• Competitor rules

    Please remember that any mention of competitors, hinting at competitors or offering to provide details of competitors will result in an account suspension. The full rules can be found under the 'Terms and Rules' link in the bottom right corner of your screen. Just don't mention competitors in any way, shape or form and you'll be OK.

The R9 Nano Fiji Owners Thread

Just crashed again on far cry primal, stops putting anything out to the screen.
I think it's my GPU as I can still here sound of my headphones (I can't tell if it's stuck because I'm not sure what I should be hearing)
Think the heat may be causing instability? I've tried asking for help speccing a liquid cool loop here https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18720964

use these settings


So I overclocked a bit and it likes it!

-42 core volt
+21% power limit
1050 gpu clock.

76c at 56% fan. :)
 
Crashed twice now running far cry primal, here was my settings:

Was gpu hitting 84 degree according to CAM so turned the clock down to 1010 just so it would give the card some relief. Any idea where to go?

Manually set the fan profile as higher and get rid of the overclock initially I say. If it's stable then tweak from there.
 
Is nano a fury x in a smaller card but with a fan?

Or is it a slower card

It is a Fury X in specs but has a lower TDP. So reaching Fury X speeds is possible but the cooling will find it hard to cope at stock voltages without seriously ramping up the fan speed. Setting negative voltage equals less heat and lower fan speeds.

My own R9 Nano will reach 1050 core without throttling with the following settings in Witcher 3 at 4K.

-62Mv
+50% Power Limits
70% Fan (unbearable IMHO)

Some games and benches require a more bearable fan speed of ~56% and lower power limits but Witcher 3 is my go to test for GPU stability.
 
Is nano a fury x in a smaller card but with a fan?

Or is it a slower card

Is an aircooled FuryX. With smaller TDP.
But the latter doesn affect perfomance when you get to FuryX speeds.
I have mine watercooled and works so nicely that havent bothered to find its limits.
1080/545 with negative power is good enough. I have freesync also so 1-2 fps arent major issue.
Is it nice card? Yes. TW Attila runs much better now compared to 295x2 @1100
 
If you watercool it surely your then at the price level of a furyx though?

I imagine it will depend on your circumstances. If you already have a custom loop then throwing a block on works out few quid cheaper, more so with the deals that have happen here and ther recently on the nano.

On Air its still a solid card but needs some adjustment as the stock profiles leads to throttling so the core will generally run around the 900-950 Mhz mark in most cases.

Under water you can push the nano further, but the Fury X will still on average it seems be able to overclock higher then a Nano can, I expect thanks to having a better power delivery system.
 
When I push the core up and reach instability, guides say to put the voltage up. Now with the nano you guys say put it down, how did you know to do that? And if it was water cooled do you still think it would be negative voltage?
 
Yeah the Nanos basically just a Fury X with 50MHz lower on the core (but you can easily knock the 50MHz back on), and a fan instead of an AIO, and a single power connector instead of 2x.
 
Last edited:
When I push the core up and reach instability, guides say to put the voltage up. Now with the nano you guys say put it down, how did you know to do that? And if it was water cooled do you still think it would be negative voltage?

Its all trial and error bud. Every card is different. There have been some information here and on other forums undervolting the card at times may help to stabilise things. The worst that can happen is you waste some time undervolting and find it does nothing.

Watercooled will just take away the heat aspect. Mine under water I still undervolt it although it does not work at the very high end for overclocking (1120 +) undervolting seems to work well up to 1100 mark for myself.
 
When I push the core up and reach instability, guides say to put the voltage up. Now with the nano you guys say put it down, how did you know to do that? And if it was water cooled do you still think it would be negative voltage?

When you overvolt a Nano GPU it will reach TDP limits much sooner and starts to throttle quite considerably. The way to negate this is to find how low you can go on the volts and remain stable. This gives you more headroom before TDP limit is reached.

With a Nano the extra performance comes from preventing throttling due to the low TDP limits, not by boosting the core clocks and adding voltage. Default clocks on an R9 Nano are 1000MHz but it will throttle to ~900 or even less. Stop that throttling and you get 10%+ extra performance.
 
Its all trial and error bud. Every card is different. There have been some information here and on other forums undervolting the card at times may help to stabilise things. The worst that can happen is you waste some time undervolting and find it does nothing.

Watercooled will just take away the heat aspect. Mine under water I still undervolt it although it does not work at the very high end for overclocking (1120 +) undervolting seems to work well up to 1100 mark for myself.


Could you tell me please what are your settings for 1100?
 
Could you tell me please what are your settings for 1100?

Posted my settings back in reply #90

1075 Mhz / +50% power target / -12mv (I undervolt the card)
1085 Mhz / +50% Power target / 0mv
1100 Mhz / +50% Power target/ + 6mv
1110 Mhz / +50% power target / +18mv
1120 Mhz / +50% power target / +24 mv
1130 Mhz / +50% power target / +36 mv
1140 Mhz / + 50% power target / +48 mv

Not tired to go any further then that. On occasions I do game on this machine I use 1075 Mhz Which MSI afterburner keeps defaulting to when the PC turns on or 1100 Mhz with the notch up in voltage. Seems stable in benchmarks and games I play bar the 1130 and 1140 result however.
 
worried about my nano, just crashed at 73 degree.
Had my rad out that cools my CPU to swap the fan direction over (other thread suggested i was blowing warm air onto my gpu) now I've got weird squares on my screen at idle 41 degree and steadily rising temp. Also getting occasional thin horizontal white line flashing on my second screen.
totally stock clock when crashed and still is now.





is it broke?
 
Hang on, to add to my previous post - opened MSI afterburner to check why my fan sounded so fast and realized its applied an old overclock (think i had a setting turned on in profiles) so me testing it at stock clock never happened because afterburner put the overclock back on when i launched the game.
I've turned off the automatic profiles management and reset my overclock to default. Weird boxes have disappeared off my screen so thats a positive.
 
Hang on, to add to my previous post - opened MSI afterburner to check why my fan sounded so fast and realized its applied an old overclock (think i had a setting turned on in profiles) so me testing it at stock clock never happened because afterburner put the overclock back on when i launched the game.
I've turned off the automatic profiles management and reset my overclock to default. Weird boxes have disappeared off my screen so thats a positive.

Try the settings I proposed few posts ago. Also raise the memory to 550 with those. You will see that any coil whine will disappear, the card also runs cooler, and is more stable with the overclock.

The above settings eliminated completely the issue I had with DX9 games (WOT/WOWS) also. (never had issues with DX10/11/Mantle games)
 
Back
Top Bottom