Sim racers - what are you running?

Just took delivery of a t300rs gt and had it setup over the weekend. Been playing assetto corsa mainly.

Had content manager and csp installed and just doing some hot laps and races against ai to get the feel of it.

Enjoying it so far and just trying to stay on track for a full lap.
 
Why are pedals so stiff, it’s not as if real car pedals are hard as nails to press down.
The hardest car pedals ive used were in my mum and dads old peugeot 405 estate that had about 200k on the clock!
Or do rally & f1 cars have rock hard pedals? (I wouldnt know about them unfortunately)
it will be down to the person driving but think about it like this everything ideally you want precision. so a sloppy 405 estate feel isnt going to cut it as you are racing and need to feel everything and do everything as precisely as possible.
 
Just took delivery of a t300rs gt and had it setup over the weekend. Been playing assetto corsa mainly.

Had content manager and csp installed and just doing some hot laps and races against ai to get the feel of it.

Enjoying it so far and just trying to stay on track for a full lap.
dont copy peoples set ups. start at base learn the cars tracks events. then you either do get faster slowly approach or like me you instantly floor it and learn by what you cant do.
 
it will be down to the person driving but think about it like this everything ideally you want precision. so a sloppy 405 estate feel isnt going to cut it as you are racing and need to feel everything and do everything as precisely as possible.
You can still have be precise on soft (or not rock solid) pedals. I guess (with F1 at least) the brake is hard so not to accidentally press it and its more like an on/off switch. Could be wrong, i've never driven an F1 car!
 
Just took delivery of a t300rs gt and had it setup over the weekend. Been playing assetto corsa mainly.

Had content manager and csp installed and just doing some hot laps and races against ai to get the feel of it.

Enjoying it so far and just trying to stay on track for a full lap.
I'm not that far ahead of you.

Start by setting up a (free) account on Race department and get the fantastic McLaren MP4-20 by VRC. https://www.vrc-modding-team.net/show/16
It's nice and easy to control.

Then get Spa 1966 track, again easy and can also go flat out most of the track. https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...eral-discussion.307899/page-368#post-12785984
Aim for about a 3 minute lap time

From there I moved on to Silverstone 1967, Silverstone GP and Monza.
Car wise, the Lotus Exos 125 Stage 1 around Silverstone GP is slightly more challenging. I've only managed a 1:49:05 on this but still great fun

I'm on a Logitech G27 but in the process of going direct drive (Moza R9)

edit. Well, that's it, order dropped!

Moza R9 direct drive wheelbase
Moza R2 table mounting bracket
Moza CS Round wheel
Moza SRP 2 pedal set
Moza SRP clutch

£926.90 in total
Time to sell my G27 plus some other old gear and no Lurpak for me for a while :D
I can sort of justify it (in my head) as sim gear appears to be holding it's value quite well at the moment and/or going out of stock/not available. I guess if it only gets light use, I can re-sell in a year or so and stand to not lose too much
 
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Been focusing on Brands Hatch with the MX5 ND and been improving every session. Currently have the T300 setup with an XR Gaming stand - pretty much a GT Omega Classic rip off that I got off FB marketplace.

I'm in the process of getting a car seat bolted onto a wooden base as my computer chair(Steelcase Leap) is too high. I'm planning to keep the wheelstand and chair itself separate, would there be any disadvantage to this? All DIY rigs I've seen have the wheel/seat in one platform.
 
Been focusing on Brands Hatch with the MX5 ND and been improving every session. Currently have the T300 setup with an XR Gaming stand - pretty much a GT Omega Classic rip off that I got off FB marketplace.

I'm in the process of getting a car seat bolted onto a wooden base as my computer chair(Steelcase Leap) is too high. I'm planning to keep the wheelstand and chair itself separate, would there be any disadvantage to this? All DIY rigs I've seen have the wheel/seat in one platform.
When you press the brake pedal hard you don't want the pedals to run away from you. If everything is "together" you'll not get this.
 
