The MSI Neo2 Platinum Owners Help Thread
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Soldato
I too was a bit stumped as to why I needed to set the AGP to 67 but you do.
It allows the system to lock in at 67 while at 66, its not locked apparently?
It does this on all my NF3 Motherboards, but I dont know why TBH!!!
( The SATA issue is the same... 2 of the SATA ports are locked, but the other 2 are not. This is also true on my other NF3 Boards as well... Again, I dont know why as such, but I do know that SATA 1+2 and 3+4 are controled by totally different ChipSets, so it may be because nVIDIA are doingthis as some kind of deliberate thing, I just dont know? )
This means, that when you try to clock the system, the unlocked SATA ports are also overclocked, the locked ones are not.
Plenty of info about locked and unlocked stuff, so I will bother going into it here.
But thats basically it... It was some way through loading windows, and it hung there then?... I assumed that when you said it hung, that it hung at the POST screen not half way through loading Windows.... This is where it falls over due to the overclocked SATA ports.
It allows the system to lock in at 67 while at 66, its not locked apparently?
It does this on all my NF3 Motherboards, but I dont know why TBH!!!
( The SATA issue is the same... 2 of the SATA ports are locked, but the other 2 are not. This is also true on my other NF3 Boards as well... Again, I dont know why as such, but I do know that SATA 1+2 and 3+4 are controled by totally different ChipSets, so it may be because nVIDIA are doingthis as some kind of deliberate thing, I just dont know? )
This means, that when you try to clock the system, the unlocked SATA ports are also overclocked, the locked ones are not.
Plenty of info about locked and unlocked stuff, so I will bother going into it here.
But thats basically it... It was some way through loading windows, and it hung there then?... I assumed that when you said it hung, that it hung at the POST screen not half way through loading Windows.... This is where it falls over due to the overclocked SATA ports.
yeah, i can get it to boot at 2.2ghz to windows and do basic things fine, but its a touch unstable.
the prime torture using large ffts fails within a minute, 3dmark fails on the 3rd or so test too. it will either just restart. (prime just errors)
so need to tweak addional setting to get it to work properly.
could be that my chip isnt a good clocker so needs additonal volts? or maybe the ram need looser timings.
if i step down the cpu multiplier i can get faster FSBs but not clock the chip as much?
i may need to follow that guide in overclocking about ocing A64s and step up the fsb gradually to find the max settings etc.
the prime torture using large ffts fails within a minute, 3dmark fails on the 3rd or so test too. it will either just restart. (prime just errors)
so need to tweak addional setting to get it to work properly.
could be that my chip isnt a good clocker so needs additonal volts? or maybe the ram need looser timings.
if i step down the cpu multiplier i can get faster FSBs but not clock the chip as much?
i may need to follow that guide in overclocking about ocing A64s and step up the fsb gradually to find the max settings etc.
Soldato
The winchester is known to be a good clocker. You should get a good 2.5Ghz without too much problems.
Obviously you are, so I recon first port of call, is to up the Volts of the CPU, just by a small ammount for now, and yes, slacken off the RAM timings. Have them set to stock, not upped or downed, but stock... You should be perfectly happy getting 220FSB with that CPU and RAM, so if you cant get it stable with the RAM at stock, and the CPU vots upped by just one notch, then either you do have a seriously bad CPU, or its somethign else, and to be honest, 99% of the time, if somethign is wrong with the CPU then it simply wont work, but as its fine at stock, I think we can assume that the CPU is ok. But it WILL clock to 220FSB, there is no excuse for it not to!
Try this:-
Clear the BIOS, use the Jumper, then go into the BIOS and just make sure that the CPU and RAM are stock, then up the volts on the CPU to 1.5... The RAM will be fine on AUTO, but if you do want to, then try to force it to max out at 200 or even knock it back to 166. With your RAM, you should be fine over 200FSB, but we have to sort somethign out here dont we? cos somethign is obviously missing.
Obviously you are, so I recon first port of call, is to up the Volts of the CPU, just by a small ammount for now, and yes, slacken off the RAM timings. Have them set to stock, not upped or downed, but stock... You should be perfectly happy getting 220FSB with that CPU and RAM, so if you cant get it stable with the RAM at stock, and the CPU vots upped by just one notch, then either you do have a seriously bad CPU, or its somethign else, and to be honest, 99% of the time, if somethign is wrong with the CPU then it simply wont work, but as its fine at stock, I think we can assume that the CPU is ok. But it WILL clock to 220FSB, there is no excuse for it not to!
