Sim racers - what are you running?

Cantankerous said:
What's peoples opinions on budget pedals?

From reading around it seems to be the Fantec CSL as the recommended set. Anyone used them?
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I initially bought the 2 pedal set (without load cell brake). The build quality seems to be nice, not rattles or play in them, but I have ordered (arriving today coincidentally) the load cell brake pedal as I dont like the feel of the sponge resistor that you get on the basic pedal. I should have it installed later today so will report back in the next couple of days as to the improvements (if any).
 
So I recently bought a Thrustmaster T-GT in preparation for F1 22. I was playing with a controller on 21, and in a league with me and 2 others, we were regularly battling for a podium spot.

Since playing 22 with my friend yesterday, something is really wrong with using the wheel. I've got the Ferrari add- on wheel for reference.

I'm 4-5s down from my friend who's qualifying first, and that's with me driving clean laps, and I'm honestly not sure why I'm losing so much time. I'm starting from the back, even almost 1s from 19th, and can't catch them during a race (driving a Ferrari), so surely it can't be a case of just getting used to the wheel?

I first had doubts yesterday, and after checking calibration settings, I realised the conical mod on the brake pedal was only allowing me to apply 60% pressure, so I was overshooting corners and had to over correct. But I removed that and thought the issue was resolved.

I did a practice run with the wheel and the controller in Bahrain, to confirm it was that, and not a general pace issue. Ended up being 4s quicker with the controller over the wheel. It seems that I'm understeering in the smaller corners where you're meant to be going full throttle...

I've tried to change various settings, turning Understeer Enhance on and offer, the steering angle from 360° to 300° and 270°, linearity to 50 etc. And it made the cornering feel better, but didn't improve my lap times at all.

Am I doing something wrong? Or could something be up with the wheel? I understand I need to get used to it, but surely I shouldn't be struggling to catch a Williams in a Ferrari!?
 
i would certainly do a lot of testing with settings on the wheel, I went from being competitive using a logitech G29 to being about 3-4 seconds slower when i got my Fanatec DD, took me a few weeks of playing around with the brake pressure sensitivity, FFB on the wheel etc and i'm now back to slightly faster than before but i still have some fine tuning i feel needs to be done. Done expect to be immediately where you where when you change controller types the feedback etc is totally different so you'll need to get used to what it is telling you.

I just looked at various online suggestions but then tailored them to my driving style, such as I don't turn the wheel as much as other people so i reduced the steering angle etc

For reference my current settings are within fanalab

FFB 93%
Steering 180
Brake force 5%

Ingame
FFB 80
On track effects 10
rumble 30 off track 15
wheel damper 0
understeer off
 
AlphariusOmegan said:
i would certainly do a lot of testing with settings on the wheel, I went from being competitive using a logitech G29 to being about 3-4 seconds slower when i got my Fanatec DD, took me a few weeks of playing around with the brake pressure sensitivity, FFB on the wheel etc and i'm now back to slightly faster than before but i still have some fine tuning i feel needs to be done. Done expect to be immediately where you where when you change controller types the feedback etc is totally different so you'll need to get used to what it is telling you.

I just looked at various online suggestions but then tailored them to my driving style, such as I don't turn the wheel as much as other people so i reduced the steering angle etc

For reference my current settings are within fanalab

FFB 93%
Steering 180
Brake force 5%

Ingame
FFB 80
On track effects 10
rumble 30 off track 15
wheel damper 0
understeer off
Click to expand...
Thanks, was just driving me a bit crazy, not bring able to catch a back marker while in one of the fastest cars, driving a relatively clean lap.
I think it's an understeer issue, as in Bahrain, when I switched to controller, I instantly could take certain corners perfectly, whereas with the wheel I'd be fighting with it and going wide...
 
@gamerTM21 I gather that the game currently sees TM wheels (and perhaps others) as a D-pad, which means you can't defeat the speed sensitive steering that you need when you play the game with a pad. This is why you're getting that understeer.
Tbh, the F1 games have always been relatively crap with a wheel anyway. Good luck :)
 
gamerTM21 said:
So I recently bought a Thrustmaster T-GT in preparation for F1 22. I was playing with a controller on 21, and in a league with me and 2 others, we were regularly battling for a podium spot.

Since playing 22 with my friend yesterday, something is really wrong with using the wheel. I've got the Ferrari add- on wheel for reference.

I'm 4-5s down from my friend who's qualifying first, and that's with me driving clean laps, and I'm honestly not sure why I'm losing so much time. I'm starting from the back, even almost 1s from 19th, and can't catch them during a race (driving a Ferrari), so surely it can't be a case of just getting used to the wheel?

I first had doubts yesterday, and after checking calibration settings, I realised the conical mod on the brake pedal was only allowing me to apply 60% pressure, so I was overshooting corners and had to over correct. But I removed that and thought the issue was resolved.