When you press the brake pedal hard you don't want the pedals to run away from you. If everything is "together" you'll not get this.
Here's my current ghetto method. Metal chair against back of bed, box behind pedals.

I sort of need to move my PC or rotate it to the left so I can line everything up (monitor is slightly left) If I do that though, either cables don't reach or I would hit my knee on my PC. Might just move my monitor to the right instead but then it might block a screen I use for WFH which is next to it.

It should be interesting when my direct drive unit, wheel and load cell pedals arrive this week. Box can be changed for a different sized one, block of wood, metal or anything else.

(FYI and before anyone chimes in "oh, your PC is on the floor it's going to overhead and die" It's not, its been there years and runs nice and cool. Sits on a slab of wood off the carpet. It also gets hoovered out regulaly)

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You can still have be precise on soft (or not rock solid) pedals. I guess (with F1 at least) the brake is hard so not to accidentally press it and its more like an on/off switch. Could be wrong, i've never driven an F1 car!

With Load Cell pedals braking is measured by the force not the amount of movement. Setting up a load cell to mirror a Logitech pedal is defeating the point of a load cell.
 
With Load Cell pedals braking is measured by the force not the amount of movement. Setting up a load cell to mirror a Logitech pedal is defeating the point of a load cell.
Im now on load cell pedals (and direct drive) Moza SR-P pedals, R9 and CS wheel
 
I've just ordered a Simagic Alpha Mini + GT4 Carbon bundle. I'm yet to decide on pedals but leaning towards HE Sprints. I'd like to get a separate QR, aftermarket wheel, shifter and handbrake at some point so I can do rally as well so thinking the HE shifter and handbrake unless anyone can suggest anything better for reasonable money?

I'm planning on building my own sim rig. Probably out of wood initially as my dad is a carpenter and it'll be a prototype for the sort of thing I want when I come to make one out of 8020.

I did consider the Moza R9 but it was out of stock everywhere and the VRS DirectForce Pro but that was more money and involved buying button plates, a QR, wheel, etc. and dealing with importing from Europe. I like how compact the Alpha Mini is. The VRS seems to need a lot of space, lots of long cables, etc. Not sure if I've made the right decision there but given my experience of wheels is a Logitech Momo many years ago I'm sure I'll be very happy with the Mini.
 
I've just ordered a Simagic Alpha Mini + GT4 Carbon bundle. I'm yet to decide on pedals but leaning towards HE Sprints. I'd like to get a separate QR, aftermarket wheel, shifter and handbrake at some point so I can do rally as well so thinking the HE shifter and handbrake unless anyone can suggest anything better for reasonable money?

I'm planning on building my own sim rig. Probably out of wood initially as my dad is a carpenter and it'll be a prototype for the sort of thing I want when I come to make one out of 8020.

I did consider the Moza R9 but it was out of stock everywhere and the VRS DirectForce Pro but that was more money and involved buying button plates, a QR, wheel, etc. and dealing with importing from Europe. I like how compact the Alpha Mini is. The VRS seems to need a lot of space, lots of long cables, etc. Not sure if I've made the right decision there but given my experience of wheels is a Logitech Momo many years ago I'm sure I'll be very happy with the Mini.
The Alpha sounded great, similar to the Moza R9 but more powerful and a slight bit more expensive by the sounds of it.
Here's my R9


 
The Alpha sounded great, similar to the Moza R9 but more powerful and a slight bit more expensive by the sounds of it.
Here's my R9

I paid £1,020 for the Alpha Mini and GT4 with the extra clutch paddles from Abruzzi. I had a back and forth with Ben from there because they test the combos before sending as they've had some returns for wheel LEDs not working, etc. Mine wasn't registering the rotaries. Turned out to just be a loose plug. They checked the rest of the base over as a matter of course. Good customer service and comms so far. Looking back through the thread, your R9 setup seems like an absolute bargain for just over £900. I set myself a fairly firm line in the sand of about £1,500 all in for wheel, base and pedals but would have probably gone for the setup you did if lack of stock hadn't forced my hand. I did price up a Simucube 2 Pro because it's supposed to be the 'be all, end all' but that ended up being almost £1,000 more than the Mini and I honestly don't think I'll be good enough to notice the difference for a while :D I also struggled to find any wheels that I liked as much as the Simagic ones, were reasonably priced, and wireless.

