Vince's Repair Thread - (Console Repairs & Mods)

Vince said:
That's fine nowhere near mangled.. a couple of sticks would probably take me a few mins per stick... the trick is to be at about 415c, add a load of leaded solder and really get it mixed in then with the iron on the hole use the old solder sucker...

Also more flux that board isn't nearly fluxy enough...
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That's sickening indeed 2 minutes :o

Ah OK I must have a setting wrong somewhere as my iron only is going up to 350, I will have a look at that today and chuck on more flux, the video is super helpful thank you :D
 
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Vince said:
That's what I'm talking about... Good work my dude!! I see you went with the old roll of rape tactics. Solid tactic to be honest.
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Little help please, replaced the left stick on one controller, but it's still drifting left heavily, what else could be the culprit? I will resolder it again (first ever go) but looks OK ish?

 
Vince said:
I'll do a vid on my next no power console... Will remember to change audio source next time :D
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Thank you! Look forward to it.

Reading your other bits makes me wonder if I need a temp controlled iron now. I have 2 Antex irons as well as an Iroda gas powered iron. All are good, but none are temp controlled, and I’m wondering if that’s maybe making things more awkward for me than they ought to be…
 
Defy Belief said:
Little help please, replaced the left stick on one controller, but it's still drifting left heavily, what else could be the culprit? I will resolder it again (first ever go) but looks OK ish?

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Vince will likely better advise you, but if the right stick doesn’t drift, you could always try swapping them to rule out a dodgy one etc.
 
Armadillo said:
Controller probably needs calibrating. Sticks aren't all made equal which is why the controller is calibrated at the factory. Luckily dualsense can be calibrated at home now https://dualshock-tools.github.io/ instead of having to faff around finding a stick with the best match or using new stick+drift fix pcb to trim it up.
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Thanks for this, just looked and unfortunately appears to be a stick issue and not calibration :(

 
Defy Belief said:
That tool has now made the right one drift downwards to the right wtf :cry:
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There are probably some nice easy ways to tell what the issue is.. almost all normal buttons work by killing resistance on a line! Take a switch all the lines to buttons are like 10/15k lines and a button press pulls that to ground which is then detected by a chip which is how it knows a button has been pressed. These potentiometers work the same way albeit there are two variable resistors which are polled to determine the position based on the two resistance values.. measure the pots is a good starting place!!

If the audio worked in that vid last night I did talk about measuring pots before and trying to match them to factory calibration.
 
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Vince said:
There are probably some nice easy ways to tell what the issue is.. almost all normal buttons work by killing resistance on a line! Take a switch all the lines to buttons are like 10/15k lines and a button press pulls that to ground which is then detected by a chip which is how it knows a button has been pressed. These potentiometers work the same way albeit there are two variable resistors which are polled to determine the position based on the two resistance values.. measure the pots is a good starting place!!
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Forgive my dumbness, what do you mean by measure the pots? :confused:
 
Defy Belief said:
Forgive my dumbness, what do you mean by measure the pots? :confused:
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Multimeter is required to measure values. Out in London today working but I will do a vid showing how you can measure them.

Put simply it could be a dead resistor on the line pulling the pot low or you could have got a dodgy pot.
 
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