I did a practice run with the wheel and the controller in Bahrain, to confirm it was that, and not a general pace issue. Ended up being 4s quicker with the controller over the wheel. It seems that I'm understeering in the smaller corners where you're meant to be going full throttle...

I've tried to change various settings, turning Understeer Enhance on and offer, the steering angle from 360° to 300° and 270°, linearity to 50 etc. And it made the cornering feel better, but didn't improve my lap times at all.

Am I doing something wrong? Or could something be up with the wheel? I understand I need to get used to it, but surely I shouldn't be struggling to catch a Williams in a Ferrari!?
Click to expand...
Ive also noticed issues with F1 22 on a T300 servo. Obviously the main thing that is different is the car models this year are more planted to the floor so going over curbs and sausages is more brutal and has a higher chance of resulting in a slide or a spin. Lower gears are way more sensitive to spin too. Im way more afraid of going past fast corners in this game because the car is allergic to them it seems, so end up losing time also. Also no porpoising for some reason.
 
I'm looking at upgrading my G27, primarily for Assetto Corsa but I also play Dirt Rally and Dirt Rally 2.0. I've not yet delved into iRacing but by the sounds of it might end up there if I get into it more.
As per thread, i'm PC only so no need for Xbox or PS compatibility.

Initially I was looking at 2nd hand Fanatec gear like a CSL Elite but with many things to go wrong it's probably best to buy new.

The more I researched it seems Fanatec have quality control problems, the quick release system on the CSL DD is not great and they also have stocking and customer service issues.
I will be table mounting only (160cm length heavy table) to start with as do not have space for a rig or even playseat type chair in a 2 bed flat. Maybe a rig will come in the future, once I've upgraded my house!

The Moza R9 with table mount, cs wheel and srp pedals was recommended by Ben at Abruzzi Official which is a UK reseller of Moza, Simagic and other makes. Total cost comes to £900 for the R9, CS round wheel, table mount and SRP 2 pedal set. I can always add a clutch pedal later down the line but then would probably get an H shifter / gear stick too. A pedal upgrade to the srp are the crp pedals, but quite a jump from £169 to £449.

The Moza R9 looks like its much better made and not as bulky as the Fanatec CSL DD. Only time will tell if the quality holds up but there is a lifetime warranty if it fails so not a big issue really.


Other than a Simagic Alpha Mini & GT1-R Bundle for £895, plus SRP pedals for £169, is there any other makes / options to consider? A big point against the Alpha mini for me is the lack of table mount. I would need to drill/saw/make something on my desk and I like the idea of a table mount which can be removed when not in use (as I do with my G27)
 
Guest2 said:
I'm looking at upgrading my G27, primarily for Assetto Corsa but I also play Dirt Rally and Dirt Rally 2.0. I've not yet delved into iRacing but by the sounds of it might end up there if I get into it more.
As per thread, i'm PC only so no need for Xbox or PS compatibility.

Initially I was looking at 2nd hand Fanatec gear like a CSL Elite but with many things to go wrong it's probably best to buy new.

The more I researched it seems Fanatec have quality control problems, the quick release system on the CSL DD is not great and they also have stocking and customer service issues.
I will be table mounting only (160cm length heavy table) to start with as do not have space for a rig or even playseat type chair in a 2 bed flat. Maybe a rig will come in the future, once I've upgraded my house!

The Moza R9 with table mount, cs wheel and srp pedals was recommended by Ben at Abruzzi Official which is a UK reseller of Moza, Simagic and other makes. Total cost comes to £900 for the R9, CS round wheel, table mount and SRP 2 pedal set. I can always add a clutch pedal later down the line but then would probably get an H shifter / gear stick too. A pedal upgrade to the srp are the crp pedals, but quite a jump from £169 to £449.

The Moza R9 looks like its much better made and not as bulky as the Fanatec CSL DD. Only time will tell if the quality holds up but there is a lifetime warranty if it fails so not a big issue really.


Other than a Simagic Alpha Mini & GT1-R Bundle for £895, plus SRP pedals for £169, is there any other makes / options to consider? A big point against the Alpha mini for me is the lack of table mount. I would need to drill/saw/make something on my desk and I like the idea of a table mount which can be removed when not in use (as I do with my G27)
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Moza r9 plus there wheels are pretty damm good from reviews I've read and seen.

Simagic mini is also worth looking at because it has more nm torque than the r9. It's been rated at around 11.8nm when reviewers and other users measured it even though its 10nm specified on the spec sheet

There are members on this thread who have a simagic mini who can comment more regarding the wheel base
 
Muska said:
I use a set of csl elites, the 2 pedal set.

Having previously had Thrustmaster, Logitech, Fanatec V3's & Heusinkvelds, these are a great budget set of pedals. I paid about £80 and Ive been in no rush to get back to a high end load cell setup.

They work pretty well in Star citizen too
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Interesting. Everything i've read so far is contradictive to this... That pedals are there the money is best well spent getting something really good (and usually really expensive)
If this is the case I might pick up some CSL elites with load cell kit and save myself a good chunk of money. CSL pedals with load cell sell (haha) 2nd hand for around £170 currently
 
jonneymendoza said:
Moza r9 plus there wheels are pretty damm good from reviews I've read and seen.

