Time.Sync.

OK I got more done but none of it was worth taking a photo of as it was small stuff that you can't really see. It's all fixed in with rivets now, and I have some more cutting to do tomorrow. That should be it for the metal work then.

So after cooking dinner and cleaning up I decided to have some fun.

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It works :D
 
I know I said no LEDs but the more I work on this case the more I realise just how special it is. It's like top end Inwin special tbh. Whoever designed it did not have a budget limit.

So I wanted something a little special in there. Giving it will all be pretty monotone. So I decided in the end to get this flow meter.

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Which just so happens to be RGB :) the only problem I faced was the case has no RGB controller (well it does, but not that you can connect anything to) and of course my X99 board doesn't either. Bit of a PITA, but I ended up settling on this.

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Which I can access in the storage area of the case to change the colour etc.

Of course then I need a way to connect it to the res (between the res and the pump)

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So all that left was a big sheet of acrylic.

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OK so I was probably overdoing it, but last night at 10pm I was still working lol. I decided it was time to remove the water cooling from the old school rig. I was a bit sad, but I've used it once. I can put an air cooler in there though, so will do that at some point.

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Do those black fittings look familiar? they should, as I bought some yesterday /facepalm. Maybe I should have done that first and taken full stock of the fittings I have (I reckon about 50 no jokes).

Good news was I also found a 90 (ffs). One is a rotary 90 10/8 and the other is just a basic 90. Just like the 90 I bought yesterday lmfao. Oh well, they are Bitspower Premium, so I wasn't complaining.
 
OK so stage one, metalwork, should now be finished or close to finished. I cut the cable management holes, and cut down the rad holder. Once painted the rad holder will become a permanent part of the case.

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I also smoothed down anything sticking out toward the top.

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And cut away a load of metal from the back that used to be there to hold in the PCIE duct thing.

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Then I set about the bottom. Too quickly it seems, as I have cut the hole too big. Thank god you won't see it, then.

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Coming up next - rig gets a bath.
 
Time to build the pump up.

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And then paint.

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Entertainment hah.

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OK so basically I need to let it dry, then put on another coat, then flip it over and repeat (there are parts I need it upside down to paint). The rad holders only need one more coat and they are done.
 
Thanks man. I almost fitted a 7" HDMI touch screen in the front, but I was 3mm short. It just won't fit, which is a shame. More ideas will no doubt come as time passes.
 
Second coat "right side up" is done. The rad carriers are now complete.

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Will give it 24 hours, then tomorrow turn it the other way and paint the top (well, it will be on the bottom when I paint it).
 
Yesterday I started planning the front panel cover (where the drives used to be). I have two power meters (electronic, red) so will be using those to display 5v and 12v. I also have the temp gauge (red). One thing I have wanted for ages though is a clock on my PC. When I am gaming I lose track of time, and there's no way of knowing the time without either turning around 180' or putting a clock on my desk. I tried overlays, but they rely on DX11 so of course the overlays do not work with DX12. So I decided to get this.

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Which will also go in the front panel. The front panel will end up resembling the panel in the car in Back To The Future, which is quite funny with this being the Time Sync. However, there is one last twist.. I gotta build it myself :D

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But hey, no pain no gain right?

I will be finishing up the paint tonight once I get back from the skate park.
 
Do you find you get brush stroke marks in the finish, or does it dry to a smooth even coat?

Edit: On mobile btw so i cant make it out either way, just curious.
 
Do you find you get brush stroke marks in the finish, or does it dry to a smooth even coat?

Edit: On mobile btw so i cant make it out either way, just curious.

If you have basic painting skills with Hammerite you won't see any brush marks, because once you put it on and feather it over it reacts, hiding all of the brush marks. That is why I initially chose it, as I have a long experience with it (painting bikes growing up as a kid).

It's all about the feathering. Put the paint down (not too much, that takes lots of practice) and then leave it for about ten seconds, then feather it over in the same direction. Then just leave it to do its thing.

TBH? 90% of what I have painted will not even be visible once the case is back together. It's literally the "frame" around the PC. So that is about all that will seem different, as the interior is going to be pretty radical.

Here. I thought I had uploaded this earlier on this forum but I guess I forgot (too much going on in my brain !).

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It has like a pearl sort of mixture in it, and what appears to be a very fine gold flake. That pic is the best portrayal of how it looks IRL IMO. It is very hard to capture exactly what it is you are seeing, like many paint effects.

Oh and remember with painting, never EVER try and get away with one coat. Also time in = results. Don't rush it. I will have about four days into this all told.
 
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If you have basic painting skills with Hammerite you won't see any brush marks, because once you put it on and feather it over it reacts, hiding all of the brush marks. That is why I initially chose it, as I have a long experience with it (painting bikes growing up as a kid).

It's all about the feathering. Put the paint down (not too much, that takes lots of practice) and then leave it for about ten seconds, then feather it over in the same direction. Then just leave it to do its thing.

TBH? 90% of what I have painted will not even be visible once the case is back together. It's literally the "frame" around the PC. So that is about all that will seem different, as the interior is going to be pretty radical.

Here. I thought I had uploaded this earlier on this forum but I guess I forgot (too much going on in my brain !).

okEnW3E.jpg

It has like a pearl sort of mixture in it, and what appears to be a very fine gold flake. That pic is the best portrayal of how it looks IRL IMO. It is very hard to capture exactly what it is you are seeing, like many paint effects.

Ah thats cool. I wasn't implying there were brush marks or anything, it was simple curiosity. :)

Glad to see it all coming along!
 
Ah thats cool. I wasn't implying there were brush marks or anything, it was simple curiosity.

You can always use some high grit finishing paper to get the perfect finish!

However, there is one last twist.. I gotta build it myself

But hey, no pain no gain right?

I will be finishing up the paint tonight once I get back from the skate park.

Looking good, where is this kit from? Wondering what you could swap out and display on it but generally it’s and interesting kit :)

About to start a new build so interested in new toys I could integrate.
 
China, on fleabay. I get 90% of my electronics from there now. They clone everything, from clocks to £2000 headphone amps lol.

Painting is finished now. I did not take any pics as there was no point. I will need to let it fully cure and harden now for a few days, but in the mean time I ordered these.

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They hold 200kg, so should be enough lol.
 
today I set about sorting out the IO panel with the USB etc. I decided to ditch Estata (as I broke it) FP audio and Firewire. I have never used any of those. So I made a small blanking panel and covered it with brushed black acrylic.

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Then I figured I would basically sort out the mess of cables coming from it. I have done solid, yet ugly, repairs on them twice. And it shows. So I figured I would cut out the ugly wiring, braid it black, then put it all back together.

Then I realised my entire soldering outfit was at my mother's /facepalm. It would cost me £30 to go over in a taxi and get it, or I could have it all brand new for about £40. So I ordered it (Prime)

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I needed some more of these, too.

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