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So after a lot more research ive decided to get a ball python found a breeder who is local and i have asked him to hold his last snake for me until next weekend until i get all my bits sorted and have everything set up properly.

Ive done quite abit of research but does anyone have any tips for setting everything up still unsure on what substate to use ill be using a heat mat for now for heating.
 
Aspen for bedding, absorbs any pee nicely and doesn't stink while it's at it. You might want to seal some lino to the floor over the heat mat and probe to prevent pee and water getting to them. Provide plenty of branches as anyone who tells you a royal won't climb is inherently untrustworthy. Don't use the stick on gauge thermometers, use a digital one or a temp gun.

That's pretty much it, they're reasonably simple to put together. :)
 
DannyDrama said:
I'm not even a member of the forums, banned from one and left the other. I only bother with FB for the pretty pictures and an odd question, totally ignore any arguing etc. Will answer a question and if it sounds like there's going to be an argument I just don't reply.

I'm not going to sit and argue with someone whilst watching their animal go down the pan, it just enrages me. Another one is 'does it need a vet?'. Well if you're asking...

And that isn't harsh. The girl I got an underfed, dehydrated, excrement-covered, shredded looking boa from ended up crying and running out. I'd never seen any animal in such a sorry state and when she said she was too scared to do anything with it I lost my **** in a big way. It had obviously been that way for many weeks, more like months.
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Don't blame you for that. I would have been the same. Too scared! The vast majority of boas are totally docile anyway. The likelihood of getting bitten when feeding correctly or changing water is pretty remote.

It's these cases that reinforce the general publics idea of reptile keeping being a cruel hobby. You only have to read the comments on a DM reptile story to see what I mean. Hundreds of green arrows for comments on snakes being banned from sale in the UK. We all end up getting tarred with the same brush and its not fair.
 
Anyone think of anything im missing before i order minds gone blank so far got these in my basket

2 x medium hides 23cm x 16 x 6
2 x digital thermometer
10ltr aspen bedding
28cm x 15cm 7w heatmat
Habistat mat stat
Water bowl
 
Feeding tongs. Also some water conditioner if you are using tap water. Personally, I use the mega cheap Asdas own brand spring water. Some viv clean solution also. It lasts a long time that stuff, so is worth getting.

I have a hygrometer too, to measure humidity. You can use a basic exo terra stick on one. Also, a spray bottle is handy for use when your royal goes into shed and needs a little extra humidity. I don't find humidity a problem in an average house though. Never had shedding problems with my girl.

Also make sure you have somewhere to put the snake when you are doing maintenance. You can get a second rub for this, but personally I use a large pillow case. She seems to relax when she's in one.
 
robfosters said:
Don't blame you for that. I would have been the same. Too scared! The vast majority of boas are totally docile anyway. The likelihood of getting bitten when feeding correctly or changing water is pretty remote.

It's these cases that reinforce the general publics idea of reptile keeping being a cruel hobby. You only have to read the comments on a DM reptile story to see what I mean. Hundreds of green arrows for comments on snakes being banned from sale in the UK. We all end up getting tarred with the same brush and its not fair.
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To be fair this boa was an utter swine, made worse by the length of time with no handling. I can understand being wary after a bite, but not leaving it to languish in it's own faeces for a long time. He bit me about 5 times when I got him home, when I rehomed him a year later he left quietly in the arms of a happy ten year old.

Reptiles I believe are third largest group of pets after cats and dogs, so it's not the general public, just DM reading lunatics who don't want imported animals stealing British animals' jobs or something. They have it a lot worse in the US, large constrictors are no longer allowed to be imported or moved over state lines. :eek:
 
Yeah ill be using tapwater although it is filtered ill get some treatment to be on the safe side. Good call on the feeding tongues completely skipped my mind.

Just a quick question about when im going to pick her up and im going to feel real dumb here but what should i take with me to put her in the RUB is going to be abit of a maul to take.
 
ValiantUK91 said:
Yeah ill be using tapwater although it is filtered ill get some treatment to be on the safe side. Good call on the feeding tongues completely skipped my mind.

Just a quick question about when im going to pick her up and im going to feel real dumb here but what should i take with me to put her in the RUB is going to be abit of a maul to take.
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Just a pillowcase will be fine, you can tie a knot in it and just whack her on the seat as co-pilot. :)

You should see the looks in the vet when I arrive with a duvet cover full of snake like an evil santa. :p
 
I bet they love you there haha, all my stuff should be here by tuesday and the breeder has said he will be free wednesday night now so ill be picking her up then instead of the weekend.

Just got to see if any of the local shops have rat chubs in now i know they all have mice in but not sure on rats shes a fussy eater apparently.
 
Swell.co.uk do next day delivery on frozen stuff if you order before 1 or 2pm, prices aren't bad either. I wouldn't listen too much to the fussy eater routine, everyone says that about them. Just try different things, nothing says they only have to eat one thing.
 
My Royal ate mice as a baby and moved on to rats no problem at all.

