Ugly IO.
Elaborate IO cover.
Elaborate IO cover.
Tag Mclaren.
- Thread starter ALXAndy
- Start date
OK that is done. Not the best, I could have calibrated the bit better (didn't go as deep as I wanted) but I will take it. Needs some file work, will crack that out later and get a pic.
Given the board does not have WIFI M2 I got this.
I just wanted a USB one with a proper antenna socket. I then ordered this.
So I can put a socket on the back of the unit.
Given the board does not have WIFI M2 I got this.
I just wanted a USB one with a proper antenna socket. I then ordered this.
So I can put a socket on the back of the unit.
Actually you can see it wasn't my fault. Both ends? are fine. The acrylic is clearly p1553d.
Either way? it is more than good enough. Will file it up and clean it later.
Either way? it is more than good enough. Will file it up and clean it later.
Looks really great but would be funny is there was a misprint
I doubt it would be funny with the amount of work put in to it and so don't shoot the messenger! Aren't there a few capitals missing as in TAG McLaren? Depends on what the display displayed.
That is how it shows. When I boot the AV32 it looks just like that.
I won't lose sleep over a capital L
OCUK have sent me 140mm fans LOL. Might be a bit big.
Soldato
Nah, you're just not trying hard enough! ;P
Ah, the joys of variable thickness material. You've got a few options:
1. Deck the entire surface before you start so that it's flat and you can then plunge a consistent depth. This may ruin the contrast you're trying to achieve between cut and uncut though.
2. Demand better starting material from the supplier - yeah, good luck with that!
3. If you have an indicator you can mount on the carriage, you can sweep to see variations in thickness. If you can then shim under the material so that it sits flat when it's held down, you'll get the effect you're trying to achieve.
4. You can also get this effect by clamping in one place - if you clamped in the middle but not the ends, it could lower the middle and raise the ends giving you that effect on un-wobbly material. Reverse that and it could be used to your advantage.
5. If your software is fancy enough, you can probe the surface and then compensate for the waviness...but you also need a probe and the controller to handle it.
6. You could just cut deeper. You may find that the difference - at least visually - between something cut at 0.3mm vs 0.2mm is a lot less than say 0.2mm and just skimming the surface.
7. You could just accept that you'll not notice it in situ and tell me to stop trying to over-complicate your life
Associate
My original DVD player showed the same Tag logo as this before going onto software version and disc information.
I won't lose sleep over a capital L
OCUK have sent me 140mm fans LOL. Might be a bit big.
What you have looks excellent and unless you come across someone else who has owned this equipment before then nobody will ever know
Associate
Reminds me of my systems I have manufactured & put in these build logsRight. Held up today. Before I run the machine.... I bought 100 of these.
I ordered an A3 sheet of 3mm matt black acrylic too. Oh, and 100ft of black braid. The orange is already on its way.
The HDMI cable is not long enough. That was my fault, I really should have had a plan and measured it properly before ordering. Lesson learned...
I also got this.
Remember when people did that? aye, me too /old. Sadly I could not find a 24 pin, so I will need to cut off the 4 pins in black and put it in next to it. However, it gave me an idea. 4 orange wires in the black part, and black in the orange. Should look dope. I *think* I have some orange molex connectors at my flat. I broke this down after the case got broken in transit.
So there may be one in there. IDK.
Right, off to play CNC, wish me luck !
Finished the IO cover and the power button.
IO needs more cleaning, traps things like you wouldn't believe.
I used Kwik JB. It sort of sets in 5 mins, but takes 24 hours to fully harden. Once it has I will put the front panel back on properly and then glue the power button onto the carrier there.
IO needs more cleaning, traps things like you wouldn't believe.
I used Kwik JB. It sort of sets in 5 mins, but takes 24 hours to fully harden. Once it has I will put the front panel back on properly and then glue the power button onto the carrier there.
I'm no doing it again lol. That was really fiddly and frustrating ! plus it was a one shot deal. It would destroy the blue bit trying to remove it. I'm more than happy with it tbh.
Associate
If anyone ever asks if it's the same as the original. I will always back you up
Right so last update for today. Tired now lol.
I first designed the floor panel. This is what the PSU and mobo will mount to, as well as the fan hub and so on.
I also finished the power button.
I wasn't going to put that brace bar back but I had to. Because it holds this up.
That will all be getting painted satin black, but obviously not until everything has all been test fitted and so on. Otherwise I will be chasing my tail every time I scratch it.
I first designed the floor panel. This is what the PSU and mobo will mount to, as well as the fan hub and so on.
I also finished the power button.
