*** The Car Cleaning Thread ***
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The Kestrel is a sander by nature so if it's anything like a PC, it'll come with a backing plate that you essentially bin if you are going to use it on a car. The Kestrel kits online may be different though, so at least one of the plates you have will work as it's velcro faced, but perhaps not specifically intended to be used with polishing pads.
What you should do is take the plate and see how flexible it is. What you don't want is a really stiff backing plate with a DA, it just makes life more difficult and uncomfortable, especially on transitions from flat panels. Seeing as you'll be spending hours with this thing in your hand, you want it working its best. It's a small outlay for two plates that'll last a long time and are designed and manufactured for this application. Pad sizes vary from manufacturer as do backing plates, but like Clarkey said what you are looking for is a decent overhang of pad. It's important that this excess pad margin is sufficient to protect the paintwork should you slip or the pad grabs the paint...you don't want the edge of the backing plate hitting the car. If the plate does hit the paintwork, the softer edges of the plates I suggested are going to be more forgiving than a stiff plate.
I've suggested those specific plates and the pads because I know they're ideal for yourself, they're safe and give excellent results, I've used them myself as well... so I'm not going to suggest anything else but those. May sound like I'm being a knob but saving a few quid to use a less-than-ideal backing plate on your first polish would be a false economy if you are already paying for decent gear and you have a new Kestrel. If you decide to continue with the polishing lark, those plates will work with virtually any pad as you may choose a different pad manufacturer or design in the future.
edit - The plate that comes with the Kestrel may have been added by the vendor, it would be difficult for you to gauge how flexible it should be. It might be an idea to double check with whoever you purchase from that they will accept the plates back (should you decide to purchase) if they turn up and are pretty much the same as what came with the kit. Either Tim or Rich should have no problem with that, best to check though.
What you should do is take the plate and see how flexible it is. What you don't want is a really stiff backing plate with a DA, it just makes life more difficult and uncomfortable, especially on transitions from flat panels. Seeing as you'll be spending hours with this thing in your hand, you want it working its best. It's a small outlay for two plates that'll last a long time and are designed and manufactured for this application. Pad sizes vary from manufacturer as do backing plates, but like Clarkey said what you are looking for is a decent overhang of pad. It's important that this excess pad margin is sufficient to protect the paintwork should you slip or the pad grabs the paint...you don't want the edge of the backing plate hitting the car. If the plate does hit the paintwork, the softer edges of the plates I suggested are going to be more forgiving than a stiff plate.
I've suggested those specific plates and the pads because I know they're ideal for yourself, they're safe and give excellent results, I've used them myself as well... so I'm not going to suggest anything else but those. May sound like I'm being a knob but saving a few quid to use a less-than-ideal backing plate on your first polish would be a false economy if you are already paying for decent gear and you have a new Kestrel. If you decide to continue with the polishing lark, those plates will work with virtually any pad as you may choose a different pad manufacturer or design in the future.
edit - The plate that comes with the Kestrel may have been added by the vendor, it would be difficult for you to gauge how flexible it should be. It might be an idea to double check with whoever you purchase from that they will accept the plates back (should you decide to purchase) if they turn up and are pretty much the same as what came with the kit. Either Tim or Rich should have no problem with that, best to check though.
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I use Carters for pads, they often do special offers, my pads have stood very well with 2 years of abuse
http://www.cartersconsumables.co.uk/polishing-pads-heads-heads-accessories-c-94_105_162.html
http://www.cartersconsumables.co.uk/polishing-pads-heads-heads-accessories-c-94_105_162.html
Thats totally fine - I appreciate that. Just wanted to check as I didnt realise I already had some backing plates, thats all, and I didnt know whether your recommendation was based on me not having any plates, or based on you knowing the plates that would come with the DAS-6 would be unsuitable for use
What minefield.
SRP by hand gives you serious arm pain after a few panels and really doesn't give that much of an amazing effect even with all the fillers.