Don't be surprised if she has periods of fasting. Royals are well known for it. If at any point she refuses, just keep offering once a week, make sure she's well hydrated and monitor her weight. Fasting, but healthy snakes maintain their weight. Any sudden loss could be the sign of illness. You can check a snake is hydrated by pinching their skin. A dehydrated snake loses the elasticity in their skin and it sinks back very slowly. Their eyes can sink as well, but that normally happens when dehydration is advanced.
 
Also be ready for some funny breathing shedding time. They quite often develop a whistle from an odd scale in the nostrils. Makes them sound like a hilarious squeaky toy.

One of mine develops extreme symptoms of a respiratory illness that magically disappear when he sheds. It's cost me loads in vet bills and we're no closer to why it happens. They have a fluid between layers of skin and my theory is that it leaks into his nose and blocks him up as he breathes through his mouth. Untested as yet but the vet thinks it quite possible.
 
Aspen is OK but personally I favour Lignocel. I use it for my corn. I used to use aspen but I found lignocel to be cleaner / less dusty.

I also personally would not use a heat mat. Just today I have seen a Royal with SEVERE burns from a mat. I use a cermaic heat emitter with a guard, but you have other options too - Heat cables (good if you are using a RUB to start off with before moving up to a viv) being one.
 
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BDEE said:
Aspen is OK but personally I favour Lignocel. I use it for my corn. I used to use aspen but I found lignocel to be cleaner / less dusty.

I also personally would not use a heat mat. Just today I have seen a Royal with SEVERE burns from a mat. I use a cermaic heat emitter with a guard, but you have other options too - Heat cables (good if you are using a RUB to start off with before moving up to a viv) being one.
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The safest way to use a heatmat with a rub is to not mount it inside the RUB. The best way to do it is to stick it to the underside of the RUB and then cover it with a square of polystyrene. Slice some slots in the polystyrene so the mat can breathe. Finally, drill a hole through the RUB for the probe. The mat gets nowhere near hot enough to affect the polystyrene and it helps it to direct the heat where it needs to go rather than elsewhere. And the snake is totally safe from burns.

I see you have a mat stat in your list. I think the extra £15 is worth it for the pulse proportional stat. Those mat stats are just on/off switchers and the temperature swings are greater than with the PP stat, which puts a variable rate of current through to keep the correct temperature. You can use it again later if you wish in a viv with a ceramic heater. The mat stat will be useless once you finish with the RUB. https://www.reptiles.swelluk.com/habistat-high-range-pulse-thermostat/
 
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All of the stuff was purchased earlier but i have just got hold of a Vivexotic Vx24 for next to nothing that comes with heatmat, thermometer, heat rock and UV and moonlight effect lights (Anything worth keeping?) do you think it would be to big to put her straight into at the moment (shes around 1ft) ive seen a lot of different comments on this a lot say aslong as there is hides for her she will be okay and wont go off her food as she will still feel secure in a bigger enclosure but im not to sure.

If its fine to put her in now ill pass the heat mats on to my mateas he uses a lot of RUBs and ill go the ceramic heater route if that is better for vivs.
 
ValiantUK91 said:
All of the stuff was purchased earlier but i have just got hold of a Vivexotic Vx24 for next to nothing that comes with heatmat, thermometer, heat rock and UV and moonlight effect lights (Anything worth keeping?) do you think it would be to big to put her straight into at the moment (shes around 1ft) ive seen a lot of different comments on this a lot say aslong as there is hides for her she will be okay and wont go off her food as she will still feel secure in a bigger enclosure but im not to sure.

If its fine to put her in now ill pass the heat mats on to my mateas he uses a lot of RUBs and ill go the ceramic heater route if that is better for vivs.
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I would ditch the heat rock straight away, they are known for causing burns.
 
ValiantUK91 said:
All of the stuff was purchased earlier but i have just got hold of a Vivexotic Vx24 for next to nothing that comes with heatmat, thermometer, heat rock and UV and moonlight effect lights (Anything worth keeping?) do you think it would be to big to put her straight into at the moment (shes around 1ft) ive seen a lot of different comments on this a lot say aslong as there is hides for her she will be okay and wont go off her food as she will still feel secure in a bigger enclosure but im not to sure.

If its fine to put her in now ill pass the heat mats on to my mateas he uses a lot of RUBs and ill go the ceramic heater route if that is better for vivs.
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I think a 2ft could well be OK. As you said, providing there are enough hides, it should be fine. As long as the viv is not in a busy place in the house with lots of footsteps and people waling around, I think it will be fine.

As said, ditch the heat rock and UV . One burns and the others not required for snakes.

Keep the stuff you have ordered. If there are problems, then you can put her in the RUB. But honestly, I think you will be OK with a 2ft.

Actually, everything apart from the viv is really not ideal at all. Just keep the viv and get a ceramic heater like an AHS unit. The 150w here will be fine for a 2ft viv. https://www.reptiles.swelluk.com/microclimate-ahs-heaters/
 
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Yeah there will be 3 hides one at either end then one somewhere in between and will be quite as there is only me in the house half the time and yeah like i said after posting it i realised i dont need any of it.

So you would recommend a ahs heaterover a ceramic bulb then.
 
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