I wasn't going to put that brace bar back but I had to. Because it holds this up.
That will all be getting painted satin black, but obviously not until everything has all been test fitted and so on. Otherwise I will be chasing my tail every time I scratch it.
Associate
This is going to be really good when it's doneRight so last update for today. Tired now lol.
I first designed the floor panel. This is what the PSU and mobo will mount to, as well as the fan hub and so on.
I also finished the power button.
I wasn't going to put that brace bar back but I had to. Because it holds this up.
That will all be getting painted satin black, but obviously not until everything has all been test fitted and so on. Otherwise I will be chasing my tail every time I scratch it.
I hope so.
I'm going to avoid ethernet tbh. Just go with wifi.
Oh yeah. I also pinged all of the buttons earlier with a multimeter on the back of the fp board. They all seem to work fine. I now know where to solder the wires on too, so I can do that at a later date. Am hoping I can get the "screen" into that board tomorrow. Amazing the things I bought for the last project that were left over. Like the ATX pins I already had but forgot about oh well, more the merrier. I should also be able to play with the DVD drive tomorrow, as it should arrive then. What is concerning me a wee bit is the CNC lump that goes on it is machined out. The DVD drive I bought will be flat when closed, so I may need to machine a plate that it can stick to, and then stick to the front of the drive. Or, I will see how much clearance I get by removing the front of the drive (but obs not the tray front). That may get me over the line, but I am not adverse to more machining. The board tray will take about 2 hours, so that will be done when I come back. Need to leave on Thurs, have a lot to do at home.
The power button, I thought, would be a nightmare. Got really lucky on that.
Tell you what else is funny. When I designed the IO cover I counted the lines in the CD tray front cover. 13. "Hmm, should I jinx myself?". Seems I did. I carved 13 lines, then the OCUK order turned up and was wrong
I knew I should have gone 12......
I'm going to avoid ethernet tbh. Just go with wifi.
Oh yeah. I also pinged all of the buttons earlier with a multimeter on the back of the fp board. They all seem to work fine. I now know where to solder the wires on too, so I can do that at a later date. Am hoping I can get the "screen" into that board tomorrow. Amazing the things I bought for the last project that were left over. Like the ATX pins I already had but forgot about
oh well, more the merrier. I should also be able to play with the DVD drive tomorrow, as it should arrive then. What is concerning me a wee bit is the CNC lump that goes on it is machined out. The DVD drive I bought will be flat when closed, so I may need to machine a plate that it can stick to, and then stick to the front of the drive. Or, I will see how much clearance I get by removing the front of the drive (but obs not the tray front). That may get me over the line, but I am not adverse to more machining. The board tray will take about 2 hours, so that will be done when I come back. Need to leave on Thurs, have a lot to do at home.The power button, I thought, would be a nightmare. Got really lucky on that.
Tell you what else is funny. When I designed the IO cover I counted the lines in the CD tray front cover. 13. "Hmm, should I jinx myself?". Seems I did. I carved 13 lines, then the OCUK order turned up and was wrong
I knew I should have gone 12......
Associate
as long as you dont finish it on a Friday you should be okay
Added this to my watch list. Came up with a discount, £6.
Now I wonder if the remote sensor can be desoldered onto the original? Time will tell.
The HDMI socket came, and slots in perfectly. I really can't believe that, it is exactly the right size so no hacking needed. DVD is here too, and the orange braid. Will crack on in a bit. I also realised modern drives are nowhere near as deep as old ones, so I will machine the plate for the tray. Saves taking it apart and removing that.
Now I wonder if the remote sensor can be desoldered onto the original? Time will tell.
The HDMI socket came, and slots in perfectly. I really can't believe that, it is exactly the right size so no hacking needed. DVD is here too, and the orange braid. Will crack on in a bit. I also realised modern drives are nowhere near as deep as old ones, so I will machine the plate for the tray. Saves taking it apart and removing that.
What were the odds on that?
One of the screw holes even lined up
One of the screw holes even lined up
OK so yeah, the drive didn't fit the sled. Unexpected, and a pain. Machined out a floor and fitted it.
Yes, it is the shell of the player that is out of whack. Probably from the gorilla who manhandled it before. I then stuck the adapter I machined into the CNC tray cover and dropped it in. Note, it is not stuck on yet. That will come later.
It will need shims put around the edge to keep it from catching.
This arrived too.
Yes, it is the shell of the player that is out of whack. Probably from the gorilla who manhandled it before. I then stuck the adapter I machined into the CNC tray cover and dropped it in. Note, it is not stuck on yet. That will come later.
It will need shims put around the edge to keep it from catching.
This arrived too.