Tempted to try a DA and something very very light and safe (finishing/light polishing) pad and try something like the Valetpr0 Achilles prep.
But also tempted to let a pr0 look at my Teg as the paint isn't in great nick, and looks quite Matt on a number of panels
The metallic paint on my old Sunny was in far better nick. My pads seem quite dirty white after using SRP on the TEG anyway, and with the more Matt coloured panels I'm really unsure what can be deduced from that with and form of accuracy.
SRP by hand gives you serious arm pain after a few panels and really doesn't give that much of an amazing effect even with all the fillers.
Tempted to try a DA and something very very light and safe (finishing/light polishing) pad and try something like the Valetpr0 Achilles prep.
But also tempted to let a pr0 look at my Teg as the paint isn't in great nick, and looks quite Matt on a number of panels
The metallic paint on my old Sunny was in far better nick. My pads seem quite dirty white after using SRP on the TEG anyway, and with the more Matt coloured panels I'm really unsure what can be deduced from that with and form of accuracy.
That was done in all available daylight hours on the day before and even then I cuoldn't get all the tar off the paint It's not just the specs in the clearcoat but the overall finish of the paint, or lack of it.
Can someone spec me a basic kit to give my car a wash via 2 bucket method?
I was looking over cleanyourcar.com and was thinking..
2 wash mitts. Microfiber or sheepskin?
Shampoo. Whats recommended?
Is wax needed? I'm not big on cleaning my car but is it recommended I wax it? If so, wax or sealant? I'm guessing sealant would be easier applied
Drying towel. I'm guessing they are generally all the same, just get a big one.
Finally, grit guards. Are they really worth? Could i not just rub the wash mitt with my spare hand instead of on a £12 piece of plastic??
Advise me please!
I was looking over cleanyourcar.com and was thinking..
2 wash mitts. Microfiber or sheepskin?
Shampoo. Whats recommended?
Is wax needed? I'm not big on cleaning my car but is it recommended I wax it? If so, wax or sealant? I'm guessing sealant would be easier applied
Drying towel. I'm guessing they are generally all the same, just get a big one.
Finally, grit guards. Are they really worth? Could i not just rub the wash mitt with my spare hand instead of on a £12 piece of plastic??
Advise me please!
[TW]Fox;16125878 said:Yes it came from there, so I can hold off
Spoke to Tim, the 125mm (5") plate is not the same as the FlexiPad plate I suggested but he said it would do. Talked to Rich and he knows the Kestrel 125mm plate and he reckons you'll be fine with it, enough flex for a beginner and you can always get a posh one if you decide to carry on. He does bin all the 6" plates though, just put yours to one side and leave it.
You'll still need the 75mm backing plate if you decide to get spot pads. Hope that helps
But also tempted to let a pr0 look at my Teg as the paint isn't in great nick, and looks quite Matt on a number of panels
I'd have someone look at it. Honda paint is about as soft as it gets and if it's looking matt, it could be a clear coat issue, really hard to assess what the issue could be over the internet. Did you clay it, I can't see that mentioned?
Pads do get dirty sometimes even after claying and paint cleansers, though it shouldn't be excessive.
http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/seek-advice.htmlCan someone spec me a basic kit to give my car a wash via 2 bucket method?
...
Advise me please!
Read all the relevant sections here and see what products are recommended and wax/sealant differences etc. Should help you narrow it down and ask again
Grit guards only really work if you have a huge bucket, enough room to let the crap float to the bottom without being churned up again every time you stick your mitt in. If the grit can pass through the guard on it's way down, it can just as easily come up.
Cheers Fett,
I'l keep at it and try something different possibly with a DA (the vallet pr0 achilles mentioned earlier), r just hav another good go with some SRP. Gave it a good claying, although the clay from cleanyourcar is a few years old and doesn't take off as much tar etc as I would like.
Before polluting this thread anymore can you recommend anything else to get the small tar spots off, or just keep claying/use some fingernail?
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