techniques you'll be fine.

To get the best out of it you probably want to be consistently climbing 6a+/6b level but there are plenty of single pitch and multi-pitch climbs in the 5+ range. I expect it really opens up once you can climb in the 7 range but that is a long way off for me!

There is a good video on the BMC site of Steve Mac in the Verdon.

http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/mcclure-mawson-verdon-1
 
I'm able to climb 6c+. Never had a 7a, although I came close having the moves dialed but couldn't put it together in one go. Was a very powerful overhanging problem with a sitdown start, bouldering of course.

To climb in the 7's you need to be training really hard which I dont really have the time to commit to.

Id imagine a lot of the lower grades being busy?
 
Oh right, I meant sport grades rather than boulder grades but I guess if you can boulder F6c outdoors you are probably strong enough, just a matter of endurance on the longer pitches

We went in September 2014 and there weren't really that many other climbers around.

More useful info here too: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=2076
 
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Yeah i gathered, but I dont really have much to compare to outdoor wise for sport grades, only indoor which you cant really compare to. I can relate to your endurance though, climbing at my local 25m indoor wall it can be really difficult learning how to rest and climb energy efficiently using your legs so not to pump out too early. To be fair, id probably be more comfortable at 6a, any higher and id probably struggle due to my stamina

I'll do some research on the place cheers :)

Climbing in the Verdon Gorge is a unique experience not only for the quality of the stone but for the 'top down' manner by which many of the climbs are accessed.

Reminiscent of some tidal sea cliffs there is always a doubt as one pulls the ropes, descending to an isolated hanging belay in the middle of a 400m wall. You're usually committed to climbing back out to civilisation, so make sure you've located the correct abseil access for the chosen route and that the required minimum grade of the climbing is within your ability.
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abbing into the unknown lol
 
Ready to rock/rack... :D

tAqywad.jpg
 
That's more than enough trad gear for most stuff in the UK! Got it for a bargainous price from the Outdoor show yesterday.

Of course it doesn't include the quickdraws which I already had.
 
Jonnybmac said:
To climb in the 7's you need to be training really hard which I dont really have the time to commit to.

Id imagine a lot of the lower grades being busy?
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Climbing 7's doesn't require that much training beyond making sure that you get the most value out of your sessions at the wall. Just turning up twice a week and trying things around the grade you are capable of climbing won't produce great results but if you are focussed and smart about what you do they progress should be quick.

Especially if you are talking 7s in routes. Stamina builds quickly compared to strength. Most people who don't climb very hard either have pants technique or haven't been climbing very long.

There is a tendency in climbers to take a more generalised sports approach to their training which says "if I climb 5 times a week I will get really strong and good simply by climbing". This is not the case at all. Climbing is very skill and strength based yet most people don't actively train either part.
 
I know. I need to scratch them up before I turn up at a crag! Got a 5 day trip to the Roaches planned at the end of March.

What else would you add? I already have a nut tool and plenty of QDs and screwgates. I was thinking I need to complete my second set of nuts and could maybe get one smaller cam and one larger cam at some point.
 
Nothing specific, maybe a few slings for threads. Just what ever shiny stuff catches your eye! I think I'll be getting the Grivel twin gate carabiner on my way home from the office as it's shiny, really don't need any more lockers!
 
fez said:
Climbing 7's doesn't require that much training beyond making sure that you get the most value out of your sessions at the wall. Just turning up twice a week and trying things around the grade you are capable of climbing won't produce great results but if you are focussed and smart about what you do they progress should be quick.

Especially if you are talking 7s in routes. Stamina builds quickly compared to strength. Most people who don't climb very hard either have pants technique or haven't been climbing very long.