Try this:-
Clear the BIOS, use the Jumper, then go into the BIOS and just make sure that the CPU and RAM are stock, then up the volts on the CPU to 1.5... The RAM will be fine on AUTO, but if you do want to, then try to force it to max out at 200 or even knock it back to 166. With your RAM, you should be fine over 200FSB, but we have to sort somethign out here dont we? cos somethign is obviously missing.
Associate
- Joined
- 5 May 2004
- Posts
- 2,354
hi guys well i had my joy with my neo 2 and now selling it new mobo has come but i am having a prob with this 1t and 2 t thing maybe one of you old neo guys can help me out here
http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?p=6083758#post6083758
http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?p=6083758#post6083758
MEMORY
im thinking of putting OcUK Value 2GB (2x1GB) PC3200 184pin DDR Memory Dual Channel Kit (MY-006-OK) as opposed to the 2 GB Geil kit in as its 20 quid cheaper into my Neo2 Platinum setup.
anyone got any input to this.
i am not overclocking at all, has anyone experienced problems with the OCUK memory?
im thinking of putting OcUK Value 2GB (2x1GB) PC3200 184pin DDR Memory Dual Channel Kit (MY-006-OK) as opposed to the 2 GB Geil kit in as its 20 quid cheaper into my Neo2 Platinum setup.
anyone got any input to this.
i am not overclocking at all, has anyone experienced problems with the OCUK memory?
Something is royally ****ed 
I tried setting things to stock, upping the volts slightly and increasing the FSB to 220 and it beeped at me and stopped working... haha. Wouldn't even boot the bios.
Cleared the cmos and got it working again.
Feeling less confident about overclocking now though
Found the BIOS version though: v1.9
I tried setting things to stock, upping the volts slightly and increasing the FSB to 220 and it beeped at me and stopped working... haha. Wouldn't even boot the bios.
Cleared the cmos and got it working again.
Feeling less confident about overclocking now though
Found the BIOS version though: v1.9
Soldato
ROSSY - MEMORY
To be honest mate, I would go and spend the extra few notes and get good RAM.
I am not saying its bad ram... No way, its probably great, but OCZ has proven itself to me as great ram, while unknown brands have also proven to me, to be often dangerous, and at best its has a short life span.
To be honest mate, I would go and spend the extra few notes and get good RAM.
I am not saying its bad ram... No way, its probably great, but OCZ has proven itself to me as great ram, while unknown brands have also proven to me, to be often dangerous, and at best its has a short life span.
Does anyone with this board "MSI Neo2 K8N Platinum" use a "Maxtor DiamondMax Plus 10 NCQ 300GB 6V300F0 SATA-II 16MB" ?
I've seen a few mentions of people having problems with them working together, Somat to do more with the SATA Controler i think, just wanted to see if anyone here can confirm this ?
thx in advance
(placed this in the hard drives section also, for maximum coverage)
I've seen a few mentions of people having problems with them working together, Somat to do more with the SATA Controler i think, just wanted to see if anyone here can confirm this ?
thx in advance
(placed this in the hard drives section also, for maximum coverage)
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Associate
RooSe - Some suggestions.....
Try that hard disk on SATA 3 and 4 as these are locked.
SATA 1 and 2 get overclocked with the system bus.
If you are not overclocking, try both sets of SATA connectors as I believe they are made by two different manufacturers.
Try that hard disk on SATA 3 and 4 as these are locked.
SATA 1 and 2 get overclocked with the system bus.
If you are not overclocking, try both sets of SATA connectors as I believe they are made by two different manufacturers.
Soldato
MAllen said:
Bingo!
As with ( it seems ) all NForce Boards that have dual SATA controlers...
If the SATA connections are nice and easy to use, then those are the ones you should NOT use.
If they are in a really stupid place, make things hard to get at, and are basically in a really thick place, then those are the ones you want to use!!!
I have a new Nforce boards and this is the general way about it.
The stupidly situated SATA prots are locked and the nicely positioned ones are not???
Associate
IMHO (i.e. not based on fact...) - I would assume that the initial nVidia layout of the circuit board was done assuming everything would run at stock. It would have then been laid out with a single SATA controller and a single Ethernet controller.
Then the guys who manufacture the board added their own choice of secondary components. The second SATA controller would have been positioned to make the traces efficient. Possibly attached to the locked PCI bus? And a different chip then gets used for cost reasons.
I expect this is also why the nForce board with two NICs are also from different brands. Similar with the audio chip changing between manufacturers.
Blame the users who want things "cheap".
I prefer the layout of the board to be electrically efficient as location of sockets doesn't really matter much. PCs are designed to be hidden inside boxes. It is just us weird tweakers who insist on being able to see everything. At least SATA is nice thin cables which don't exactly get in the way.
