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The GTX 980 Ti owners thread.

Superpatsy said:
Does anyone happen to have an idiot's guide to GPU overclocking? Never really tried it but keep seeing people getting massive OC's on these cards.
Click to expand...

I'm fairly sure I didn't do this properly, however:

- Download GPU-Z, MSI Afterburner, and a benchmark of sorts, I prefer Unigine Valley for simplicity.

- Open up Valley, set it to Extreme HD preset, launch it, press F9 once it loads, take a note of the score you get at the end.

- Open up GPU-Z, click the sensor tab, make sure your temperatures, etc, are fine. Take a note of the maximum boost clock you get (hovering over the red bar next to each item tells you the number in relation to it at a specific time, alternatively you can click the number next to "Core Clock" twice and it will note the maximum clock you have managed to reach.

- Open up MSI Afterburner, pop the power limit to the maximum assuming you have a good power supply, 750w+ is sufficient for the 130% power limit cards.

- Subtract your maximum core clock read in GPU-Z from 1450, and add that number to your core clock in Afterburner.

- Add 300 MHz to your memory clock, press the tick in Afterburner. (It's a huge jump but I believe most cards will manage it just fine)

- Load up Valley again, press F9, repeat, note down your score, and maximum clock in GPU-Z.

- Add increments of +10-20MHz to your core at a time, repeat the benchmark, note down score, etc. Once you hit 1500MHz, I'd advise stopping there if you don't care about extracting the absolute maximum for your card, some cards will manage 1550MHz+ but they won't be stable for long periods of gaming, and the 50MHz won't make much of a difference in the real world.

If your card doesn't manage 1500MHz without crashing, that's unfortunate, but dial it down until it gets stable for extended benchmarking.
 
FMTopfan said:
RanxZy where did you manage to get that SLI bridge from?
Click to expand...

Not mine, just showed the pic of what the finished article looks like as tbh my case is a mess! Have an old Corsair PSU with not a single modular cable. I had to look on skinflint just to find one place selling that MSI bridge, seems very rare in the UK but quite a few German retailers selling it.
 
Rowlii said:
I'm fairly sure I didn't do this properly, however:

- Download GPU-Z, MSI Afterburner, and a benchmark of sorts, I prefer Unigine Valley for simplicity.

- Open up Valley, set it to Extreme HD preset, launch it, press F9 once it loads, take a note of the score you get at the end.

- Open up GPU-Z, click the sensor tab, make sure your temperatures, etc, are fine. Take a note of the maximum boost clock you get (hovering over the red bar next to each item tells you the number in relation to it at a specific time, alternatively you can click the number next to "Core Clock" twice and it will note the maximum clock you have managed to reach.

- Open up MSI Afterburner, pop the power limit to the maximum assuming you have a good power supply, 750w+ is sufficient for the 130% power limit cards.

- Subtract your maximum core clock read in GPU-Z from 1450, and add that number to your core clock in Afterburner.

- Add 300 MHz to your memory clock, press the tick in Afterburner. (It's a huge jump but I believe most cards will manage it just fine)

- Load up Valley again, press F9, repeat, note down your score, and maximum clock in GPU-Z.

- Add increments of +10-20MHz to your core at a time, repeat the benchmark, note down score, etc. Once you hit 1500MHz, I'd advise stopping there if you don't care about extracting the absolute maximum for your card, some cards will manage 1550MHz+ but they won't be stable for long periods of gaming, and the 50MHz won't make much of a difference in the real world.

If your card doesn't manage 1500MHz without crashing, that's unfortunate, but dial it down until it gets stable for extended benchmarking.
Click to expand...

Thanks!

Have come across a wee problem though. For some reason, I don't appear to have the power limit slider any AB anymore. I remember it being there when I had crossfired 280x's.

Ignore the last part. Had to change the skin to get it back.
 
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Think I've got a duff GPU when it comes to overclocking! Struggling to get 1500MHz but I did notice that the power limit only goes to 109%.