Simagic mini is also worth looking at because it has more nm torque than the r9. It's been rated at around 11.8nm when reviewers and other users measured it even though its 10nm specified on the spec sheet

There are members on this thread who have a simagic mini who can comment more regarding the wheel base
Click to expand...
Thanks. There are not many reviews and ratings for the R9 yet so whilst on paper its 9Nm, it may be higher at say 11 or 12 like the Simagic mini. I think the peak o the mini is 13Nm.
Either way, coming from a G27 which is about 2Nm, i'm sure 9 will easily be enough to start with!
 
You'll be fine with the R9. Ben's recommended setup is pretty much on point for your needs (I had good comms with him when I got my Mini).

What's your seating setup? A desk chair on wheels probably won't go well with the average loadcell set.
 
Uncle Petey said:
You'll be fine with the R9. Ben's recommended setup is pretty much on point for your needs (I had good comms with him when I got my Mini).

What's your seating setup? A desk chair on wheels probably won't go well with the average loadcell set.
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Desk chair, this with slide back arm rests and gas stem. I wont be changing it any time soon!

www.posturite.co.uk

HÅG SoFi 7500 Silver Frame Mesh High Back Task Chair

The innovative heavy duty mesh on the SoFi 7500 Chair offers the perfect balance between support and air-flow, while giving your office a contemporary look
www.posturite.co.uk www.posturite.co.uk
 
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Guest2 said:
Desk chair, this with slide back arm rests and gas stem. I wont be changing it any time soon!

www.posturite.co.uk

HÅG SoFi 7500 Silver Frame Mesh High Back Task Chair

The innovative heavy duty mesh on the SoFi 7500 Chair offers the perfect balance between support and air-flow, while giving your office a contemporary look
www.posturite.co.uk www.posturite.co.uk
Click to expand...
After £1200, I wouldn't either :cry:

Unless you can sort a reliable locking caster solution or something, you probably shouldn't go with a loadcell set. However, the T-LCM's aren't too hardcore with pressure requirements and should be ok with the upright angle of your seating position. Perhaps look at those.
 
Uncle Petey said:
After £1200, I wouldn't either :cry:

Unless you can sort a reliable locking caster solution or something, you probably shouldn't go with a loadcell set. However, the T-LCM's aren't too hardcore with pressure requirements and should be ok with the upright angle of your seating position. Perhaps look at those.
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There's the foot of a bed right behind my chair which stops it pushing back... and a wall at the head of the bed.
 
Guest2 said:
There's the foot of a bed right behind my chair which stops it pushing back... and a wall at the head of the bed.
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Ok, you could probably get away with a firmer set then. I assume the pedals can be braced up against the wall or something?
Given the seating position, you are slightly limited to sets that have more of a laid back angle, which would be stuff like the SRP / T-LCM / CSL, or even a second hand set of CSR Elites.
 
Guest2 said:
Desk chair, this with slide back arm rests and gas stem. I wont be changing it any time soon!

www.posturite.co.uk

HÅG SoFi 7500 Silver Frame Mesh High Back Task Chair

The innovative heavy duty mesh on the SoFi 7500 Chair offers the perfect balance between support and air-flow, while giving your office a contemporary look
www.posturite.co.uk www.posturite.co.uk
Click to expand...
It's pretty easy to knock up a DIY solution that will connect the pedals to the front wheels of the chair so you are basically pushing against your own body weight.

Such as https://imgur.com/a/G706w
 
Cantankerous said:
What's peoples opinions on budget pedals?

From reading around it seems to be the Fantec CSL as the recommended set. Anyone used them?
Click to expand...

Wang said:
I initially bought the 2 pedal set (without load cell brake). The build quality seems to be nice, not rattles or play in them, but I have ordered (arriving today coincidentally) the load cell brake pedal as I dont like the feel of the sponge resistor that you get on the basic pedal. I should have it installed later today so will report back in the next couple of days as to the improvements (if any).
Click to expand...

So having used them for a couple of weeks, the load cell pedal is extremely stiff if you don't have a sim rig/seat etc. I have nailed the pedals to the floor and have got weights holding my chair in place and have still had to drop the input strength to 60%.

I have since ordered the replacement inserts from 3DRap which has improved pedal travel somewhat (previously it only moved about 7-8mm, now I get approx 15mm) but it still feels in need of much more secure footings to feel confident in stamping on the brake. I don't doubt for a moment it is ultimately going to improve my driving, but I'd say you almost certainly need some sort of rig/cockpit to use it correctly.
 
Why are pedals so stiff, it’s not as if real car pedals are hard as nails to press down.
The hardest car pedals ive used were in my mum and dads old peugeot 405 estate that had about 200k on the clock!
Or do rally & f1 cars have rock hard pedals? (I wouldnt know about them unfortunately)
 
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