I'd have liked the round rim as I think that's more versatile but I've been enjoying some GT3/4 and F1 lately on controller and figured it would be good to have a fully featured wheel with buttons for that and something simpler for rally where I can't imagine needing many/any wheel buttons.

That quick release noise is glorious. How are you finding the R9? How about the pedals? They look a bargain for £169 for the 2 pedal set.

Mine will be here tomorrow. I won't be building my rig for another couple of weeks so I'm hoping to clamp it to my desk using some G clamps and blocks of wood and put it on the lowest torque it'll take just to see what it's like, make sure it's all good, etc.
 
Here's my current ghetto method. Metal chair against back of bed, box behind pedals.

I sort of need to move my PC or rotate it to the left so I can line everything up (monitor is slightly left) If I do that though, either cables don't reach or I would hit my knee on my PC. Might just move my monitor to the right instead but then it might block a screen I use for WFH which is next to it.

It should be interesting when my direct drive unit, wheel and load cell pedals arrive this week. Box can be changed for a different sized one, block of wood, metal or anything else.

(FYI and before anyone chimes in "oh, your PC is on the floor it's going to overhead and die" It's not, its been there years and runs nice and cool. Sits on a slab of wood off the carpet. It also gets hoovered out regulaly)

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One way trip to a dead arse that! I had one the same for when I was a kid and played ff7. I used to sit there for so long that when I stood up I'd hit the deck and would have to drag myself around the room
 
One way trip to a dead arse that! I had one the same for when I was a kid and played ff7. I used to sit there for so long that when I stood up I'd hit the deck and would have to drag myself around the room
haha, We had one as well, used to be friend/little brother seat, with the crappy joystick. Try playing way of the exploding fist when you cant feel your feet with a joystick that only goes left 50% of the time.
 
Well, my Mini turned up today. It's an absolutely solid bit of kit. There's no flex in anything and it's all made out of really premium materials. I hooked it up to my desk this evening and started out at a mere 5% and even that gave some nice details on rumble strips, etc. in Assetto Corsa. I then dialled it up to 30% which felt much better. Much more strength in the feedback, a lot more weight in the wheel, etc.

Then I tried 50%. I'd mapped throttle and brake to up and down on the analogue stick of my Series X controller and set the gearbox to automatic. A little ghetto but it worked just to one hand the wheel around a bit. I was struggling to turn the car using one hand. Then I hit a wall and it shook my desk...

I spent the weekend wondering if 10 (seen it's rated at 13 though) Nm would be enough. I'm a big, tall guy who lifts weights so didn't know whether I'd overpower it fairly quickly. I've never experienced torque like this on a road car and I've driven a 500+ bhp C63 AMG. Still another 5-6.5 Nm to go as well. Apart from headroom for clipping I can't imagine why anybody would want to do more than a few laps with more torque than this thing can provide. It would be borderline undrivable...
 
Well, my Mini turned up today. It's an absolutely solid bit of kit. There's no flex in anything and it's all made out of really premium materials. I hooked it up to my desk this evening and started out at a mere 5% and even that gave some nice details on rumble strips, etc. in Assetto Corsa. I then dialled it up to 30% which felt much better. Much more strength in the feedback, a lot more weight in the wheel, etc.

Then I tried 50%. I'd mapped throttle and brake to up and down on the analogue stick of my Series X controller and set the gearbox to automatic. A little ghetto but it worked just to one hand the wheel around a bit. I was struggling to turn the car using one hand. Then I hit a wall and it shook my desk...

