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***The Official E4300 Overclocking Thread***

Coretemp 0.94 and TAT.

At the moment, mid-orthos, Coretemp is reading 52c and TAT 62c.

I've read about the issues with temps, but is that over or under reading?

EDIT: Asus Probe reads 67c!
 
Just done a 6 hour orthos to test this OC.

I'm now at 1.525v, orthos crashed after 25 mins at 1.5v. How do I work out what that voltage is after vdroop on an Asus P5B? Is the CPU-Z reported voltage an accurate one?

 
does anyone know why my vcore while idle is 1.2v and then shoots up to 1.44 while running Orthos?

I have manually set vcore to 1.375 in BIOS I thought that would mean it stays at that voltage..?

cheers

Ferret
 
WJA96 said:
You may also have to separately turn off C1E which is like Speedstep, but different.
Click to expand...
Bios options. Just a thought, does it also depend on the driver? I know there is a separate driver for cool 'n' quiet on AMD 64 chips as well as a normal driver.
 
both speed stepping and C1E are disabled in the bios, I've just changed my vcore voltage 1.35 and it still hasnt changed in cpuz,

it doesn't seem to matter what i change the vcore to it remains at 1.2 idle and 1.4 loaded..

sorry I don't know about the driver, i didn't think the cpu needed a driver?

any ideas please?
 
what is cpu host frequency in the bios i dont see that mentioned anywhere in the guide.Very new to intel platform ive read up still confused so i leave the 9x multi then what enter say 333 in the cpu host frequency?
 
Help.
P5N-E-SLI with 0505 BIOS running 4300 and OCZ DDR800
UNLINKED FSB and Memory, latter fixed at 800
Best I can get is 2.25GHz (250FSB, 1000QSB) Tried lots of different FSBs above 250 - no luck.

Increasing vCore (1.5V) doesn't affect the overclock.
Max CPU temp is 34C which sounds very low to me. Makes me wonder if the Tuniq Tower is seated properly. Looks OK.

Cheers
--
Grumps
 
Try overclocking 1 part at a time. The mother board is the most fundamental piece to stability so u should start there.

Actually I would start at defaults and run memtest to check memory stability.

Then drop the memory and speed of the cpu well below their rated speeds, and try overclocking the FSB / motherboard speed. Then report back if its stable. Even my nforce4 can do 300fsb without batting an eyelid. If your mobo doesnt do it try increasing the north bridge voltage to 1.5v ( I think this is the next notch up from default, guessing though as I never played with a p5n-e).
 
grumpycrab said:
Help.
P5N-E-SLI with 0505 BIOS running 4300 and OCZ DDR800
UNLINKED FSB and Memory, latter fixed at 800
Best I can get is 2.25GHz (250FSB, 1000QSB) Tried lots of different FSBs above 250 - no luck.

Increasing vCore (1.5V) doesn't affect the overclock.
Max CPU temp is 34C which sounds very low to me. Makes me wonder if the Tuniq Tower is seated properly. Looks OK.

Cheers
--
Grumps
Click to expand...

There's definitely something odd there.

Things I would be looking at are; C1E/Speedstep: are they turned off? Spread Spectrum Options all off?

If you've recently reset the CMOS, then check all the settings haven't gone back to default.

If everything is OK in the BIOS, then just lump in at something like 1450 and see if that gets you anywhere.
 
Also reset the battery and CMOS jumper for 10 minutes, not just for a few seconds to drain the mobo and give your northbridge some active cooling!

1.) Take PSU mains out
2.) Take battery out
3.) Switch CMOS jumper
4.) Wait 10 minutes
5.) Switch CMOS back
6.) Put battery back in
7.) Put PSU mains back in

Both these factors were vital after changing my BIOS and was the main reason I wasn't stable over anything above 2GHz. I'm now happily at 3.2GHz; both Orthos, OCCT & Memtest stable using black memory slots. :)

After doing this, i'm confident you'll have a strong basis for overclocking.
 
Kaiju said:
Also reset the battery and CMOS jumper for 10 minutes, not just for a few seconds to drain the mobo and give your northbridge some active cooling!
Click to expand...

WTF ! 10minutes ?

1.) Remove mains power via lead or switch on PSU
2.) Hit the power switch a few times sometimes you see the fans spin from the residual charge from the PSU. Once you see no leds / fans spinning you know you're good 2go.
3.) Switch CMOS jumper
4.) Wait ? - dont need to wait
etc etc
 
Subliminal Aura said:
WTF ! 10minutes
Click to expand...
It doesn't have to be exactly 10 minutes you muppet!

You need to drain the mobo of all its power though and to be on the safe side, 10 minutes is ample enough to get the job done.
 
Kaiju said:
It doesn't have to be exactly 10 minutes you muppet!

You need to drain the mobo of all its power though and to be on the safe side, 10 minutes is ample enough to get the job done.
Click to expand...


thut thut read my post as highlighted in bold - the quick way to drain the power. Its upto you if you want to wait 10 minutes like a n00b.
 
Subliminal Aura said:
thut thut read my post as highlighted in bold - the quick way to drain the power. Its upto you if you want to wait 10 minutes like a n00b.
Click to expand...
Hardly. If you wait 10 minutes, you can go make a cuppa. ;)
 
Subliminal Aura said:
thut thut read my post as highlighted in bold - the quick way to drain the power. Its upto you if you want to wait 10 minutes like a n00b.
Click to expand...

Can I recommend "How to Win Friends and Influence People" by Dale Carnegie?

How about;

Subliminal Aura said:
@Kaiju - what you suggested is the official way to do it and you won't go wrong like that. I've found that you can skip the 10 minute wait by cycling the power button a few times with the CMOS reset jumper in the reset position. This seems to work just as well and it's much quicker. I'm pretty sure it's not possible to damage the BIOS by doing this.

Why not try it next time you need to do a full reset?
Click to expand...

I have to admit I always wait the 10 minutes because it's an excellent opportunity to make a cup of coffee and grab a biscuit. I find it also lets everything cool off and I seem to have a much better chance of restarting the system from cool, than from very hot.
 
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