*** The Car Cleaning Thread ***

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grudas said:
Drag your finger nail across it, if it catches then it'll be a pain to get out. If you can see primer then you'll need a smart repair or if it's light scratch that barely catches your finger nail then pop down to halfrouds and get a tub of g3 scratch remover and a microfiber cloth and with some elbow grease you'll get it out completely or hide it really well do it won't stand out.
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Thanks mate. Liquid vs paste?
 
grudas said:
Nice one! Always good to have that laying around :)
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A word of warning with the paste, it can be quite abrasive in a small area you might notice a "burn mark" type effect around where you used it on the scratch. If you've got that, do the same again with a wet microfibre and spread it further out in increasing strokes until it completely disappears, or get some "paint renovator" (the orange one) to sort it.
 
kindai said:
A word of warning with the paste, it can be quite abrasive in a small area you might notice a "burn mark" type effect around where you used it on the scratch. If you've got that, do the same again with a wet microfibre and spread it further out in increasing strokes until it completely disappears, or get some "paint renovator" (the orange one) to sort it.
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Does the liquid variety also have this issue? I couldn't see much of a difference when I was looking so went for the paste as it was cheaper. Their website doesn't seem to state much of a difference either.

Is this the stuff you mean: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Farecla-7165-500ml-Professional-Renovator/dp/B004RAY1L8.

Will you always get these burn marks? Can't see any on the area I worked on but I literally used a pea size amount.
 
Gigabit said:
Does the liquid variety also have this issue? I couldn't see much of a difference when I was looking so went for the paste as it was cheaper. Their website doesn't seem to state much of a difference either.

Is this the stuff you mean: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Farecla-7165-500ml-Professional-Renovator/dp/B004RAY1L8.

Will you always get these burn marks? Can't see any on the area I worked on but I literally used a pea size amount.
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It depends on your paint, how much pressure you used, how deep the scratch was and how good your eye is for spotting those sort of imperfections. I think on colors with a color shift or heavy pearlescent concent it shows up a lot more than solid color.
 
Gigabit said:
Ah thanks then mate, can't see anything so will just leave it I think. It was quite light. It's a Titanium paint so quite shiny.

Is the only way to prevent water spots, wiping/dabbing with a microfibre? Is there a faster way, I've heard a leaf blower?
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DI vessel,

Best thing. EVER.

https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/posts/31802555/

I washed my car yesterday in the blazing heat, not a single waterspot to see.
 
Gigabit said:
Thanks mate. How does this stuff work. Do I mix it with my snowfoam? Usually snowfoam and a rinse is enough to keep the car clean. So I guess I would rinse off with that stuff?
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It sits between your tap and your hosepipe/pressure washer, so the water goes out the tap, passes through the tank where all the stuff that causes spotting gets removed, then you use it as per normal. Tank itself initial investment is ~100 quid with 7 litres of resin, if you clean the car once a week it will last you about a year: http://www.raceglaze.co.uk/race-glaze/400-litre-0ppm-car-washing-filter/

Refils thereafter are about 30 quid a year: https://waterfedpole.com/tulsion-mb-115-virgin-mixed-bed-di-resin-10-litres.html

But considering how easy they make your life when it comes to washing, its the best car washing investment I ever made.
 
Cleaned and conditioned the steering wheel today using the recommended gliptone, seems to have worked well though I think it’s a bit hot today, had to cover the wheel with some towels so it doesn’t evaporate
 
dacads said:
Man only used it a few times :(

Whereas the clay bar I have is the opposite when it comes to breaking down
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The best way to keep it lasting ive found is to make sure you only use it on cool days with cold washes, and to keep it somewhere relatively cold, I imagine your shed builds up a lot of heat if its in the sunlight, which wont help.
 
kindai said:
The best way to keep it lasting ive found is to make sure you only use it on cool days with cold washes, and to keep it somewhere relatively cold, I imagine your shed builds up a lot of heat if its in the sunlight, which wont help.
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Yeah my fault for leaving it in the shed the fibers or whatever it's made of must have just died.

I think I'll stick with the remaining clay bar for now as claying is only something you need to do a couple of times a year anyway.
 
kindai said:
It sits between your tap and your hosepipe/pressure washer, so the water goes out the tap, passes through the tank where all the stuff that causes spotting gets removed, then you use it as per normal. Tank itself initial investment is ~100 quid with 7 litres of resin, if you clean the car once a week it will last you about a year: http://www.raceglaze.co.uk/race-glaze/400-litre-0ppm-car-washing-filter/

Refils thereafter are about 30 quid a year: https://waterfedpole.com/tulsion-mb-115-virgin-mixed-bed-di-resin-10-litres.html

But considering how easy they make your life when it comes to washing, its the best car washing investment I ever made.
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Thanks again mate.

And you can then just let the water evaporate normally can you?
 
Gigabit said:
Thanks again mate.

And you can then just let the water evaporate normally can you?
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Yup, obviously on scorching hot days best to wash the panel with your sponge then instantly power wash it off, one at a time, but no need to panic about buffing or patting it off.
 
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