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*** The Official Alder Lake owners thread ***

Adaptive is the way to use these CPUs with TVB and V/F curve points set correctly.

Tweaked my V/F a little but think I've lucked out on the balance I have atm with Asus AI doing some of the lifting and a few manual settings thrown in (5.4/5.5 boost on a few cores which uses 1.42v, 5.2 allcore AVX which uses 1.26v). Thankfully seems solid.
 
Ah, it’s only possible on ASUS boards? Think I’ll stick with fixed voltage unless it leads to accelerated degradation.

No all boards have that feature set, as its been that way since Comet Lake, Alderlake just builds upon that.

You'll be hard pushed to degradate these CPU's with in normal voltage limits.
 
No all boards have that feature set, as its been that way since Comet Lake, Alderlake just builds upon that.

Do you have any proof "fixed voltage unless it leads to accelerated degradation" on these CPU's?

No option to adjust the TVB points on my MSI board.

I wasn't saying it did lead to degredation, it was more a question of whether it will. If not, I'd rather just use a fixed voltage instead of faffing about as the power usage at idle is barely any different.
 
No option to adjust the TVB points on my MSI board.

I wasn't saying it did lead to degredation, it was more a question of whether it will. If not, I'd rather just use a fixed voltage instead of faffing about as the power usage at idle is barely any different.

It does, as @Robert896r1 has written about it on here.

Here is another example:

 
Well I think my LAN issues are fixed.
From disconnecting everyday I have been stable for 3.
If this remains the case the fix was downloading Install_PCIE_Win11_11.4.1201.2021_01182022.exe direct from Realtek instead of using mb_driver_542_10.050.0511.2021.exe from Gigabytes site.

Why this worked I have no clue as Gigabytes driver clearly works for everyone else.
Fingers crossed.
 
Personally I'd stick to the Realtek driver anyway and I might just do just that and install it as that's what I used to do on Z190 too!

Good thing it's sorted though.
 
Recently noticed by temps when idle or normaly using the PC are lower than when I first built the system, rather impressed. I guess its a mix of the paste settling in fully now, and a couple of rpm tweaks I did in the BIOS for the fan curves. You can see the rpms in the screen below. I'm basically at room temp now with an ultra quiet system :D

HWINFO_Temps.jpg
 
@mrk you can probably bring the vcore down further if you're at stock clocks. Maybe a tweak for the summer months.

Mine was spiking up to 1.38v on auto voltage. I've now got it setup for 5.2ghz on 1 core, 5.1ghz on another and 5ghz on the rest at 1.2v.
 
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What would be the ideal way to go about it? I don't want to touch any of the core speeds etc, just undervolt if possible as my 3080 Ti is undervolted too so could do same to the CPU. Although as you can see there the vcore is at 0.4v when idle/normal usage anyway hence the low temps so maybe auto is doing what it needs to just ramping up when demand comes in from a game/app.
 
There are a couple of videos further up, however, if you just want stock clockspeeds then I would start with a -0.050 offset on the vcore. If that works, keep pushing it until you see a performance drop off or instability.

10-15c difference for me when gaming compared to leaving it at auto voltage + better performance with the cores boosting .2ghz higher.
 
Recently noticed by temps when idle or normaly using the PC are lower than when I first built the system, rather impressed. I guess its a mix of the paste settling in fully now, and a couple of rpm tweaks I did in the BIOS for the fan curves. You can see the rpms in the screen below. I'm basically at room temp now with an ultra quiet system :D

HWINFO_Temps.jpg

Until you fire up a game and the 3080ti FE screams to life :D

YGwxfvm.png

Nice having a quiet/silent system at idle/non GPU workloads though, ideal for media/work.

My 3090 gets audible when running new games at 4k, though is still bearable (though am using headphones).
 
When you +/- offset you're moving the entire v/f of the chip. V/F tuning is a completely different thing than lowering vcore so you idle and run cooler at a given frequency.

Instead of messing with offsets, I would use something like LLC4 on Asus, Mode 4 on MSI and then start lowering your vcore by 10mv at a time and run through stability tests to make sure it's stable. You'll end up with a cool running system that's also stable.
 
Hmm I think for now I will leave the CPU well alone, I've got the option if/when needed though it seems so that's good. I have everything set up super stable and running well so want to keep it that way as long as possible I think!
 
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