I've left it at the default. All it does (I think) is alter the number of gear changes you have to do at changes of incline. It doesn't make it easier in the amount of effort (power) needed to go at a certain speed. Setting it low does seem to let you keep the power on more consistently though as you don't find yourself in the wrong gear as much.
Kindof...
It 'reduces the amount of incline feel' or something, more accurately the changes in incline are dampened, so at 50% any slopes of 8% will feel more like 4%. It doesn't make them easier, just means you progress up them 'slower' (on screen) for the same gear ratio (it feels easier) as the effort at that ratio is reduced. You have to push bigger gears for more torque and higher power.
Think of it more like changing gear ratio and how it effects your riding on terrains - so you have more lower gears at low difficulty setting, so climbs 'impact you less', so you find them easier to maintain cadence and not run out of gears. But you're still outputting the same power, so your progress is the same up them for the same efforts, you're just in higher gears with more lower options.
For me riding TTT's I have it around 20-30%. I want lots of gear options there, without needing to grind/stand too much. So I have to surge/push less to maintain speed when I reach any inclines. When I'm racing I like it higher, around 60-70% as I'm a punchy rider and my kick and surges up short ramps are some of my main strengths. With a lower difficulty slider they're a little 'dampened' so I lose one of my main tactical advantages...
The way I look at it, it effectively changes your cassette. So, if previously you hit a 10% hill and it was crazy hard and you're going 7mph... with an easier setting, it's a little easier, but your going 4mph. To go 7mph you'd have to change up a little to get it to the same difficulty.
In other news, unlocked the Tron bike yesterday
Pretty much it, although it's called 'difficulty' its more accurately a 'hill simulation amount'. Low settings you're running a compact and wide range cassette with a 32T. High setting you're riding a big gear and low range cassette like a 25T.
Congrats on the Tron! I just ride mine all the time still. Just 'easier' to always be riding one of the top 3-5 frames and wheels regardless of course...
It's only recently with the disc wheels and the new DT ones that the S5 & Venge have been more aero than the Tron on flat courses.
just had my kickr core replaced was making a weird clunking noise when I put the power down. They said I needed to lube the paws on the hub but it didn’t help.
Good work getting it sorted, unsure of the exact mechanicals of the KICKR but likely flywheel/magnet related if it's a physical noise.
Who went down the route of buying a cheap road bike to use on thier trainer, and how much did you have to spend?
I'm using my 'old' bike, a £900 Giant Defy 1 (2015). Probably worth about £2000 now! But for me after a couple of years commuting it had 'paid it itself'.
I would happy buy an old frame/bike to use on a turbo. But I would also likely expect to upgrade components to 10/11 speed on it - very expensive at the moment.
might be worth seeing if you can find some snapped carbon that maybe salvageable for some indoor riding!
Probably not the best for a frame with arguably more torque being put though it... But then easy to find a cheap new chinese carbon frame - that would be recommended. Doesn't cause too much of a problem if it rides like a pig and won't kill you if the fork snaps off while Zwifting!
But aluminum is king for a trainer bike. I'd always recommend that over carbon. Some of the Halfords/PlanetX/Ribble/Decathlon well known brands, good frames but not the lightest. Shop by the groupset on it, not the wheels or frame.
@TallPaul_S Do you have any HR sensor that uses bluetooth as you may run out of bluetooth connections on an apple tv as the remote takes one and depending on the trainer that may take one or two connections. I know someone who has a wahoo kickr core like me and they couldnt use their HR monitor on bluetooth. I just used my usual bike it takes less than a minute to swap them over after it's been done a few times, it helps as well on the trainer if i want to adjust my saddle fit as the bike is stable.
Remote works alongside BT from HR & Trainer to AppleTV/iPads.
The problem most people hit is their trainer not embedding cadence data into the power stream - or wanting to use an external cadence sensor. Or advanced riders needing to run a second power source for race data verification - but most record seperate streams then combine the data when needed. Just a bit of an extra faff. Also good for testing and calibrating trainers (I still dual record a bunch of my rides after trainer issues, just don't combine the data streams to compare unless I have need to).
Anyone doing Zwift Academy this year? I've done the baseline group ride, all the workouts, two recovery rides and only have the finish line ride to go however its showing up that I have only done 2 of 4 group rides.
Weird, hadn't heard of that issue so can't advise sorry. A bunch of friends are doing it - many use it this time of year to increase performances as they switch from outdoors back to indoors. Not heard of any issues.
Main change this year was 1 workout per week, I actually registered and thought it would give me good volume to get 1 workout alongside the TTT and races I'm regularly doing but not had the time to even do 1! Just always seem to find myself racing... Joint captain of a TTT team and now have ended up captain in a ZRL team for this season. Any C and/or good D riders wanting a team get yourself into 3R and come my way (R3R WASP)! TTT Prologue last night saw 2 of my riders upgraded to B already... Typical - I told them to take it easy and watch their numbers!