There is a tendency in climbers to take a more generalised sports approach to their training which says "if I climb 5 times a week I will get really strong and good simply by climbing". This is not the case at all. Climbing is very skill and strength based yet most people don't actively train either part.
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its finding a balance between the 2. i only climb twice a week, 1 boulder 1 ropes. i guess its technique too of managing rests whilst pumped out on a route, as well as the balance of stamina.. going from bouldering to ropes was a huge learning curve, as bouldering you can get away with big powerful moves but on a long route, the same techniques will get you pumped way too fast, and i found its more about the feet and keeping your weight on those and not your arms

This is roughly how my kit looks now, that took me just a couple of month to build up. I've taken a stop to buying stuff now as between me and my partner in climb we have practically 2 full sets and more than enough for any climbing within our outdoor leading abilities. gear does look brand new though when you take photos of it lol

climbgear_zps8550ed9b.png


Shamrock, what i'd advise next would be to get some more sling draws. i use edelrids aramid slings for my draws and cant recommend them enough and i personally think they're better in situations where you need to thread through something.

helmet? nut key? spare snap and locking biners are always needed(dmm boa hms are great for tying in with clove hitches), as well as slings. dmm's belay master 2 is good for using as a belay biner too, especially indoors where a normal one is prone to spin. I use nylon for top rope anchors and dyneema for throwing over rocks ect.. id advise to look up the strengths and weaknesses of both dyneema and nylon slings so you use them in the correct places.\

whats peoples opinions on this?

fire_munki said:
I think I'll be getting the Grivel twin gate carabiner on my way home from the office as it's shiny, really don't need any more lockers!
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skip to half a second into 4:07 and pause, the way the gate is open with the bolt i think with enough movement, could the bolt wriggle enough to lever the first gate open like shown at 4:07, then one at this position, the second gate would just naturally open out? whilst id agree its better than a snapgate, although could be harder to clip when pumped, would it really replace a screwgate?

 
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I won't be using as a runner gate will sit on a sling for power points on big sling belays where I want a bit more security that a snap gate (don't always use lots of lockers).

And it's shiny!

That cordelette is definitely an american thing, I don't know many people who climb with that bigger a sling unless they know the'll have to build a very widely spaced belay, 240cm is the biggest really. Bit like a snake sling Andy K speaks about on his blog. Have a search on UKC there are a few forums post on it.
 
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I do like rock climbing - plus some fantastic photos from you as well.

I've only done indoor climbing though - I have basic equipment; a pair of Scarpa shoes, a combined belay/carabiner by Petzl (prevents the rope from crossing, but doesn't seem to be available anymore) and a wild country harness.

My last climbs were 5a and 5c on the weekend. Couldn't manage a 6b though I tried valiantly to do it.

Looking forwards to May though; I'm going up to the Lakes with some friends for a camping/climbing holiday, so it will be my first opportunity to climb outdoors.
 
Indoor grades are totally different to outdoor. Outdoor is so much more better. I went from indoor to out snd the transition was a lot different. A lot of jamming and cracks became a huge learning curve, as well as the height on lead.

Get a bouldering pad and get outside when the westhers decent. it will pay for itself in 10-15 climbs instead of being indoors.. so much more better, and can go places solo bouldering smaller things
 
Went for my first indoor climb last Wednesday! Really enjoyed it! Went with couple friends who have done it for years.

Failed miserably at first on a 3! In my naivety I'd looked at the walls and thought 'cant be that hard, just like climbing a ladder'... How wrong I was. Wasn't expected how physically demanding it was.

However I kept ploughing on and finished accomplishing a couple 4b's which went alright once I got use to it.

Hopefully going again this week!
 
ChocolateStarfishRammer said:
Went for my first indoor climb last Wednesday! Really enjoyed it! Went with couple friends who have done it for years.

Failed miserably at first on a 3! In my naivety I'd looked at the walls and thought 'cant be that hard, just like climbing a ladder'... How wrong I was. Wasn't expected how physically demanding it was.

However I kept ploughing on and finished accomplishing a couple 4b's which went alright once I got use to it.

Hopefully going again this week!
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It gets addictive, mainly because no matter what level you're at there is always something to challenge you! It's all about technique and footwork! work on your footwork from day one and you'll benefit more in the long run
 
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