***The Vapers Lounge*** 2.0

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pgi947 said:
Joyetech have only said smok tanks so far, but I know my wotofo serpent doesn't sit flush on any mod I own and neither does my derringer clone, so I'd assume both are longer then 4.6mm...

Just opted for dual spaced 5 wrap 3mm Clapton's in the twisted messes, much much better then closed coils, very dense clouds and flavor :)
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My Serpent fits flush on my DNA133. only mod I've used it on, and its not exactly an off the shelf mod
 
Sayso said:
My Wismec RX200 arrived today just pumping all my old builds with more WATTAGE.
The Aromiser V2 looks like it gets rid off all the faults with the V1 i will be getting an upgrade kit as soon as its released.
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Does that meant that there's an Aromamizer v3 coming out as the V2 has been out for months, that's the version that included the RTDA deck.
 
Frozennova said:
My Serpent fits flush on my DNA133. only mod I've used it on, and its not exactly an off the shelf mod
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I just know mine doesn't sit flush on my rx200, vs DNA200 or ipv4/d2. To be fair I may just have a dodgy tank as I've not seen any other complaints about it...
 
UKDTweak said:
The picture actually makes it appear worse than it is in the hand, but yeah if you want a good match, go with a Wotofo Serpant, even the paint finish matches lol
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How is the stout? I have an evic vtc mini and liked the look of the stout and can imagine it sits in the hand nicely that's the main reason I bought it, got a black Cleito to go with it so should look pretty smart too.

Been working in Lithuania for 2 weeks so been ordering loads of new stuff while I've been here so will be a treat when I get home to open it all!!

Wheres that drip tip for the serpent from?
 
The stout is a great fit in the hand and with a battery in it, it is a good weight, nice paint finish too, though i look after my mods so its not had any knocks as yet to test it lol

When i first got it the 510 was like a virgin, tight and a bit rough, but after screwing an atty on and off a few times it got better.

The battery door is a cool feature, works so well and you can swap out your battery in seconds.

The board is very similar to the VTC Mini though obviously the screen layout is a little different, it has the same options at the end of the day.
I have a Shockle 26650, 3500mAh cell and with a .5ohm single coil in the Serpent i get a few days use from one cell.

At the end of the day though, i would recommend the VTC Mini over the Stout, my Stout took a few days use to get the 510 smooth and until then it was a pain getting TC coils working too, just refused to work with SS wire, its been fine since though, but i dont think its worth the double price compared to the VTC Mini, build quality is about the same, options are the same, the only advantage the Stout has is in the higher mAh of the 26650's it uses and the screen is not as bright or easy to read as the VTC Mini.
 
The bigger battery was the main reason I got it to be fair, I seem to be a bit of a joyetech fanboy at the moment though as I have the vtc mini / Wismec presa 75 (mainly because the fire button is the whole front) and now the stout!
 
Any tips on preventing/cleaning crud that builds up on coils?

I've been vaping the vapour technologies line (chefs had them and they're real nice) but whilst this clapton in the subtank is running good i'm finding i'm having to change a perfectly good wick every 2 days because there's a built up of soot/gunk on the top outside of the coil that needs dry burned off.

Doesnt seem to affect the bottom, sides or inside, and the cotton isn't burning so i can only assume its caramelised sugar.

Any tips on removing it that doesnt require re-wicking constantly?
 
UKDTweak said:
My Serpent sits flush on my VF Stout and VTC Mini, not tried it on anything else.
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I'll have to dig mine back out and give it another blast.

adolf hamster said:
Any tips on preventing/cleaning crud that builds up on coils?

I've been vaping the vapour technologies line (chefs had them and they're real nice) but whilst this clapton in the subtank is running good i'm finding i'm having to change a perfectly good wick every 2 days because there's a built up of soot/gunk on the top outside of the coil that needs dry burned off.

Doesnt seem to affect the bottom, sides or inside, and the cotton isn't burning so i can only assume its caramelised sugar.

Any tips on removing it that doesnt require re-wicking constantly?
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Sweet liquids (can't remember the exact ingredient) tend to choke coils quite quickly, there is no real quick work around, just get it re-wicked as and when required :)
 
I like the serpent, good flavour from it but i find it weeps around the airflow control ring, like the crius and so many other tanks, and im not a fan of the juice control, i cant even see the juice channels in mine once the tank is screwed properly onto the base, but it is a good tank and you can fit some big coils in it, i had a 4mm ID coil in it before... nutts for a tank lol, Currently have a 3.5mm ID spaced coil and its going great on flavour.
 