Also note that it's only us weirdo overclockers who get effected by the "overclocked" SATA 1 & 2. So we are in a small minority of users of this product. So it wouldn't surprise me is we are low in the thoughts of the board designers.
) - I would assume that the initial nVidia layout of the circuit board was done assuming everything would run at stock. It would have then been laid out with a single SATA controller and a single Ethernet controller.Then the guys who manufacture the board added their own choice of secondary components. The second SATA controller would have been positioned to make the traces efficient. Possibly attached to the locked PCI bus? And a different chip then gets used for cost reasons.
I expect this is also why the nForce board with two NICs are also from different brands. Similar with the audio chip changing between manufacturers.
Blame the users who want things "cheap".
I prefer the layout of the board to be electrically efficient as location of sockets doesn't really matter much. PCs are designed to be hidden inside boxes. It is just us weird tweakers who insist on being able to see everything.
At least SATA is nice thin cables which don't exactly get in the way.Also note that it's only us weirdo overclockers who get effected by the "overclocked" SATA 1 & 2. So we are in a small minority of users of this product. So it wouldn't surprise me is we are low in the thoughts of the board designers.
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Soldato
Yeah, I have to agree with you on that, except the last point about us overclockers being low in the thoughts...
Lets face it, there are boards out there that dont clcok ,and there are boards out there that do.
Boards such as NForce based boards are designed purely for the overclocker, and these are not the kind of boards that you will find in a ready built PC... Or not that I have ever seen any myself though to be fair... They may exist, but usually ready built PCs are crappy SIS / PCChips based most of the time... I honestly cannot think of a single ready-built PC thats based on the MSI Neo2 or any DFI for that matter.
So, with this in mind, and considering the price of the MSI Neo2, saying that users wants things cheap is a bit wrong dont you think? - I mean, the MSI Neo2 is still close to £90 and thats certainly no cheap board.
My thoughts anyway.
Lets face it, there are boards out there that dont clcok ,and there are boards out there that do.
Boards such as NForce based boards are designed purely for the overclocker, and these are not the kind of boards that you will find in a ready built PC... Or not that I have ever seen any myself though to be fair... They may exist, but usually ready built PCs are crappy SIS / PCChips based most of the time... I honestly cannot think of a single ready-built PC thats based on the MSI Neo2 or any DFI for that matter.
So, with this in mind, and considering the price of the MSI Neo2, saying that users wants things cheap is a bit wrong dont you think? - I mean, the MSI Neo2 is still close to £90 and thats certainly no cheap board.
My thoughts anyway.
Soldato
- Joined
- 5 Nov 2004
- Posts
- 2,546
FatRakoon said:
Since the Nforce2 ultra series chipset Nvidia have got a reputation for being good to overclock. However, I have to disagree with your view on SIS chipsets, they are infact pretty good but, manufacturers tend to use them on their cheaper boards. Your right about PC Chips they are cheap and nasty boards.
Cheers lads, even though we took a bit of a side route some where along the line
Not actualy got the HDD yet, it's somat that Santa will be dropping, nice and easy down the chimney.
problem is with Maxtor max 10 drives and the Sata control, I'm aware of the locked sata connector and ye overclocking is a must
Decided not to take the risk of having any compatiblity problems and go Western Digital instead, idealy was looking for 300/16mb/sata11 hence Maxtormax 10,
but WD is going to have to be 250/16mb/ sata11 or 300/8mb/sata
or 320/8mb/sata ?
choices choices
cheers for the help lads, top site this btw
Not actualy got the HDD yet, it's somat that Santa will be dropping, nice and easy down the chimney.
problem is with Maxtor max 10 drives and the Sata control, I'm aware of the locked sata connector and ye overclocking is a must
Decided not to take the risk of having any compatiblity problems and go Western Digital instead, idealy was looking for 300/16mb/sata11 hence Maxtormax 10,
but WD is going to have to be 250/16mb/ sata11 or 300/8mb/sata
or 320/8mb/sata ?
choices choices
cheers for the help lads, top site this btw
Associate
We are techs, not map readers. And if a route can be found that goes via a pub and a chat... then expect detours.RooSe said:Cheers lads, even though we took a bit of a side route some where along the line
There are many knowledgeable people on this forum. OCUK must be happy that so much support is given away for free on their behalf. LOL. We are just a bunch of hard core tech addicts trying to spread our addiction. Beware - overclocking is worse than crack.RooSe said:cheers for the help lads, top site this btw
Soldato
RooSe said:
In my humble and honest opinion, I would rather poke my eyes out with a stick than trust WD Drives.
on 2 of my PCs I have clocked the Board, with SATA Drives in the wrong port, the first time was a WD + Maxtor, the second time, was a WD and a SEAGATE ( I did put maxtor twice ), and on both times, the WD died and the other lived.
