Twin Turbo "Black Edition"

Have you seen the acrylic tubes by Barrow? They're 1mm OD (roughly the same as the fittings) and 10mm ID. Female G1/4 threaded at each end and available in a variety of sizes. Might fit nicely between your two graphics cards. Can't post you a link but I'm sure you can find them on the bay. I'm using sone on my project to go through the side panel from the rad into the case if bad pictures are of help :D
 
Cenedd said:
Have you seen the acrylic tubes by Barrow? They're 1mm OD (roughly the same as the fittings) and 10mm ID. Female G1/4 threaded at each end and available in a variety of sizes. Might fit nicely between your two graphics cards. Can't post you a link but I'm sure you can find them on the bay. I'm using sone on my project to go through the side panel from the rad into the case if bad pictures are of help :D
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I see what you mean, very nice but by the time I add to rotary male to male at the end of both 90s it cuts the length by over a half. Thats it goes directly vertically. Maybe if i go from Outlet to Inlet I could give it a go.

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Im still waiting for someone to bring Acrylic fittings to the table or Injection moulded clear plastic, ive seen a few but how nice would it be to see a double or triple 45 in acrylic with coloured O-rings.
I smell a croud fund... OCUK, ever thought about our own watercooling products ? haha
 
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You could do without:

1. Bitspower BP-MB90DRG14 at each end. Smallest but
or
2. Standard 90° male to females as shown in the far right of your pic and then male to male connectors. You can revolve the 90° where it screws into the tube.
or
3. Same as 2 but you could put them on the other way - 90 onto block, then male-to-male, then tube. You'd have to screw the 90s into the block with the tube on.

You say about acrylic fittings. That's sort of what I'm attempting - but not as advanced as revolving stuff. I can currently make G1/4 outside threaded acrylic that would join such a tube to the female thread of the 90° fitting. Have a look here. You just need some 13/10 acrylic and a G1/4 die. I'm trying to source some clear O-rings at the moment but in your case, a black one wouldn't show and the larger 18mm bore of the tube would stop the o-ring squishing out of the gap too.
 
Isn't it always?! You could get a slightly longer tube and either sand some off or cut and then sand it flat. If you cut much off, you'd need to tap it G1/4 again but it's easy to do. You can pick up a decent "1/4 x 19 BSP HSS-G Volkel Tap" fairly cheaply.

You can do it with 16/12 but to your own length and tapped but because it has a thinner wall, the 'shoulder' that the o-ring seals against (the flat end of the tube) isn't as wide so tends to squish the o-ring out of the gap. It does seal perfectly but isn't a solution you'd want to be providing someone else with as it could fail.
 
Managed to get some time to redo the tubing . top left pic is before hand.
Can see that the compression fitting doesn't go all the way down, using tygon tubing and the Alphacool just can't cut into it as much as Bitspower ones I've uses in the past- even they didn't screw all the way but did do more then alpha's. Fingers crossed when I leak test

 
The compression rings don't need to screw all the way down. They're just to apply a bit of clamping force to stop the tube coming off the barb. Too much could actually damage the tube and cause a leak - but we're talking extremes. As long as it's hand tight you should find that you can't pull the tube off.
 
managed to grab some quick snaps on my phone of the second Heatsink sitting within the Shroud to show it being cut down to fit as well as lining bolting mounts to get the shroud to be mated to the sink

 

woopa, got the video up. shot of the 2nd card which I messed up the port holes slightly yet got the mounting done better then the first.
come the GTX 1070 I should be getting it 100% haha
 
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Looks nice and neat. The ports as you say are a little off but they'd look a bit better if you sanded them smooth - the edges have chipped slightly when drilled. This is, of course, overly picky....but hopefully constructive :D
 
Cenedd said:
Looks nice and neat. The ports as you say are a little off but they'd look a bit better if you sanded them smooth - the edges have chipped slightly when drilled. This is, of course, overly picky....but hopefully constructive :D
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first one was much better :( will stick this on the bottom haha
going to find the half size bore hole drill bit for the next one i swear !!! haha
 
It looks good. I doubt you'd notice it if you weren't looking for it....it's just that, well, I'm looking for it because of the context. I give you advance permission to be critical of me when I get round to trying a delid of my SkyLake and to laugh when I break it :D
 
Cenedd said:
It looks good. I doubt you'd notice it if you weren't looking for it....it's just that, well, I'm looking for it because of the context. I give you advance permission to be critical of me when I get round to trying a delid of my SkyLake and to laugh when I break it :D
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its all good, when i did the first hole I straight away knew I forgot to compensate for the larger bore hole size and the port holes being close together. was in a rush which is a massive NO NO

on a side note, hoping to be able to have a loan of one of these board from Gigabyte so I can take some snap shots with a fully Gigabyte system. Currently theres an MSI board as it was the only board to be Black with Steel PCIe slots (needed for shipment) and LED happen to be a bonus

 
I've got the Z170X Gaming 7-EU and it's pretty good. The RGB LEDs and armoured DIMMs are a bonus - like the RGB LED strip headers on the board.
The only issue I've had with this board has been the BIOS. It has a habit of switching to the secondary bios if it fails a boot so you get a completely different set of settings applied and if you update the bios, you only update one. Ended up forcing single bios mode (switch on board) to get round it. Also, only certain versions of the bios were stable and it wasn't the most recent version....but this could all be because I'm doing RAID 0 on two M.2 SSDs which is a rather new feature. Tidy though....and fast :D
 
Had a few issues with that board, always turning off then on again when first powering up from a cold start- didnt even think it would be double Bios as I noticed sometimes it defaulted back.

Few high res snap shots of both the cards :D
Looking forward to seeing Galax/MSI blower ref cards taken apart for future planning :D









****
seems I can pick up All FE 1080's for £604.. having to wait a while though official vendor prices. really interesting to see the nvidia, vendor and retailer mark ups
then when a Yankie friend tells you they had a batch of 100 @ $650....
If the Brexit makes pc parts cheaper they have my vote hahaha
 
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More fittings arrived... Seems I'll have to rethink rad connection , bridge will fit from the bottom outlet to the top inlet (alpha blocks work more like CPU blocks) and I had thought it wouldn't so will be a tight fit to the rad

 
Some (Bitspower I think and maybe Koolance) do a 60 degree fitting but otherwise a double-45 should give you the wiggle room....for another 12 quid or so.
 
Parts came in today to allow me to connect the rad to the top cards outlet port and a few LEDs to connect to the Res, Vortex (white) and CPU (blue)

One annoying thing is the male to male rotary is a different grip texture to the rest, even though its Alphacool and part of the same series !!!! Grrrrr



Hoping with tightening of the Rad/fan mount screws will make the connection more inline with a right angle
 
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