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***The Official E7200 Overclocking Thread***

I am still waiting for my new stuff to arrive.

Would 9x400Mhz = [email protected] DDR2-800@1:1 be a reasonable speed to start with using watercooling?

Or does it work better if I go in smaller steps?

You should be able to get [email protected] I reckon, especially with water cooling.

If it's a good set up you could expect to reach 4ghz if your ram will do 421mhz.
 
You should be able to get [email protected] I reckon, especially with water cooling.

If it's a good set up you could expect to reach 4ghz if your ram will do 421mhz.
Lets hope so, I will get OCZ Platinum2 DDR2-800 4-4-4-15 which according to reviews can do up to 500Mhz.

I can't wait to play around with a E7200 but I have to wait for the mobo that is out of stock :(
 
Just ordered one of these as an upgrade from my Opteron 180 (@2.6GHz).

Should be arriving tomorrow. I'll let you know how I get on..
 
Finally my order is sent out, I picked a Abit IP35-E that was not available anymore so I changed it to a MSI P35 Neo2-FR so I think I will be spending the weekend building my rig and seeing if I can get anywhere close to 4Ghz.
 
Gone straight in at 3.6GHz.

Not sure why there's the discrepency between CPU-Z and Real Temp, but it's looking quite promising :)

e72003800um4.jpg


Although got a stuck temp diode from the looks of it. :(
 
Put my system together last night and after repairing Windows XP jumped straight to overclocking :p

I first tried 400Mhz FSB with a low multi to see if the mobo was stable which it was straight away.

Next I jumped to 9x400 = 3600Mhz with 1.4V BIOS (1.384V real) and it ran Orthos fine for 15 minutes, I then increased to 3800Mhz @ 1.4V but it failed Orthos straight away, so I increased the voltage to 1.45V BIOS and it ran Orthos fine for 15 minutes, further testing will be done this weekend.

But the temps looked very high and different apps showed different temps, which is the correct one or what program is most accurate?
And is 1.45V the max voltage I can use to keep the CPU alive for longer than a year?

speedfaniu6.jpg
 
Personally, 1.45V is the most I would be comfortable with putting through the chip on a long-term basis.

As for temps, I would use RealTemp

Congrats on the clock btw
 
I've got to 3.8GHz.

Had to up the VCore to 1.4 for Orthos, though, which I'm not too happy about. Even though the 'real' VCore (as shown in Windows) is about 1.375.

Will try mucking around with the HTT and NB voltages when I get home, to see if i can get it stable with a lower VCore.
 
The thing I find strange is that it did not matter if I ran the fan on my radiator at 7V or 12V as the CPU temperature did not change at all, when going from idle to load the temperature instantly jumps 30C and as soon as I stop loading it drops instantly :confused:
 
Which program are you using to read temps?

To me, a ΔT that large would indicate either an improper mounting or a funky temp. sensor.
 
I used Speedfan, see the pic above but tonight I will try CoreTemp and realtemp to see if that gives more info as to what the temp is.

I don't think the mounting is bad as it is a smallish waterblock and I can see it is correctly installed, the only thing that might be a problem is that I used too much Arctic Silver and that it takes a while to set or there is still a lot of air trapped in my radiator.

Can Arctic Silver still be used after 4 years or does it degrade?
 
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Annoying as my previous CPU was a AMD X2-3800+ that ran ~40C under load, seeing temps >70C gives me the creeps but I have been looking on the web for some more info and it might be the fact that the die is soo small that they can't be cooled effectively and that the heatspreader is glued on causing a bad contact.

Looking at different sites I get the idea that as long as the temp is more than 25C from TjMax it is fine, I think I will test some more and then just not monitor the temp anymore and do nothing as long as it is stable.
 
@wolvers69, what temp does your CPU run at under Prime load and with what voltage?

[edit] Did some more testing and [email protected] wasn't quite Orthos stable as it failed consistantly after ~3 minutes but after upping the Vcore to 1.4625V it is stable for 2 hours now [edit]
 
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Currently running 3.8ghz(400x9.5) with 1.368vcore(load in cpuz), temps with real temp are;

core 1 - 60c
core 2 - 54c

I don't believe the sensor on core 2 is right though as it didn't move at all when I did the low vcore test.
 
Currently running 3.8ghz(400x9.5) with 1.368vcore(load in cpuz), temps with real temp are;

core 1 - 60c
core 2 - 54c

I don't believe the sensor on core 2 is right though as it didn't move at all when I did the low vcore test.
My CPU temp is also ~60C with Orthos Small FFT's, only difference is that my CPU needs 1.44V real to be Orthos stable.
 
E7200 @ 3.04Ghz currently, 325x9.5
1.1325 VID
1.1125 Vcore in Bios
1.072 under load in windows

Core1=42
Core2=39

Not sure whether these are the right temps, i RMAd the chip to OcUK last week as one sensor didnt move from 32' whilst the other loaded, it came back to me saying that both sensors do work which they do now. I might reseat my TRUE later to see if temps change.
 
Have a the following components:

GA-P35-DS3L mobo
Intel Core 2 Duo E7200
Corsair Memory TWIN2X2048-6400C4 2x1GB
Xigmatek HDT-S1283 heatsink & fan

Have gone straight in at 3.8ghz

CPU 9.5x
Frequency 401mhz
Memory Multiplier 2.0
1.37500 Vcore

Is it usual for just one core to fail when stressing with orthos, and after 6 hours of running fine? My stress test has been running for just over 6 hours and then one of the cores failed...

FATAL ERROR:Final result was B6BBFE7B, expected: ECA55A45.
Hardware failure detected, consult stress.txt file
Torture Test ran for 6 hours, 2 minutes 31 seconds - 1 errors, 0 warnings.
Execution halted.
 
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