Rockclimbing!!

Just started including static hangs at various arm extensions into my evenings climbings. Actually training specifics now. I want to be able to climb F7 routes by the end of the year indoors so I know I need more strength and technique.
 
Now that was a fun sesh on Sunday. 2/3 of the way up two very different f6b routes and a 1/3 up another f6b.
One crimpy, one just tiny tiny holds and one massive open handed ones.
Gonna take a lot of work but will put on course for climbing a f7 by the end of the year. My goal for the year.
 
And as an update I now have a lot of cams, got a set of 1 -5 dragons with krabs for 150 quid.
Just got some new la spotiva katanas, in size 6 1/2 my normal walking arouind size is between 8 1/2 and 9!
 
Yeah I know, but its a goal!
And there's very little sport down in Devon bar stuff start at F6b really.
It's all trad here, want to get over to Spain for a week for sun, sangria and sport but it's gonna be next year now.
 
I went yesterday with my girlfriends brother who in a instructor.

For some reason he took me on a HS4, wierdly I'm scared of heights but didn't really worry about it on a rope but did at the top when I was standing up.
 
Damn, training hard and I've got myself golfer's elbow, like tennis but other side of the arm.
No more dead hangs for a month, forcing back to kettlebells which can't be a bad thing.
 
Thanks to fire_munki for pointing me this way!

I used to do a bit of bouldering, haven't really done it in a while, but I'm looking to start taking it a bit more seriously again. Are there any good bouldering walls in the north London/Hertfordshire area?

I'm not overly interested in rope climbing as of yet, the convenience of bouldering appeals to me. :)
 
fire_munki said:
Damn, training hard and I've got myself golfer's elbow, like tennis but other side of the arm.
No more dead hangs for a month, forcing back to kettlebells which can't be a bad thing.
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Take it easy with that. I gave myself Golfer's elbow (Medial epicondile) a couple of years ago at Font and it takes AGES to heal. You have to stop climbing for a good month or two and do the exercises here:

http://www.drjuliansaunders.com/resources/feature_articles/dodgy_elbows/

If you dont stop climbing for a bit and dont do the exercises then it wont go away.
 
I've found that twisting exercise on the UKC website and it has help lots. Been climbing very lightly until this weekend and I reckon I'm almost good.
Now looking at some winter boots and crampons to get nice and cold.
 
Do a course first. WestCoast Mountain Guides in Fort William, run by Alan Kimber, are brilliant.

For boots, well.... theres tons to choose from. Im still using the same pair of Scarpa Alphas and Grivel G12s that I bought back in 2002. Winter gear ain't cheap but it'll last you years if you look after it.

Link for the twisting exercise?
 
fire_munki said:
Damn, training hard and I've got myself golfer's elbow, like tennis but other side of the arm.
No more dead hangs for a month, forcing back to kettlebells which can't be a bad thing.
Click to expand...

Dead hangs are infamous for causing elbow problems. High intensity climbing training or bouldering puts huge strain on the tendons and ligaments. A common problem with young beginners is that their muscle strength can increase much faster than strengthening of the tendons and ligaments which can lead to injury. Tendon/ligament injury can take a very long time to heal so avoid it.

tbh at your level, S and indoor 6b, you shouldn't be doing that sort of finger training anyway. General fitness and bodyweight strength training is good but the best training for someone at your standard is climbing either at the wall or outside. Lots of mileage will gradually increase your strength, both muscular and of tendons/ligaments with less risk of injury but will also improve your technique.

If you have trad kit there is loads of great climbing in the South West. Get out on the sea cliffs or Dartmoor. Far more fun than what colour route you can do at the wall ;) Obviously that is assuming you are competent leading trad and understand the dangers of seacliff climbing and how to deal with them.
 
Not climbed on sea cliffs yet, off on Dartmoor most weekends.
Had an epic on the Dewerstone last night, the leader went off route to something a lot harder than planned and then it got dark.
Head torch to the rescue!
Although I was sketching out and shaking like Micheal J Fox by the time I got to the top.
 
Something similar happened to us years ago on... Ben Nevis! Was doing a big line on the North Face but set off far too late, went off route, ended up sleeping on a ledge in the rain (one bivi bag and one down jacket between two of us) and finishing in the morning. Total cockup but a right old laugh! It's the 'epics' that you learn from :)

Freebooter's comments are total sense. As I said in the Bouldering thread, the best way to get strong at climbing is .... to go climbing! Although sensbile use of finger boards can give you quick gains as well, just don't over do it. Getting golfers elbow at an early stage is not the way to go as it can take years to shift properly. Even when you 'think' you've got it beat it can come back with a vengeance.
 
Yeah staying away from finger board stuff for a while, just simple bodyweight and kettlebell excerises.
Its the epics that stay in your head. I'm sitting at work now feeling knackered and slightly achy but it was amazing.
 
fire_munki said:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3614
Risking some second hand boots and a unused pair of G12s.
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Hmmm, risking second hand boots is definitely not the best way to go, I hope you haven't wasted your cash. Getting Winter boots that fit properly is crucial otherwise you can be in big trouble when in the mountains. Winter boots need to hold your feet correctly - there needs to be nearly zero heel slip, they need to grip your forefoot correctly and have space in the front to allow you to kick steps into snow without damaging your toes. They also need to support your lower shins so you can carry your weight correctly when balancing on the crampon tips.

I hired many different types of boots in my first winter season before buying a set (second hand admittedly) which I knew would fit perfectly.

Going into the Scottish hills with ill-fitting boots is a recipe for pain!
 
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