Did manage to get a decent overclock though. Thanks again for the guide!
 
Superpatsy said:
Think I've got a duff GPU when it comes to overclocking! Struggling to get 1500MHz but I did notice that the power limit only goes to 109%.

Did manage to get a decent overclock though. Thanks again for the guide!
Click to expand...

Only a low percentage of Gpus gets to 1500 (which is 425 Mhz more than stock, not what anybody should expect). But most of people who do get there post their scores.
People who can actually keep those frequencies 24/7 are even less ;)

Besides that, you need a couple of days to find your stable overclock (just saying because you seem to be already done with it).
 
Your GPU is hardly duff - 1500MHz is very nice, especially if it's stable in games. If it's not stable, drop it down 20-30MHz and it should solve it.

I'd say 1500MHz is around an average (to high) overclock, especially when it comes to being stable under load, a lot of custom PCB cards seem to get around that.

I didn't really think about comparing it to stock - That's a 40%-ish upgrade in speeds which is very nice.

Superpatsy said:
but I did notice that the power limit only goes to 109%.
Click to expand...

That's odd, I think? 8+8 pins should go up to 130%, or maybe I just haven't done enough research.

My power usage barely goes above 100% as it is so I don't think there's a huge difference.
 
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I'll take your words for it! :D

It was stable in valley at 1480 so I knocked it down to 1470. Hopefully that'll mean it's stable all-round but only time will tell.

Does the power limit differ with each card?
 
Superpatsy said:
I'll take your words for it! :D

It was stable in valley at 1480 so I knocked it down to 1470. Hopefully that'll mean it's stable all-round but only time will tell.

Does the power limit differ with each card?
Click to expand...

Was about to say. Being a percentage, and not a set number, you can't really know how much you're allowed. I don't see your 109% being a problem, especially if you didn't touch the voltage.

If you have The Witcher 3, that's one of the meanest games for unstable overclocks.
 
razorpakk said:
Was about to say. Being a percentage, and not a set number, you can't really know how much you're allowed. I don't see your 109% being a problem, especially if you didn't touch the voltage.

If you have The Witcher 3, that's one of the meanest games for unstable overclocks.
Click to expand...

I'll give The Witcher 3 a go tomorrow. Not had a chance to test it properly since I got the OCing done.
 
Well, from what I understood during limited research, 100% = 250W, 109% (or 110%) is the max for 6 + 8 pin at 275W, the extra 2 pins take this up to 325W... But, I'm probably wrong. :p

As long as you've found a stable overclock is all that matters, squeezing a bit more out of your investment is always nice :)
 
The HoF looks amazing, I wish I would've waited for it because it would look perfect with the white build I wanted to do.

Might have to sell my G1 gaming and then buy it.
 
Rowlii said:
Well, from what I understood during limited research, 100% = 250W, 109% (or 110%) is the max for 6 + 8 pin at 275W, the extra 2 pins take this up to 325W... But, I'm probably wrong. :p

As long as you've found a stable overclock is all that matters, squeezing a bit more out of your investment is always nice :)
Click to expand...

Pcie connector = 75w
6-pin = 75w
8-pin = 150w

So a reference card = 300w, but bios limited to 275w at 109%
A custom card is rated to 375w, but again bios limited in most cases
 
Rowlii said:
The HoF looks amazing, I wish I would've waited for it because it would look perfect with the white build I wanted to do.

Might have to sell my G1 gaming and then buy it.
Click to expand...
The font is pretty lame, the metal finish near the fans makes it look cheap.

But it's the only white card and the Asic seems solid among every report. I think I'll try to mod somehow that front Hall of Fame thing designed by a 5 years old.
 
I wanted my build to look something along the lines of this (at least on the inside):

qHkqF8N.png

I think the HoF would suit the black and white quite well, better than the G1 Gaming at least. I'm not sure if I'll be able to exchange it though, or whether I want to go through the hassle of selling and rebuying.
 
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