I don't think I was building well enough in it tbh, always got a really airy vape. The juice control annoyed me too, I thought to be safe was to wind it all the way open, but all that did was disturb my wicking, in the end I just put it back in its box, though the talk of them here again along with seeing a good coiling and wicking video by Grimm on the serpent has peaked my interest again :p

A job for the weekend I reckon.
 
adolf hamster said:
Any tips on preventing/cleaning crud that builds up on coils?

I've been vaping the vapour technologies line (chefs had them and they're real nice) but whilst this clapton in the subtank is running good i'm finding i'm having to change a perfectly good wick every 2 days because there's a built up of soot/gunk on the top outside of the coil that needs dry burned off.

Doesnt seem to affect the bottom, sides or inside, and the cotton isn't burning so i can only assume its caramelised sugar.

Any tips on removing it that doesnt require re-wicking constantly?
Click to expand...

 
pgi947 said:
Joyetech have only said smok tanks so far, but I know my wotofo serpent doesn't sit flush on any mod I own and neither does my derringer clone, so I'd assume both are longer then 4.6mm...
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Seems the official Wismec line is pretty much their published warranty, where you're not covered for using any kit other than their own. Fairly standard, given there's no standard length of 510. I assume Joyetech's will be a carbon copy.

From talking around, it seems the problem comes from tanks sitting slightly above the top of the mod, which works nicely to avoid circular scratches and gouges in the finish, like my eVic and Curve 20w both now have.
Obviously people see the gap and screw tanks on too tightly, rather than gently until they just start to bind...
 
REF: Rewicking tips and tricks video... NO!!!!

He said himself that rapidly heating and cooling the coils make the metal weaker which is true.. so why heat up the coil and then run it under the tap! placing ANY electric items that has not been water proof all design to coupe with liquard is dangerous....

far too much effort..using a wire brush would just damage the surface area of your coils allowing them to collect more kurd.

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All I do is simple... remove the cotton... try burn till its red hot and blow... your see the flakes of the kurd blow away and repeat until its clean. Let the coil cool down naturally rather than rapidly heating and cooling the coil. IF needed bang it in an ultrasonic cleaner after for 5 mins and jobs done.
 
slinxy said:
All I do is simple... remove the cotton... try burn till its red hot and blow... your see the flakes of the kurd blow away and repeat until its clean. Let the coil cool down naturally rather than rapidly heating and cooling the coil. IF needed bang it in an ultrasonic cleaner after for 5 mins and jobs done.
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Exactly what I do too. Has served me well for years.
 
I used to dry burn Kanthal and even Ni200 (not recommend with ni200) and then rinse under a tap of cold water, would repeat a few times till coils clean, i had one kanthal build last me two months, in the end what killed it was me accidentally clipping a lead while cutting the tail off the wick... doh!
 
my builds last months... the only time I need to rebuild is when I have messed up the coil during rewicking or pulling out the cotton. Or when I fancy something different in the atty. OK, it doesn't help that a build in the atty could sit there for months on end without being used as other atties are being used instead.

I've only had one coil actually break on me and that was res/non res 32awg wire than suffered due to the fact that I sat on the mech mod and it was autofiring with an empty tank.

Claptons do say cleaner longer, but it varies on the build, juice and attie that is being used.
 
UKDTweak said:
I used to dry burn Kanthal and even Ni200 (not recommend with ni200) and then rinse under a tap of cold water, would repeat a few times till coils clean, i had one kanthal build last me two months, in the end what killed it was me accidentally clipping a lead while cutting the tail off the wick... doh!
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Exactly what I've done in the past. Providing you're not an absolute clutz it works fine.
 
So its just the juice then?

I've been removing wick, washing the juice, dry burning (have to get it wile hot to cook it off, nearly white) then air cooling, brushing off the dust with a toothbrush, repeating a couple of times, re wicking, then an 8min session in the ultrasonic with some milton to get rid of that "new cotton" taste then ready to go again.

Shame its just gonna have to be that way, at least the wire is lasting well just the wicks when i remove mostly still look mint, wish i didnt have to bin them (not enough to pull through easily once theyve been trimmed to fit)

Might do a re coil soon, get some ni200 clapton made up and try it, might do spaced see if that makes a difference.
 
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