I spent the weekend wondering if 10 (seen it's rated at 13 though) Nm would be enough. I'm a big, tall guy who lifts weights so didn't know whether I'd overpower it fairly quickly. I've never experienced torque like this on a road car and I've driven a 500+ bhp C63 AMG. Still another 5-6.5 Nm to go as well. Apart from headroom for clipping I can't imagine why anybody would want to do more than a few laps with more torque than this thing can provide. It would be borderline undrivable...
Nice. I probably have Assetto Corsa settings a bit wrong and some of it will be a combination of AC settings and base settings in the software. This is what I have set in AC

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Moza software I have it on 100% I read its best to let the base software do the work but not sure how true this is

8CPeOz6h.png.jpg

VtBJYJQh.png.jpg

at0eLDkh.png.jpg

Here's me on Dirt Rally 2

 
Nice. I probably have Assetto Corsa settings a bit wrong and some of it will be a combination of AC settings and base settings in the software. This is what I have set in AC

ZfOZRagh.png.jpg

Moza software I have it on 100% I read its best to let the base software do the work but not sure how true this is

8CPeOz6h.png.jpg

VtBJYJQh.png.jpg

at0eLDkh.png.jpg

Here's me on Dirt Rally 2


I didn't mess with the settings in game at all. I downloaded the SimPro software for the Mini and just played around with the strength in there to make sure the wheel worked, etc.

I've also heard it's best to set the FFB to 100% in the wheel software and then adjust in game so I'll be doing that.

I've not really had enough of a play around with the settings in SimPro yet. I haven't found anything like the FFB equalizer though. That looks pretty cool.

The R9 bundle with the CS wheel and SRP pedals looks really hard to beat for the money. Certainly a more compelling option for me than the CSL DD because I really hate that their stuff was out of stock unless you paid them more money for an 'express' bundle where it was in stock and ready to ship... I've heard lots of horror stories with their customer support, quality of the product, etc. too

I've placed quite a large order with Heusinkveld this morning. I was going back and forth between the VRS pedals and HE Sprints. Heusinkveld do bundle kits where if you buy the pedals you get 20% off the shifter and 10% off the handbrake. Given I want those things at a later date anyway I just decided to go all in. £866 plus the VAT :eek: You only live once, right?...

Edit: 22 minutes after placing the order they've emailed to say my order is being packed and will be here on Friday. The Dutch are an efficient people!
 
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Bought the Fanatec CSL pedals and I'm impressed with them. These are the newer set and they have a very solid feel to them. The brake pedal has a firm foam wedge insert as it's not a load cell. It felt ok, had a small amount of travel that had very little resistance and then it ramped up heavily. I've actually removed it now which is working well for me as it brings the resistance (or lack of) inline with the throttle.
 
The R9 bundle with the CS wheel and SRP pedals looks really hard to beat for the money. Certainly a more compelling option for me than the CSL DD because I really hate that their stuff was out of stock unless you paid them more money for an 'express' bundle where it was in stock and ready to ship... I've heard lots of horror stories with their customer support, quality of the product, etc. too

I've placed quite a large order with Heusinkveld this morning. I was going back and forth between the VRS pedals and HE Sprints. Heusinkveld do bundle kits where if you buy the pedals you get 20% off the shifter and 10% off the handbrake. Given I want those things at a later date anyway I just decided to go all in. £866 plus the VAT :eek: You only live once, right?...

Edit: 22 minutes after placing the order they've emailed to say my order is being packed and will be here on Friday. The Dutch are an efficient people!
Similar story to me, I was goingto wait for the CSL DD but then the more I read and waited, the more I decided I didnt want Fanatec gear. Specifically the standard QR system sounds dreadful.

£866 for 3 pedal sprints, shifter and handbrake? That's not bad. Wont you get hammered by import duties aswell though?
I did think about getting the Heusinkveld shifter, but its sequential only I believe and wanted H shifter. I ended up getting a 2nd hand TH8A but then after buying it realised it was being sold without the table mount, so had to get a mount from Thrustmaster. I've also ordered the ClixBeetle Pro TH8A mod which was reviewed by SRG here - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JuLTbi7OMBc

I'm loving rally time trials in BeamNG drive. Makes Dirt 2 seem easy! :D
 
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