I have an IDE Card that has failed and simply plugging WD dRives to it will kill them ( got 2x40GB, 1x80GB and 1x120GB to prove that ) and yet Seagate or Maxtor survive it.
Never again will I use WD drives.
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Associate
I would second FatRakoon's opinion of WD Drives. I also get to see these out on customer PCs and have a larger fail rate with WD than any other manufacturer. I have even seen a WD drive fail within 3 days of installation!!
Personally I stick with Hitachi (IBM), Samsung and Segate.
Personally I stick with Hitachi (IBM), Samsung and Segate.
Soldato
The latest IBM ( Hitachi ) Drives for myself are an unknown.
I say this because some time ago I bought an IBM DeskSta, it was 20GB and back then the 20GB was a beast and it wasnt cheap.
It dies after a short while, but if I reformat it, it perfectly fine again???
It kept doing this for a few weeks, and I got fed up, I sent it back to the place I got it ( I forget where? ) and they said that it was fine... I had toaccept their assessment of it because it was... For a short while.
Anyway, I then got in touch with IBM, who gave me some software that would test the drive, and then give me an RMA number, but of course the software would run some tests, find it was ok, and would not give me the RMA number... IBM then told me to do something and it will force an RMA number and this I could then send the drive back to IBM with...
Cutting a very long one short, I sent the Drive back to IBM, who in turn sent me the drive back saying that it was fine, but thats just it I told them... Its perfect until a few days or weeks, but then it just forgets whats on the drive???
Anyway, I never did cure it, and just after that, IBM accepted that their Drives were seriously flawed, the name calling went on and the drives were called DEATH-STARS instead of DeskStars and now Hitachi make their Drives and most people say that they are making some perfect drives for IBM, but I still have that paranoia thing with them.
Meanwhile, in the Seagate side of the field, I got a 10GB thats been used for several years, and a few years ago, I dropped it out of my pocket on my bike at about 55-60 mph and it bounced down the road... I picked it up took it home, and it lived.
Dotn get me wrong here, when formatting it with DOS ( Due to massive corruption ) it went fine until about 54%, so I just fdisked it to 50% and its been just fine ever since and its now the wife's C: and has been for maybe 3 years now... You just dont get quality like that in a pathetic WD Drive.
All said and done, I do have one WD drive, its a raptor and I am only using that cos it was given to me, and just in case you wanted to know, its actually slower than an 80GB Seagate SATA drive, so what the hell does that say?
I think I will go for an IBM for my next Drive, but I will use it in one of the kids PCs just in case... Paranoia rules!
I say this because some time ago I bought an IBM DeskSta, it was 20GB and back then the 20GB was a beast and it wasnt cheap.
It dies after a short while, but if I reformat it, it perfectly fine again???
It kept doing this for a few weeks, and I got fed up, I sent it back to the place I got it ( I forget where? ) and they said that it was fine... I had toaccept their assessment of it because it was... For a short while.
Anyway, I then got in touch with IBM, who gave me some software that would test the drive, and then give me an RMA number, but of course the software would run some tests, find it was ok, and would not give me the RMA number... IBM then told me to do something and it will force an RMA number and this I could then send the drive back to IBM with...
Cutting a very long one short, I sent the Drive back to IBM, who in turn sent me the drive back saying that it was fine, but thats just it I told them... Its perfect until a few days or weeks, but then it just forgets whats on the drive???
Anyway, I never did cure it, and just after that, IBM accepted that their Drives were seriously flawed, the name calling went on and the drives were called DEATH-STARS instead of DeskStars and now Hitachi make their Drives and most people say that they are making some perfect drives for IBM, but I still have that paranoia thing with them.
Meanwhile, in the Seagate side of the field, I got a 10GB thats been used for several years, and a few years ago, I dropped it out of my pocket on my bike at about 55-60 mph and it bounced down the road... I picked it up took it home, and it lived.
Dotn get me wrong here, when formatting it with DOS ( Due to massive corruption ) it went fine until about 54%, so I just fdisked it to 50% and its been just fine ever since and its now the wife's C: and has been for maybe 3 years now... You just dont get quality like that in a pathetic WD Drive.
All said and done, I do have one WD drive, its a raptor and I am only using that cos it was given to me, and just in case you wanted to know, its actually slower than an 80GB Seagate SATA drive, so what the hell does that say?
I think I will go for an IBM for my next Drive, but I will use it in one of the kids PCs just in case... Paranoia rules!