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The Turing RTX 2080 Ti Owners Thread

Thanks for clarifying that point, i had questioned if the gain was worth the risk and from your response i am happy to leave the Bios as it is.

Weird. I thought for a 2080Ti on water, flashing the 380W BIOS was a no-brainer as you can get the clocks to stay higher as temps no longer play a part in the boost process.

I got consistently higher clocks but couldn't handle the louder fans, and definitely got better FPS using the 380W BIOS. Only switched back to the original BIOS as it was a lot quieter on air and TBF, even a lightly OC'd 2080Ti is no slouch.
 
Odd, mine are very quiet even at 90% (Gaming OC)

Weird, they're almost identical cards, though yours has the higher boost. As mentioned my case is very crowded so the general airflow might be the issue -

pyMsPo0.jpg

I have my push fans (image top), radiator and then pull fans (coloured stripes over the gfx card), about 1cm of clearance then the Palit Dual. Am wondering if I should just get rid of the 'pull' fans entirely, especially as they're pretty terrible fans by all accounts. So colourful though...
 
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Weird. I thought for a 2080Ti on water, flashing the 380W BIOS was a no-brainer as you can get the clocks to stay higher as temps no longer play a part in the boost process.

I got consistently higher clocks but couldn't handle the louder fans, and definitely got better FPS using the 380W BIOS. Only switched back to the original BIOS as it was a lot quieter on air and TBF, even a lightly OC'd 2080Ti is no slouch.

My main reason for water was the noise, the Ventus fans would scream at me, with that not being the case anymore and being over the moon with the performance as it is i will do my best to keep away from the power limit Bios, that being said, i am weak and have no self control and will probably dip in for a test at some point.
 
My main reason for water was the noise, the Ventus fans would scream at me, with that not being the case anymore and being over the moon with the performance as it is i will do my best to keep away from the power limit Bios, that being said, i am weak and have no self control and will probably dip in for a test at some point.

Just out of interest, is it easy to update to the 380w bios? Can you just go to the Galax site and install it like you would on your own cards site?
 
My main reason for water was the noise, the Ventus fans would scream at me, with that not being the case anymore and being over the moon with the performance as it is i will do my best to keep away from the power limit Bios, that being said, i am weak and have no self control and will probably dip in for a test at some point.

Just out of interest, is it easy to update to the 380w bios? Can you just go to the Galax site and install it like you would on your own cards site?
 
I put my evga black under water and immediately flashed it to the palit bios with a higher power limit, its a no brainer. Those saying there's no gains. I went from 1800mhz core and 8000mhz ram to a solid 2155 mhz and 8450mhz ram, hits around 60.c full load
 
Weird. I thought for a 2080Ti on water, flashing the 380W BIOS was a no-brainer as you can get the clocks to stay higher as temps no longer play a part in the boost process.

I got consistently higher clocks but couldn't handle the louder fans, and definitely got better FPS using the 380W BIOS. Only switched back to the original BIOS as it was a lot quieter on air and TBF, even a lightly OC'd 2080Ti is no slouch.

Just out of interest, is it easy to update to the 380w bios? Can you just go to the Galax site and install it like you would on your own cards site?

Sorry for the triple post I was trying to send to you!

Thanks,
 
Just out of interest, is it easy to update to the 380w bios? Can you just go to the Galax site and install it like you would on your own cards site?
You use nvflash a program that uses command lines, it's easy but you need to know if you have an A chip or a non A chip.
From there your choice is either huge if its an A chip or very very limited if its not.
To find out if its an a chip look up your card on techpowerup
Or tell me and I'll look it up for you.
The go to super bios they say it's the zotac amp extreme bios
 
Just out of interest, is it easy to update to the 380w bios? Can you just go to the Galax site and install it like you would on your own cards site?

Sorry for the triple post I was trying to send to you!

Thanks,

For mine there is no official MSI bios so i would need to ensure i used the correct reference bios, this is where my reluctance to dive in stems from. Would rather be safe than sorry.
 
You use nvflash a program that uses command lines, it's easy but you need to know if you have an A chip or a non A chip.
From there your choice is either huge if its an A chip or very very limited if its not.
To find out if its an a chip look up your card on techpowerup
Or tell me and I'll look it up for you.
The go to super bios they say it's the zotac amp extreme bios

For mine there is no official MSI bios so i would need to ensure i used the correct reference bios, this is where my reluctance to dive in stems from. Would rather be safe than sorry.

Yeah I am in the same boat. I wouldn't mind finding out what it was like though!

I have the Palit Gaming Pro OC 2080 ti under water. Its got the 126% 330w (i think) bios on it at the moment.
 
Weird, they're almost identical cards, though yours has the higher boost. As mentioned my case is very crowded so the general airflow might be the issue -

pyMsPo0.jpg

I have my push fans (image top), radiator and then pull fans (coloured stripes over the gfx card), about 1cm of clearance then the Palit Dual. Am wondering if I shoauld just get rid of the 'pull' fans entirely, especially as they're pretty terrible fans by all accounts. So colourful though...

Yeah something is going on, same cooler and fans as my model!
 
Just out of interest, is it easy to update to the 380w bios? Can you just go to the Galax site and install it like you would on your own cards site?

Sorry for the triple post I was trying to send to you!

Thanks,

Yep, dead easy, exactly as Illuminist said. Just backup the original BIOS before flashing to the new one in case you decide to revert back. Plenty of NVFlash command guides out there online.

I could get rock solid 2100+/8000 on air but it was a bit loud and I tend not to game with headphones on that much, hence I reverted back to the original BIOS and a lower OC.

If I was running it on water I'd still be using the 380W BIOS.
 
Yep, dead easy, exactly as Illuminist said. Just backup the original BIOS before flashing to the new one in case you decide to revert back. Plenty of NVFlash command guides out there online.

I could get rock solid 2100+/8000 on air but it was a bit loud and I tend not to game with headphones on that much, hence I reverted back to the original BIOS and a lower OC.

If I was running it on water I'd still be using the 380W BIOS.

Looks easy but scary AF lol

https://www.overclockersclub.com/guides/how_to_flash_rtx_bios/

I am already at 2000 Mhz so I dno if it's worth it for 5% increase
 
And you basically followed that short guide right?

No, I followed a much shorter one without photos, but the jist of it is the same.

If you're not comfortable doing it then I wouldn't bother but if you've managed to fit a water-block to one then I think you're missing a trick if you don't TBH.

FYI I used the Galax 380W.
 
£899 should have been the launch price! :)

Depends what card you are coming from, but the performance is great at 4K for me. Not as CPU intensive so the old 4770K should keep up.

My friend is using a 3770K with a 2080 and the performance is still pretty good.

I am coming from a 1080, If i can maintain founders perf it is not far off twice the fps. If i were to get a true doubling and not 90% you need about 2200mhz and 16gb memory i think.


It was either wait another month of saving £140 a month or pay £899 now and try to work with it. I also funny enough noticed the old 1080 twin fan really heated up my 4770k but this time all the hot air goes out the back.
 
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