Type R and VTEC owners

Ive looked around at what everyone says and the concensus is that they do on the whole eat oil (some dont) also the oil recommended is thin and so I guess burns off quickly,its nothing to worry about and just keep checking the oil once a week/fortnight.

Caining it in Vtec for large portions of time will also use up oil.


Thank you. It's going in for a service this week so hopefully a oil change will do it some good. It's on 192,000 so still going very strong.
 
I've a FN2 and it doesnt use a lot of oil. I bought a 1 litre top up at service 2 years ago and although i finished it off about August this year, the car doesn't need topping and its now service time again.

So 1 litre over about 14000 miles ... they dont all eat oil :)
 
Some do, some don't. My last DC5 used 1 litre every 500 miles, latest one doesn't use a drop. All depends on how they've been bedded in and serviced over their life. High oil use is usually the valve stem oil seals being knackered.
 
Changing between 5w30 and 5w40 makes a huge difference too, what are you running neil ,and do you even VTEC bro? :) That's pretty good going.

Some do, some don't. My last DC5 used 1 litre every 500 miles, latest one doesn't use a drop. All depends on how they've been bedded in and serviced over their life. High oil use is usually the valve stem oil seals being knackered.

Watched a bit of your vid earlier, what sort of best times were you running?
 
Changing between 5w30 and 5w40 makes a huge difference too, what are you running neil ,and do you even VTEC bro? :) That's pretty good going.



Watched a bit of your vid earlier, what sort of best times were you running?

1m24.5 IIRC, would have been into 1m23's but I got held up.

Watching the vid again I can see where I can make improvements, specifically going into Craner Curves and the first corner.
 
Everyone of the civ-info and type-r pages/FB groups all say the Eibach springs are a better ride than stock.

Plus with a proper geometry setup it will obviously turn/track better round bends.

Nah, but they're not really any worse than standard.

Mine with the springs /bolts and setup by someone who knew what they were doing handled excellently for the type of cad
 
Changing between 5w30 and 5w40 makes a huge difference too, what are you running neil ,and do you even VTEC bro? :) That's pretty good going.



Watched a bit of your vid earlier, what sort of best times were you running?

Hehehe yes i do Vtec and the limiters 500rpm up after a remap, its the group N ish map so lower Vtec and a bit more ooomph lower down. But still doesnt really get going till 5500rpm.

Its on Millers XF Longlife 5W40
 
I've had the pleasure of riding shotgun in a DC5, and see a few of them driving around, I'd loooooove to own one but at the prices they're at now, Its very doubtful I'll ever own one.

£7-9k seems the going rate? although I've seen some at 12k, I'd prefer closer to 7k tbh, which isn't a bad price at all but it all depends on how it's been maintained of course.
 
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£7-9k seems the going rate? although I've seen some at 12k, I'd prefer closer to 7k tbh, which isn't a bad price at all but it all depends on how it's been maintained of course.

Prices are all over the shop and sadly overinflated a lot of the time.

I'd love another one, but they are getting long in the tooth now and I need something reliable for carrying the family around in :(

£9k for a ropey high-mileage 15-year old car is just too extreme considering what else you can buy for that money. To get something low mileage, you need an even higher budget. I miss my DC5 every day though :(
 
I'd love another one, but they are getting long in the tooth now and I need something reliable for carrying the family around in :(

£9k for a ropey high-mileage 15-year old car is just too extreme considering what else you can buy for that money. To get something low mileage, you need an even higher budget. I miss my DC5 every day though :(

Don't get me started... :(
 
They are exceptional cars, there's no doubt about that. Mine isn't great on the road, it feels a little too pointy, a bit wallowy and I have steering wheel wobble at speed, which doesn't help the other two things! I'm putting that down to a few things:

- Aggressive geo setup.
- RS-R's don't seem to have stiff sidewalls.
- I think my CV joints are knackered as the wheels have been balanced twice yet I still get a wobble.

Also the O2 sensor needs replacing and the shifter cables are stretched/bent. It's going in to Performance Autoworks this weekend though for them to fix it all over the next few weeks. After that I may SORN the car till March.
 
How long have you had your current DC5? I was just looking into these cars yesterday and came across another thread where you mentioned they were too dear :p
 
How long have you had your current DC5? I was just looking into these cars yesterday and came across another thread where you mentioned they were too dear :p

I bought it about 6 weeks ago I think, picked it up a week last Friday.

They are too dear, but I only paid £4800 for mine.
 
Donington from Monday.



Damn you could not wish for better conditions, dry, cold and an empty track for the most part. Was that a book-a-track day?

All I would comment is your 2nd lap out actually looked the cleanest, hitting apex's etc, whereas afterwards it looked like your carrying too much speed into the chicane on dunlop straight which kills your speed midway through that chicane reducing speed on exit, couple of tenths there but on a whole it looks good, your using the curbs and really attacking and the car seems to have nice balance beyond grip, your not gonna go much quicker unless you move to a slick which actually spoils the fun typically.
 
Cheers. With Honda's On Track ran by Lotus On Track. Most bugger off home after lunch so it ends up quiet. I have another vid to upload which is a few runs bolted together with the best bits but I haven't got around to finish editing it yet. That one is straight off my GoPro.

Edit. I know I can go into Craners faster but that's a confidence thing
 
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I did have to spend some money to make it nice for the road. But I also spend a bit more, ie fitting coilovers and other things that a normal road car wouldn't have needed. I'd guess about £1250 or so to bring it to an acceptable standard.

Compare that with cars that have 30k more miles with similar mods listed at well over £8k I think I did alright.

Bumper is a bit yellow still as I didn't see the point in painting it, just had the lip and bonnet done. The seats could do with a wash and there are one or two little marks on the paintwork etc, but I'm happy with it. The money for doing all of that will pay for pads/tryes/track days.
 
Cheers. With Honda's On Track ran by Lotus On Track. Most bugger off home after lunch so it ends up quiet. I have another vid to upload which is a few runs bolted together with the best bits but I haven't got around to finish editing it yet. That one is straight off my GoPro.

Edit. I know I can go into Craners faster but that's a confidence thing

Craners is one of the biggest confidence corners on any track, you need balls. I start the day at around 100mph and build it up slowly towards 110-115mph. I've being a passenger though at over 130mph down through there, HOLD ON! :D

My mate took his 996 GT3 through, every time 116mph on the speedo, he did 118mph, exited backwards and stopped on the bit of tarmac normally where the marshal parks and made a nice job of his paint/wheels as he went through gravel trap. :D

My first eye opener of craners though was with Elliot (tax evader) on here in his CSL on cups around 120mph at the time, in comparison I was doing around 105mph in my CSL, it really is a corner to build upto as it takes huge confidence, if your brick it your always likely to end up off the black stuff.
 
It's the left hand kink as it goes properly down hill where I am lifting but I know I can probably go into 5th and use full throttle. Great challenge, will be nice to go again.
 
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