The time came

[TW]Fox;18644515 said:
It doesnt cover pre-existing faults though, so what method of getting them to pay exists other than fraud?

You cant buy a car cheap because it has a fault, get a warranty with the car, and then claim on the warranty for the fault!

The fault didn't become apparent until I was half way home.

I know you're not that stupid, so you're just trying to be smart about it. Stop making mountains out of molehills.
 
The fault didn't become apparent until I was half way home.

No Mike, you've already told us the car was priced the way it was because of the fault:

The car was cheap because the de-phaser pulley needs doing

Otherwise you could have simply turned around, taken it back and had the dealer pay for fixing it!

I know you're not that stupid, so you're just trying to be smart about it. Stop making mountains out of molehills.

I'm not - it's just a shame to see what was a promising new start for you turn out to be more of the same rubbish BS.
 
Dephaser pulleys don't just suddenly go. They get worse over time. How come you didn't notice it on the test drive?

He did, he's just backtracking so it doesnt look like he's going to try and claim on the warranty for a pre-existing fault that was both present at time of purchase *and* part of the reason for the keen price.
 
End result, it will need belts, pulley, likely some other work, and atleast 2 tyres. Done properly your looking at £1000. This means under £3500 for a fully sorted 182.

This would have still been a good buy, its just a shame that typical MikeHiow BS has turned it into a saga of lies and arguments.

Shame really.
 
End result, it will need belts, pulley, likely some other work, and atleast 2 tyres. Done properly your looking at £1000. This means under £3500 for a fully sorted 182.

This would have still been a good buy, its just a shame that typical MikeHiow BS has turned it into a saga of lies and arguments.

Shame really.

£3,500 for a fully sorted 130k mile 182 doesn't seem like particularly good value to me.
 
Sigh. And to think the first couple of pages had me thinking "Wow, has Mike finally done something right?". Do yourself a favour Mike and cut down on the usual lies and suggested fraud, especially when people in the forums here are getting you interviews for work.
 
End result, it will need belts, pulley, likely some other work, and atleast 2 tyres. Done properly your looking at £1000. This means under £3500 for a fully sorted 182.

To be fair he does plan on doing the work himself. The parts alone don't come to a grand, do they?
 
No, like I've said, the parts come to £380 without any warranty involvement.

[TW]Fox said:
He did, he's just backtracking.
Not quite, that statement was an answer rather than an update ;)

Look, I'm not that fussed about the warranty, if they accept the claim then it's a bonus, if not then it's not that expensive anyway.

Those who wish to quote expensive dealer prices because they need to justify themselves spending lots of money on having the job done can laugh at me if it doesn't work, but until then I've explained why it is a specialist tool job and not a specialist garage job several times - it does require going in to the job educated rather than blind, mind.
 
To be fair he does plan on doing the work himself. The parts alone don't come to a grand, do they?

Parts should come in at about £400ish. Maybe a bit less.

As we've all said before though, it's really not a job that should be carried out by anyone other than a specialist. Even a lot of main dealers won't attempt a cambelt change!
 
As we've all said before though, it's really not a job that should be carried out by anyone other than a specialist. Even a lot of main dealers won't attempt a cambelt change!

Thats because the specialists and main dealers use Tippex, Mike's cheap mechanic said so!
 
Who've you spoken to on CS about DIY'ing it?

You'll need the 3 tools iirc to do it properly (crank pin, cam locking tool and pully locking tool)

There's a pretty specific procedure to follow to ensure that you don't mess up the timing.

tbh as long as you actually have spoken to any of the reputable specialists about this and have all the tools and time then you should be ok.

As said, Renault book time for this job is 8 hours, specialists will do it quicker but it's generally a pig of a job.

You've got the timing to worry about as well as poor access in the engine bay, easiest way to do it is to keep dropping/raising the engine to get to where you need to.

Be very very careful! Oh an incase it wasn't a joke by someone above, do not use tippex under any circumstances to try and mark positions, it doesn't work.

http://www.cliosport.net/forum/show...mbelt-change&p=7154278&viewfull=1#post7154278

Oh and you will also need camshaft end caps as they need replacing after you use the locking tools. Depending on what cam belt kit you have they will be included.
 
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It's not an easy job, but the result is a job that takes a long time, not one that cannot be done. It is a similar story for most VVT Renault engines.
 
Who've you spoken to on CS about DIY'ing it?

You'll need the 3 tools iirc to do it properly (crank pin, cam locking tool and pully locking tool)

There's a pretty specific procedure to follow to ensure that you don't mess up the timing.

tbh as long as you actually have spoken to any of the reputable specialists about this and have all the tools and time then you should be ok.

As said, Renault book time for this job is 8 hours, specialists will do it quicker but it's generally a pig of a job.

You've got the timing to worry about as well as poor access in the engine bay, easiest way to do it is to keep dropping/raising the engine to get to where you need to.

Be very very careful!

Fred@BTM and in more detail with sideways danny. Their explanation ties up perfectly with aforementioned friend who has done several and is who I will be borrowing the tools from (and who I'll be calling if I have any problems :D )

I also have someone who works at the local Renault dealer obtaining me the relevant parts of Renault's workshop manual for clarification.

Rest assured, I'm not jumping into this thinking "ah, it's just a cambelt" - I've done my research when I originally looked at the local 172 with a snapped cambelt.

Heard loads of problems when they have attempted it too, almost all have to go back for a knocking dephaser

I often wonder if some of these stories are manufactured by one of these specialists, I mean a lot of them seem to be "had a customer come in today for me to sort the timing out after xxxxx hashed the job".

My friend has done three de-phaser pulleys now and a few more cambelts, not one has had an issue.
 
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