***The Official Guitar Thread***

Mock up of the guitar, which I will call "Dune" I think :D I still need to cut the fretboard to final size (and I have another fretboard too :D) plus shape, etc but I think this should look decent.

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I have black tuners too but they won't sit properly.
 
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I've ordered the next set of parts for the guitar (530mm truss rod!), but also two different nuts with different string spacings. I'll try out the stat to get a feel for the spacing and then use that nut for the guitar. I've also ordered a selection of 7-string sets due to companies not putting their string lengths and taper points on the sets, it's impossible to know if the string will reach the locking tuners of a longer 28.625" scale guitar, although mine will have a short headstock it's still a concern. I've ordered the following sets:
* D'Addio XL 9-54
* Elixir Optiweb 10-59
* EB Paradigm 10-62

Currently the strat has EB super slinkies with 8-gauge on :D so if they don't fit, I can either mix and match or simply switch the set to the 25.5" strat for some drop tuning.
 
I know. I doubt I'll get around to playing most of the music I have piled up. That Boccherini and Ponce stuff will also be going at some point...

However, I'll be hanging onto my Dowland and Campion lute music as I still play that occasionally!
 
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Renaissance stuff sounds great..I've not listened to enough to have any great opinion but I love Frog Galliard...re fixing the left hand, I posted a video on classicalguitardelcamp forum ages ago, they had an exact name for the problem (hand/fingers slanted, not perpendicular to the fretboard, something like an over procastinated ulnar :p!) and I still play the same
was only reminded of the left hand thing watching this guy...slanted fingers, pinky tucked in when not in use etc, Yngwie does all that too
my point? dunno :D

 
Currently writing a program to help work out the best spot for my pickups in the build as I will need to take a router to the body very shortly.

It already works out the frets, calculates the each string length for fretting and frequencies using the open string tuning to uncover the string mass and tension without needing to measure those. It show (as all guitars with non-microtonal frets) the variation of based on the string spacing (a B1 7th string for example) will have fractionally different length to the D3 4th string for each fret. That's normal and the worse it gets with the difference between the bridge and nut string spacing. It seems to check out against to some of the known web calculators (to about 0.01mm) such as fretfind2d.

The next step is working out the string displacement based on my usual picking position with the hand on the bridge (about 10cm from the bridge).

Then I will work out the frequency response for each square millimetre of the space between the bridge and neck where the pickups could be positioned. It should then show me how much fundamental tone vs harmonic etc for each fret for each string.
I can then try to find the best position for the pickups based on the string vibrations that would be present within their magnetic flux. It should look like a heat map when displayed visually.

At a later date I'll add sympathetic harmonics (where you strike a string and that note then causes other strings to 'ring' as it so happens to be a harmonic.

Lots of complex calculations but for me it's also a learning for building the guitar too.

The guitar, after this next couple of steps will actually look like a Minecraft design :D After that it will become smoother shaped etc. I can then string up the guitar (no frets) if I temporarily install the hardware.
 
Shaping template iteration #1
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There's a few improvements I could make:
* top right carve could be a little smaller, it's a decent fit between the legs but could be smaller - but at the same time it sits upright without needing a stand :D
*mid left access to the bottom of the fretboard/neck could do with a little more access.
* depth (thickness of guitar) could do with being reduced - this will happen as I will be taking about 20mm any off that.. and this is still over the thickness of a strat. It could be reduced further or even a belly cut :)
 
Sorry for the wood pics.. getting all excited.

Nothing says 'pooping bricks' and growing a pair when you're cutting and shaping a unique £100+ piece of top wood with £50 of alder, so this is it before it's glue up.. on Saturday.. and currently it has 14 clamps on it as I have to wait until tomorrow night to remove the clamps.. The neck has been tapered to the fretboard (currently sat off guitar).

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Here it's oversized and not glued/aligned but it is going to look epic (in my own humble opinion). Now.. I just have to pinpoint where I want my pickups.. as that's the next step whilst the face is flat.. then it's fretboard time..

I've even had to bring this inside as the garage is cold enough the glue starts congealing. Inside it sits above 15 degC.
 
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Small update. Just starting to feel the size of a 28.625" scale! I've cut the fretboard so next is the tuner, glueing up the fretboard and I hope to have the strings on next week as I bring it up to tension. At that point I can hear it acoustically and even (with a bit of adhoc electronics) wire up the pickups but no frets installed yet. That will come later once it's glued up.

It feels big compared to the standard strat 25.5" scale where the open string on the strat is equivalent to barred cords at the 3rd fret on a 28.5" scale. Certainly will take some getting used it. Currently it's a bit of a mass but after it's had the strings and all is ok, the plan is to start the carving, a proper cleanup, the electronics, the neck, the frets etc and finally douse in danish oil.

LwP3Y1C.jpg
 
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That top looks lovely, how are you planning to finish it? Any stains? It's gonna be a stunner if nothing else when it's done!
 
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Dup said:
That top looks lovely, how are you planning to finish it? Any stains? It's gonna be a stunner if nothing else when it's done!
Click to expand...

Just straight danish oil, I’ll probably do a 50/50 blend danish/white spirit for the first coat so it penetrates deeper. That should help bring out the colours - the finish will darken the top slightly.

I’m sort of reluctant to stain the wood, although a stain followed by naptha/meth wipe/wash on the first coat is how they get the colours to pop. It removes some of the stain but that works to it’s advantage.
I may have todo something with the alder body but it will just drink the oil. Then sand back the raised grain and more coats.
I’m not looking for a rock hard shine coat, and any dings can simply be re-oiled.

In terms of carves, it has a lot of capacity for carves given the flame maple is 20mm thick. The alder is 45mm so at the moment it's 65mm which is quite chunky and heavy allowing some options for carves. I'm also aware that the top has a natural chequer patter - the flame in one direction and the grain in the other. The flame goes right through (the other side looks epic too). So when I carve the flame structures and grain shouldn't change too much when you cut through the wood (I've done this with Birdseye for knife handles and the structures change as you cut through the layers).

Probably easier with pictures.This is interesting due to the flutes coming from the lobes:
oMkdkoa.png


So not entirely like this - but some ideas. Above the bridge I'll have a wrist carve like the strat. Emphasis is on comfort sitting/standing.

One good thing is it’s body size on the playing position. I feel hunched over with the strat, where this doesn’t require a rigid upright back, it isn’t as hunched over. Only issue is it wont fit a case easily.
 
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